Rose Privée by L'Artisan Parfumeur
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7.6 / 10     83 RatingsRatingsRatings
Rose Privée is a popular perfume by L'Artisan Parfumeur for women and was released in 2015. The scent is floral-fresh. It was last marketed by Puig. Pronunciation
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Fragrance Notes

Basil, Lilac, Carnation, Hay, Magnolia, May rose absolute, Patchouli, Violet leaf

Ratings

Scent

7.6 (83 Ratings)

Longevity

6.7 (77 Ratings)

Sillage

6.1 (79 Ratings)

Bottle

8.3 (86 Ratings)
Submitted by Franfan20, last update on 09.08.2020.
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Reviews

jtd

484 Reviews
jtd
jtd
Very helpful Review    7  
rose cologne
Stéphanie Bakouche’s sensational Invasion Barbare for Parfums MDCI is a hard act to follow, and it’s worth considering that early-career success is not without its downside. The expectation following a Luca Turin 5-star rating of a first perfume is stratospheric. Rose Privée is Backouche’s second perfume, released a full ten years after Invasion Barbare and co-authored by Bertrand Duchaufour, cited by l’Artisan as Bakouche’s mentor. In the intervening years she’s been at the heart of the l’Artisan Parfumeur line, first as a Trainer and then as a Fragrance Development Manager and Perfumer.

The opening of Rose Privée is pure color. Pink rose, silver-green violet, white and pink grapefruit, green basil. But mostly pink, as in pretty. Not as unabashedly pretty as Drole de Rose or as self-possessed as Safran Troublant, Olivia Giacobetti’s two roses for l’Artisan, but Rose Privée is charming and fits the l’Artisan aesthetic. Rose and violet, a classic ‘makeup’ pairing, hint at lipstick but Rose Privée is far from the plumped and ready-for-battle lips of Incarnata‘s cold violet.

The rose of the topnotes is brief but bright, creating an olfactory effect similar to a cinematic lens flare followed by a hazed washout. The eau de parfum fades to violet via lilac, all the while suggesting a range of watercolor pinks and purples. The topnotes are gentle but as they meld into a sweeter, sharper lilac-magnolia accord, the rose seems more fragile than soft. The directness of the synthetic tone easily outpaces any attempt at a full-fleshed natural appearance, which is not necessarily a failure in a perfume. But for one that puts “Rose” in klieg lights and sells itself as a rose de mai, the transition from the topnotes to the musky-berry heartnotes has the feeling of deflation. Streamlined, abstract tones take precedence over verisimilitude to rose and the topnotes blow away in the breeze. Post-rose, the perfume is linear.

The ‘basenotes’ are a better indicator of the perfume’s intention. A calibrated woody-musky shape forms the skeleton of the fragrance. It recalls a softer version of the the finish Duchaufour has applied to many of his woody-florals like Dzongkha or Sienne d’Hiver, but without his signature incense. The odd thing, though, is that unlike the radiance and durability that the Duchaufour treatment usually gives a perfume, evanescence is Rose Privée’s chief trait. The whole experience of the eau de parfum lasts about 2 hours, after which it’s gone without a trace.

If you’re looking for a long-lasting or thorny rose, Rose Privée won’t suit you. But worn as a buoyant, floral version of an eau de cologne, it fits the bill. The rose de mai burns off like the citrus of an eau de cologne and the musky sweetness floats until it fades.
8
Scent
7.5
Longevity
7.5
Sillage
5
Bottle
Drseid

746 Reviews
Drseid
Drseid
Helpful Review    3  
Citrus Rose...
Rose Privee opens with a natural smelling slightly tart hybrid citrus accord that resembles a cross between grapefruit and peach. Moving to the early heart the slightly tart citrus mix joins modestly powdery, airy lifelike rose as co-stars with a honey pollen-like lilac and subtle carnation supporting floral duo. During the late dry-down the rose turns a bit more powdery but keeps the powder still to relatively low levels as dark supporting lightly spiced hay-like coumarin in the base joins the rose remnants through the finish. Projection is excellent, as is longevity at around 12 hours on skin.

When I heard Rose Privee was composed by the pairing of super-star "old-hand" nose Betrand Duchaufour and up and coming star Stephanie Bakouche (Invasion Barbare) my interest was piqued to find out what the old and new "A List" pairing could jointly produce. On the surface, going with a rose composition appears a pretty safe bet, as it is tough to screw up and has been done hundreds of times over. That said, this is not just an average rose you will find elsewhere. Instead, the pair has added a very interesting and distinctive citrus accord that permeates the rose early and hangs around for most of the composition's development. I still am not entirely sure what is driving the tart citrus, but it comes off as a cross between grapefruit and peach. What I *can* say is I like the accord a lot, and it pairs perfectly with the staring airy rose, creating a distinctive smell that really is sublime. The dynamic duo also add in a carnation and lilac supporting floral accord to the mix in the composition's mid-section that seems to pair with the rose citrus like they were made to go together. The only slight disappointment is in the late dry-down as the rose turns a bit more powdery, joining some deep hay-like coumarin in the base that doesn't quite mesh as well as the rest, but this is only in relative terms and absolutely nothing to worry about. As to similar smelling compositions nothing comes immediately to mind, but stylistically, Duchaufour's absolutely superb Rose Cut by Ann Gerard from last year kind of fits the bill. That said, Rose Cut smelled quite different using peony and incense instead of the tart citrus used here. Rose Privee also would probably be stereotypically described as more "feminine" by most due to the rose's airy nature. At the end of the day, "masculine" and "feminine" are just words, but all I know is Rose Privee smells really, really good and would on anyone. The bottom line is the $180 per 100ml bottle Rose Privee utilizes the talents of two superb noses and delivers the goods big time, earning an "excellent" 4 star out of 5 rating and a strong recommendation to rose lovers in particular.
1 Replies

Statements

HermeshHermesh 4 years ago
7.5
Scent
7
Longevity
7
Sillage
8
Bottle
Watery flowers (especially carnation) with light peppery spiciness and fresh hay; the rose is "Priveé" indeed since very restrained.

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