Labdanum 18Ciste 18 (2006) Eau de Parfum

Labdanum 18 / Ciste 18 (Eau de Parfum) by Le Labo
Where to buy
Where to buy

Search on

More
7.9 / 10     105 RatingsRatingsRatings
Labdanum 18 is a popular perfume by Le Labo for women and was released in 2006. The scent is powdery-animal. The longevity is above-average. It is being marketed by Estēe Lauder Companies.

Search on

More

Perfumer

Maurice Roucel

Fragrance Notes

Cistus, Civet, Castoreum, Musk, Hawthorn, Vanilla, Birch tar, Cinnamon, Patchouli, Gurjun balsam, Tonka bean

Ratings

Scent

7.9 (105 Ratings)

Longevity

8.0 (74 Ratings)

Sillage

6.5 (74 Ratings)

Bottle

6.1 (66 Ratings)
Submitted by TVC15, last update on 14.08.2019
  • RateRate
  • CollectionCollection
  • SoukSouk
  • ClassifyClassify
  • NotesNotes

Reviews

8.0 7.0 7.0 8.5/10
FvSpee

0 Reviews
Translated automatically Show originalShow translation
FvSpee
FvSpee
Greatly helpful Review    36
Triple glandular booming
Ok, I think the good Maurice Roucel wanted to create a theme scent here; according to the motto "everything that swells and floats in the animal and plant kingdom".

There we have the full animalic triple-glands-drone from Zibet, Bibergeil and musk.

Doesn't that sound like a rrrrrrrrrssss? Zzzzibet, Bbbibergeilll and musksssss? Zibet is pressed out of glands below the anus by civet cats. Musk comes from the musk gland near the penis of the musk animal, a tooootal sweet (a bit like a mixture of Bambi and a Star Wars-hopping animal) deer-like creature from Asia (in former times the animals for the extraction of the musk were simply killed off, today one should probably be further away and cut the stuff out of them alive) and beaver horny you don't want to know any more now, do you? In today's perfumery, and especially with labels that are as politically correct as Le Labo, synthetic substitutes are used as a rule, but just by considering that the perfumers used such stuff in the past, the vegan pizza comes up again.

And then to round off the vegetable source: Gurjun balsam is basically a resin sap that swells out of a certain Asian tree if you drill into it and make it really uncomfortable at all. I don't think there's any substitutes for it yet. It's probably going to have to be like Middle-earth with a few Ents first and give the stupid people who keep boring around in the trees a few on the twelve. And the cistus is a shrub in the Mediterranean region which has rose-like flowers and which (even without being tortured, by itself) emits such a certain resin, especially in hot weather. And you can pick it up (or pluck the goats running through the bushes out of their hair) and make Labdanum resin out of it.

Well, I hope I finally remember that myself. Because I could never tell what galbanum was from what labdanum was. Galbanum is a common resin (hence the name) obtained from any Persian herb. Labdanum is a resin from the Mediterranean cistus, the one with the goat hair. And Laudanum, which is not in this perfume here, is one of the four Roman camps around the small Gallic village; next to Kleinbonum, Babaorum and Aquarium. And Laudanum is also a tincture made of opium juice (which also swells out of the scratched poppy capsule, today everything swells here and is scratched), which was used in earlier centuries and still in the 1930s in Europe as cough syrup and for all kinds of drinks; even infants were instilled with it or dripped on the suction bags (predecessors of the pacifiers) if they screamed a little bit much. In general, Europe used to be full of drugs all the time; even in Goethe's day, instead of coffee, people liked to have a large strong beer for breakfast. But I come off.

So, apart from the three animal and the two plant secretions, we also have all sorts of well matching vegetable ingredients from the not exactly flowery variety like patchouli, vanilla and birch tar (yes, tar, like bad luck, the black mass that used to be lubricated between the ship's planks to seal them). And a few unnamed ingredients, because there must be a total of 18, according to the LL naming logic. Probably not lavender and bergamot.

After this prehistory I'm not surprised that this is the first (!) Labo (and I've got almost all of them through this now), which I didn't find to be extremely fleeting. Although the initial three-quarter-strong Sillage quickly goes back to one-quarter-strong, it then lasts for about eight to ten hours. That I'll live to see it. I don't know who invented the women's fragrance classification here. Le Labo probably not, to my knowledge they declare everything as unisex like many modern niche providers (or like Harry Lehmann...). And I don't think he's particularly feminine either. At the most as "Jicky" is feminine, so just by name.

Somewhat more surprising than the durability is that Labdanum 18 by no means appears as a brutal hammer scent, not as Kouros XXL (a distant, but noticeable kinship to Kouros can already be recognized above all because of the cibet), none to stay at the Roman camp Laudanum, Legionary Haudraufundlus. On the contrary. I find Labdanum 18 to be very clever, absolutely very modern, and despite all the "warm" and creamy ingredients like vanilla and all the spicy-soft balsamic resins in a way even almost cool-distant scent. I can't analyse it precisely and reduce it to a short denominator; I can only say - perhaps somewhat helplessly - that I find it wonderfully complete and round, absolutely balanced and balanced, rather a single, somewhat pulsating harmony than a strong dynamic; with a powerful, but damped and polished animalism, embedded in synthetic ozone-like, sometimes almost fruity fresh and in any case resinous-soft notes.

I really like this stuff; it seems pretty original to me too and I would almost be inclined to say that this Labdanum could become my first Le subscription candidate, because here projection and persistence are finally right, too. If it weren't for Mrs. von Spee lowering the olfactory bulb. Even without knowing the ingredients, Labdanum fell into the moose piss category with her. She doesn't appreciate that around her. Quel dommage.
25 Replies
8.0 7.0 10.0 10.0/10
Eunicorn

0 Reviews
Translated automatically Show originalShow translation
Eunicorn
Eunicorn
2
Round and portable
A creamy perfume, warm and round, with a microscopic touch of abstract plastic that gives it just the right counterweight not to be too sweet.

I had had Le Labo come with three samples, and because their bottles and labels are so neutral, I no longer knew whether they were women's or men's perfumes. Jasmin 17 was clearly more female for me, because of its proximity to the scent of flowers. Vetiver 46 unisex, rather male. And Labdanum 16 was completely neutral for me, so unisex.

Women can use Labdanum 16 as a ladies' perfume, men as a men's perfume.
5.0 5.0 7.5 6.0/10
Flavorite

240 Reviews
Flavorite
Flavorite
4
Soft, Powdery and Sweet
Labdanum 18 by Le Labo is very powdery, delicate- still, it could be worn by a man who likes sweet powdery scents, like the original Karl Lagerfield cologne for men, but is also ladylike in some ways. I would never buy a full bottle of this myself because I think it is about un par -note wise with many other cheaper baby powder dominant fragrances that are a fraction of the cost. This is somewhere between starting off as Elizabeth Arden's True Love (I know, right?! Again) tiptoeing into brief interlude on a Tauer L'air du desert Moracain flippantly drifting into a beautiful masterful Shalimar skeleton crew-type drydown (spices, civet and citrus sold separately).

Projection is also nothing to write home about it's a baby soft skin scent that reminds me of a product from the 70s called "Sardoettes" that was a disposable paper toilette with a scented mineral oil to be applied fresh out of the shower as a skin moisturizer. We used to love these and mourned their loss when we discovered they were obsolete- now I can take my sample combine it with mineral oil soak some toilettes and apply after showering for a trip down memory lane, or not bother. Don't get me wrong, I am thoroughly, enjoying my free sample, particular because I am having a severe allergic reaction to lilac and Lavender this week. This fragrance is perfect for the office because it won't set off anyone else's allergies. The base provides a little sensuous patchouli and Tonka and as it begins to drydown it feels very comfortable, natural and low maintenance. When I was studying wine chemistry and Sensory analysis, we used to have long and funny tasting classes...some wines were exceptional and some were dismal and some fell in the middle of the road, we used to wait for the head professor (a raging drunk) to declare these middle of the road bottles as "Imminently Drinkable, totally unremarkable" and then, throwing off the shackles of snobbery and intellectualism, the Bacchanalia would commence. This is the fragrance version and I declare it "Imminently wearable, totally unexceptional".
7.5 7.5 7.0/10
Sherapop

1239 Reviews
Sherapop
Sherapop
2
Cuddly Labdanum Amber
The reviews for Le Labo CISTE 18/ LABDANUM 18 are really all over the map, and not without reason: this is an unexpectedly complex perfume. The opening salvo of baby powderish-diaper scent is bound to turn a lot of people off. But shortly thereafter a significant animalic facet emerges, apparently due to both castoreum and civet. Now there's a dirty duo!!!! The labdanum and vanilla together produce a very straightforward amber scent--that is, after all, one of the more common recipes for amber.

My best guess is that people are variably sensitive to these three quite different facets of CISTE 18. That's why some are complaining that this just smells like a talcum powder facsimile; others maintain that this is a skanky musk scent à la Frédéric Malle MUSC RAVAGEUR; some actually deny the presence of labdanum; and some characterize this as an everyday amber perfume.

It is all of these--and more--in undulating waves! I like this unexpectedly (given the name) complex creation. I love labdanum, so we were already off to a good start. The animalic facet is not overwhelming to me, and I do not believe that this smells like MUSC RAVAGEUR at all--which is a good thing, in my book!
jtd

484 Reviews
jtd
jtd
Helpful Review    2
vanilla amber
Cistus labdanum is a classic amber material and has many facets to it. I had hoped that the le Labo minimalist approach would lead to interesting results. Cistus is so rich that even a spare composition using it could have complexity, and cistus can align with so many other materials with beautiful results. Unfortunately, I found Labdanum 18 quite flat and uninteresting. It starts sweet yet without flavor, and travels quickly to a matter-of-fact powdery vanilla amber. I smell a bit of the civet that might add dimension, but it goes nowhere. I can’t say I actively dislike it, but I have no interest in wearing or paying for it.
7.5 7.5 7.0/10
Missk

1165 Reviews
Missk
Missk
Helpful Review    1
Glorious incense
Labdanum 18 is yet another fragrance following in the trend of sweet, ambery incense scents.

Animalistic, but a little tame too, Labdanum 18 is beautiful. It has that dirtiness and rawness found in fragrances like Oud 27, Rose 31 and Patchouli 24, however this fragrance is much smoother, more feminine and sensual.

I'm tending to compare Labdanum 18 to Donna Karan's Essence Labdanum, although I find the latter a touch too linear and weak. This fragrance in particular has a deliciously sweet smokiness, which turns to powder towards the drydown.

The scent is minimalist yet effective. From all of Le Labo's oriental offerings, Labdanum 18 is the most feminine and incense-y.

I really loved the progression from the top notes to the heart, however in the drydown, while this fragrance still captivates me, I find it a little too predictable. My only gripe being that it shares many similarities with other incense-based scents.

In regards to longevity, Labdanum 18 does last considerably well. I found this fragrance very enjoyable on the day that I wore it, relishing in its smoothness and its exotic aura.
Muskwood

5 Reviews
Muskwood
Muskwood
Labdanum 18
Le Labo's Labdanum 18 is confusing and interesting. It is quite surprising since there is both a very young and "old" feel to it. It smells like talcum power, but at the same time, the use of civet makes it heavier. I like this smell, but not for me. It isnt "young" enough. For some reason I keep wanting to compare it to Guerlain's Shalimar, because of the musky, "animal" smell to it.
I have to add that Labdanum combines this innocent baby image (with the talcum power) and the very sensual, raw, straightforward civet smell. Its an in-your-face perfume like, "come get me", but the powdery scent of it makes it quite subtle and complex at the same time.
Definitely try it. I enjoy Le Labo's perfumes, but this Labdanum 18 really stands out- it doesn't smell like the other ones from that brand.
About the longevity; the staff at the store told me it was super long lasting, the most long lasting of the brand, but for some reason: I was super disappointed to notice that it would literally last 30 minutes on my skin. Seriously. Maybe they didn't compound mine properly. But still, I have to admit that I love this perfume and I wish it would suit me better. I guess I just don't want to smell like this enough...

Statements

Hermesh 4 years ago
Slightly floral, slightly (background-)woody, slightly animalistic, slightly sweet balsamic. Beautiful and well-balanced.
5.0
7.5
10.0
8.0

Perfume Classification by the Community


Photos by the Community

by EauMySoul
by EauMySoul
by Taskphorce
by Taskphorce
by Aldest
by Aldest
by Vlad
by Vlad
by Saemm
by Saemm
by KatRedhead
by KatRedhead

Popular Le Labo

Bergamote 22 (Eau de Parfum) by Le Labo Santal 33 (Eau de Parfum) by Le Labo Rose 31 (Eau de Parfum) by Le Labo Labdanum 18 / Ciste 18 (Eau de Parfum) by Le Labo Patchouli 24 (Eau de Parfum) by Le Labo Oud 27 (Eau de Parfum) by Le Labo Vetiver 46 (Eau de Parfum) by Le Labo Thé Noir 29 (Eau de Parfum) by Le Labo Iris 39 (Eau de Parfum) by Le Labo Lys 41 (Eau de Parfum) by Le Labo Ylang 49 (Eau de Parfum) by Le Labo Fleur d'Oranger 27 (Eau de Parfum) by Le Labo Poivre 23 by Le Labo Neroli 36 (Eau de Parfum) by Le Labo Ambrette 9 (Eau de Parfum) by Le Labo Jasmin 17 (Eau de Parfum) by Le Labo Cuir 28 by Le Labo AnOther 13 (Eau de Parfum) by Le Labo Vanille 44 by Le Labo Gaiac 10 by Le Labo