09/17/2021
Intersport
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Intersport
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Cuirex
La Parfumerie Moderne is, for me, one of the most charming brand names of recent years. No borrowings from publication icons à la Éditions de Minuit, no special character typing, no phonetic word painting between brand name and perfume lingo, just reference to a classic of olfactory literature coupled with a bold claim, and references galore: whether it's the path between Belle Rive or Rive Belle, British life wisdom, or invitingly disarming - all fine and dandy, but where to put Cuir X? I thought Maitre had already taken the cake in a weak moment with Cuir Fétiche, but X-exclusive, Bussi X, Triple-X leather, X-chromosomal leather - or maybe just spiritual, like the X on Xtra old Cognac? Now, fortunately, the name is not printed on the bottle, Parfum quickly retitled itself Cuirex in my case, in memoriam the abstract-crisp Cuiron, with which Cuir X has more in common than a first glance might suggest.
Cuir X starts as already observed here several times, fuel-like, but that only very briefly, a floral petrol-diesel note that could also escape a well-stored, matured bottle of Fahrenheit from early years. From there the pace softens, becomes more balsamic. No historicising herbalist leather like Etro's superb Gomma, we keep to ourselves for now in Casa Corticchiato, if the X is supposed to stand for booze, and here for whiskey as the communiqué de presse suggests, then I see it rather close to the rum note that found its way into Frapin's Speakeasy. In general, at this stage, Cuir X seems like a stripped-down but pared-down modernized interpretation of Speakeasy, which is overflowing with details. Saffron, iris and labdanum come into play. I like to speculate on such internals in Corticchiato releases, and I can't help it here either. There is an artistic process going on here, transitions and thematic links between perfumes are welcome, the opposite of a master plan that checks off one category after another separately. Part of this reduction also allows the perspective via Helmut Lang's leather, it follows at least hinted, a delicate Cuiron-Cuirex-Corticchiato-Caron symbiosis. The homerun ultimately happens in drydown. Cuir X merges with Cuir Ottoman, with clear vanilla and tonka
Cuir X starts as already observed here several times, fuel-like, but that only very briefly, a floral petrol-diesel note that could also escape a well-stored, matured bottle of Fahrenheit from early years. From there the pace softens, becomes more balsamic. No historicising herbalist leather like Etro's superb Gomma, we keep to ourselves for now in Casa Corticchiato, if the X is supposed to stand for booze, and here for whiskey as the communiqué de presse suggests, then I see it rather close to the rum note that found its way into Frapin's Speakeasy. In general, at this stage, Cuir X seems like a stripped-down but pared-down modernized interpretation of Speakeasy, which is overflowing with details. Saffron, iris and labdanum come into play. I like to speculate on such internals in Corticchiato releases, and I can't help it here either. There is an artistic process going on here, transitions and thematic links between perfumes are welcome, the opposite of a master plan that checks off one category after another separately. Part of this reduction also allows the perspective via Helmut Lang's leather, it follows at least hinted, a delicate Cuiron-Cuirex-Corticchiato-Caron symbiosis. The homerun ultimately happens in drydown. Cuir X merges with Cuir Ottoman, with clear vanilla and tonka
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