Very helpful Review
Centifolia Rose Jam
I at first smelt Parfait de Roses and Rose Berberanza together at a Lancôme counter, before testing them more thouroughly one after another. According to Lancôme, these two rose fragrances showcase two different types of roses in perfumery: Rose Centifolia and Rose Damascena, respectively. Smelling them side by side, the two roses contrast each other like light and shadow, and I think Lancôme did succeed in hightlighting certain special characteristics of these two different types of roses.
Parfait de Roses is full of radiance thanks to the central Rose Centifolia accord. Its plush, honeyed sweetness reminds me of a delectable rose centifolia jam that I had tasted before, and yet it's adorned with a mild tartness and a bit of the green leafy aspect, as if it won't simply give up its vegetal life even after being turned into an exquisite jam.
The rose liqueur accord is soon poured within. Its intense, rich sweetness turns the composition even more decadent. The balance between luscious sweetness and saccharine toothache is a fine line to walk, and the subtle vegetal greenery and the round tartness of the liqueur accord did manage to help Parfait de Roses to hold its ground. But unfortunately, after about 3 hours, a generic gourmand creamy base starts to materialize and evetually sweep all over the composition. The intense sweetness of rose liqueur then turns on the rose centifolia accord and chokes her into oblivion. The aftermath is a saccharine, monotonous creamy rose base until the end.
I experienced a heavy to moderate sillage and a 9-hour longevity.
I was delightfully charmed by the lively opening of Parfait de Roses, a near perfect balance between natural floralcy and gourmand decadence. However, the monolithic, commercial creamy gourmand dry down left me utterly disappointed. It's as if Lancôme suddenly gets cold feet after the interesting opening, and proceeds to cling back onto the conventional gourmand base, which is a pattern that I experienced with other fragrances from this Grand Cru collection as well.
If you happen to be looking for a rose jam fragrance, I'd definitely suggest Parfait de Roses, as its opening is among the most dynamic ones that I had previously tried. But I'd recommend waiting for the dry down as well, in order to have a more thourough idea about it.