Iris 39 (2006)Eau de Parfum

Iris 39 (Eau de Parfum) by Le Labo
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7.7 / 10     38 RatingsRatingsRatings
Iris 39 (Eau de Parfum) is a popular perfume by Le Labo for men and was released in 2006. The scent is powdery-earthy. It is being marketed by Estēe Lauder Companies.

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Perfumer

Frank Voelkl

Fragrance Notes

Iris, Lime, Patchouli, Rose, Ylang-ylang, Musk, Violet, Ginger, Cardamom, Civet

Ratings

Scent

7.7 (38 Ratings)

Longevity

7.5 (28 Ratings)

Sillage

7.0 (24 Ratings)

Bottle

6.6 (27 Ratings)
Submitted by TVC15, last update on 08.05.2017
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Reviews

Solid but overpriced
A nice, solid, pleasant iris scent opening with just the right amount of rooty-waxiness and a bold prominent “lipstick” note, well scented with spices, a hint of zesty freshness, woody nuances well blending with the powdery richness of iris petals. I honestly don’t get any civet, at any point, but I do get some slight camphoraceous feel on the very base. Overall a simple, almost mystical scent in its floral-rooty simplicity, as it basically smells like iris with notes enhancing its different facets (woods, spices, other flowers, ginger-carrot for its rooty side). I appreciate in particular the work around the rooty-earthy side of iris, with a beautiful sort of “darkening” that starting from the initial bright freshness slowly takes Iris 39 down to a darker and darker earthy path, dusted with a sophisticated powderiness. Really pleasant, refined, versatile, somehow as “cold” and distant as earthy and rich, as iris often manages to smell – that is part of what makes it a fascinating material. Honestly though, I also get an unpleasant sort of cheap aftertaste here and there, a little metallic perhaps, which is something I wouldn’t expect at this price. I may be not that good in assessing the quality of iris (which is a note I admit I don’t know that well), but frankly and despite being surely pleasant and compelling, this smells a bit overpriced to me (like most of niche scents, though).

7/10
jtd
6
iris statement
Iris 39 gives a new perspective on the iris perfume. It twists the cool, rooty, powdery sharpness of the iris into a new shape. Where iris root tends toward the powdery in most perfumes, in Iris 39 it’s a cold, tingling, green, papery dust.  It comes off as dry but tacky like rosin.  Iris 39 keeps the conciseness of iris. The definitive quality of the iris. If iris root were a manner of speaking it would read as follows:

Declarative statement. (“Declarative statement, pause, full stop”)

The directness of the iris can read as cold (Chanel 19), sinister (Iris Silver Mist), unapproachable (Maitre’s Iris Bleu Gris) or chaste (Atelier Cologne Silver Iris). It’s a mistake to read standing apart as insult. Iris 39 bridges this gap in communication and keeps the objective tone of iris root, while easing the personal space restrictions

The heart and basenotes don't venture far from the topnotes.  I 39's changes are noticeable not so much as movement as a shifting of gears.  You can drive 50mph in 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th gear. The experience is different in each gear. It’s neither classically three-tiered nor linear. It stays in place, but it moves. It keeps an appealing sharpness throughout. Most descriptions of an iris perfume's drydown capture the result and how it came about.  'Softening to powderiness.'  'Fading to a whisper.'  On the contrary, I 39's basenotes are not about diminishing , but enduring.  I 39 remains dry but adherent. Prickly. 

Often I'm left questioning a le Labo name until I give up and accept that the named note may not be the star of the perfume. I 39 is different. It is a definitive iris, released at a time of seemingly thousands of other iris perfumes. It is simply an exceptional and gorgeous one.  

from scenthurdle.com
Scent 9.0/10
Helpful Review    5
Florals in WINTER?
I love how....
Iris, Lime, Patchouli, Rose, Ylang Ylang, Musk, Violet, Ginger, Cardamom, and Civet
can smell... so Unisex!
I have started to venture into IRIS based fragrances... yes, I do think Backwards..
Florals in WINTER?
but this fragrance is Unusual enough
that on a Cloudy Foggy Day.......
Can you guess? I live in San Francisco!
a Crisp Slightly Off-kilter Fragrance
makes sense.
1 Replies
Sillage 5.0/10 Longevity 5.0/10 Scent 6.0/10
1
Refreshing bouquets of iris in Summer
Iris has been a new-found obsession for me as of late. I'm currently on a mission to find the best iris scent for me to wear. As with most iris-based fragrances, they tend to be more suited to the warmer months and Iris 39 by Le Labo, is no exception.

Iris 39 opens very fresh and light. There is a touch of greeness that gives this fragrance that natural feel. To my nose, Iris 39 is very close in scent to a bunch of freshly picked irises placed right under your nose in a perfectly arranged bouquet. There is also a very slight watery note which only adds to the freshness of this fragrance.

Many reviewers speak of a prominent earthiness in Iris 39, which I never managed to detect. I found that once the iris and lime in the top notes had softened, the scent took on a rather soapy, clean-like quality.

Still lovely, but more like iris-scented soap, Iris 39 lost all of its previous uniqueness. The fragrance also becomes very faint, almost non-existant to an extent.

Iris 39 is lively, dewy and delicate, however the soapiness and then the poor lasting power deterred me from falling in love with this fragrance. Iris 39 has however encouraged me to try more from the Le Labo line. I am rather intrigued by their simplistic bottles and seemingly interesting interpretations of particular notes.

Iris 39 is an iris perfume for those that seek a soft, green and refreshingly Summery blend. Also anyone that desires clean scents, I would recommend Iris 39 to you.
Sillage 7.5/10 Longevity 7.5/10 Scent 8.0/10
Helpful Review    2
Iris, Lots of Iris
Le Labo IRIS 39 is one of the most iris-rich iris perfumes I've smelled, rivalling even APRES L'ONDEE in the density of this beautiful floral note. However, IRIS 39 also has a greenish carrot-top edge. I'm thinking that IRIS 39 may actually be the strict inverse of HIRIS, with the proportions of carrot tops and iris switched, making iris much more dominant in this composition than the carrot. Another notable distinction between these two greenish iris perfumes is that the carrots in Le Labo 39 appear to have been triple washed.

I'm not one to get all bent out of shape by iris perfumes with only low levels of iris present, since I think that it is perfectly valid to produce metaphorical perfumes and also to use iris as a complement or as one among a number of other equally important notes. I really don't think that any perfumer is under some sort of obligation to use hefty dosages of any note included in the perfume's name, including iris, just because it is so precious. That said, it seems to me that, with regard to this Le Labo composition, no such complaint can in any case be made.

I am quite fascinated by the fact that some noses find this creation to be richer in violets than in iris, which perhaps corroborates my inchoate theory about variable note salience from sniffer to sniffer. Well, that's another story. Suffice it here to say that I've been wearing a lot of violet quasi-soliflores of late (some quite green...), and this smells nothing like any of those to me!

This creation is beautiful, bountiful in iris with a touch of greenishness, and smells less earthy and carroty and more clean than HIRIS. Less powdery than APRES L'ONDEE, and more light and airy than IRIS NOBILE or BOIS D'IRIS. Yes, Le Labo IRIS 39 has managed to carve out its own little corner in the congested category of haute iris perfumes!
Longevity 5.0/10 Scent 4.0/10
1
how dry I am
Iris 39 is an incredibly dry, no-nonsense fragrance- evoking the image of a very serious librarian with her hair in a bun, wearing horn-rimmed glasses half-way down her nose, a dark fitted skirt and perfectly-starched white blouse. Wear this if you want to be taken seriously.

Statements

Hermesh 23 months ago
Iris in all its beauty: the powdery sweetness of the flower, the grassy-bitter note of the leaves and the light earthiness of the root.
Bottle 5.0
Sillage 7.5
Longevity 7.5
Scent 9.0

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