07/16/2019
FvSpee
249 Reviews
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FvSpee
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55
Triple glandular booming
Ok, I think the good Maurice Roucel wanted to create a theme scent here; according to the motto "everything that swells and floats in the animal and plant kingdom".
There we have the full animalic triple-glands-drone from Zibet, Bibergeil and musk.
Doesn't that sound like a rrrrrrrrrssss? Zzzzibet, Bbbibergeilll and musksssss? Zibet is pressed out of glands below the anus by civet cats. Musk comes from the musk gland near the penis of the musk animal, a tooootal sweet (a bit like a mixture of Bambi and a Star Wars-hopping animal) deer-like creature from Asia (in former times the animals for the extraction of the musk were simply killed off, today one should probably be further away and cut the stuff out of them alive) and beaver horny you don't want to know any more now, do you? In today's perfumery, and especially with labels that are as politically correct as Le Labo, synthetic substitutes are used as a rule, but just by considering that the perfumers used such stuff in the past, the vegan pizza comes up again.
And then to round off the vegetable source: Gurjun balsam is basically a resin sap that swells out of a certain Asian tree if you drill into it and make it really uncomfortable at all. I don't think there's any substitutes for it yet. It's probably going to have to be like Middle-earth with a few Ents first and give the stupid people who keep boring around in the trees a few on the twelve. And the cistus is a shrub in the Mediterranean region which has rose-like flowers and which (even without being tortured, by itself) emits such a certain resin, especially in hot weather. And you can pick it up (or pluck the goats running through the bushes out of their hair) and make Labdanum resin out of it.
Well, I hope I finally remember that myself. Because I could never tell what galbanum was from what labdanum was. Galbanum is a common resin (hence the name) obtained from any Persian herb. Labdanum is a resin from the Mediterranean cistus, the one with the goat hair. And Laudanum, which is not in this perfume here, is one of the four Roman camps around the small Gallic village; next to Kleinbonum, Babaorum and Aquarium. And Laudanum is also a tincture made of opium juice (which also swells out of the scratched poppy capsule, today everything swells here and is scratched), which was used in earlier centuries and still in the 1930s in Europe as cough syrup and for all kinds of drinks; even infants were instilled with it or dripped on the suction bags (predecessors of the pacifiers) if they screamed a little bit much. In general, Europe used to be full of drugs all the time; even in Goethe's day, instead of coffee, people liked to have a large strong beer for breakfast. But I come off.
So, apart from the three animal and the two plant secretions, we also have all sorts of well matching vegetable ingredients from the not exactly flowery variety like patchouli, vanilla and birch tar (yes, tar, like bad luck, the black mass that used to be lubricated between the ship's planks to seal them). And a few unnamed ingredients, because there must be a total of 18, according to the LL naming logic. Probably not lavender and bergamot.
After this prehistory I'm not surprised that this is the first (!) Labo (and I've got almost all of them through this now), which I didn't find to be extremely fleeting. Although the initial three-quarter-strong Sillage quickly goes back to one-quarter-strong, it then lasts for about eight to ten hours. That I'll live to see it. I don't know who invented the women's fragrance classification here. Le Labo probably not, to my knowledge they declare everything as unisex like many modern niche providers (or like Harry Lehmann...). And I don't think he's particularly feminine either. At the most as "Jicky" is feminine, so just by name.
Somewhat more surprising than the durability is that Labdanum 18 by no means appears as a brutal hammer scent, not as Kouros XXL (a distant, but noticeable kinship to Kouros can already be recognized above all because of the cibet), none to stay at the Roman camp Laudanum, Legionary Haudraufundlus. On the contrary. I find Labdanum 18 to be very clever, absolutely very modern, and despite all the "warm" and creamy ingredients like vanilla and all the spicy-soft balsamic resins in a way even almost cool-distant scent. I can't analyse it precisely and reduce it to a short denominator; I can only say - perhaps somewhat helplessly - that I find it wonderfully complete and round, absolutely balanced and balanced, rather a single, somewhat pulsating harmony than a strong dynamic; with a powerful, but damped and polished animalism, embedded in synthetic ozone-like, sometimes almost fruity fresh and in any case resinous-soft notes.
I really like this stuff; it seems pretty original to me too and I would almost be inclined to say that this Labdanum could become my first Le subscription candidate, because here projection and persistence are finally right, too. If it weren't for Mrs. von Spee lowering the olfactory bulb. Even without knowing the ingredients, Labdanum fell into the moose piss category with her. She doesn't appreciate that around her. Quel dommage.
There we have the full animalic triple-glands-drone from Zibet, Bibergeil and musk.
Doesn't that sound like a rrrrrrrrrssss? Zzzzibet, Bbbibergeilll and musksssss? Zibet is pressed out of glands below the anus by civet cats. Musk comes from the musk gland near the penis of the musk animal, a tooootal sweet (a bit like a mixture of Bambi and a Star Wars-hopping animal) deer-like creature from Asia (in former times the animals for the extraction of the musk were simply killed off, today one should probably be further away and cut the stuff out of them alive) and beaver horny you don't want to know any more now, do you? In today's perfumery, and especially with labels that are as politically correct as Le Labo, synthetic substitutes are used as a rule, but just by considering that the perfumers used such stuff in the past, the vegan pizza comes up again.
And then to round off the vegetable source: Gurjun balsam is basically a resin sap that swells out of a certain Asian tree if you drill into it and make it really uncomfortable at all. I don't think there's any substitutes for it yet. It's probably going to have to be like Middle-earth with a few Ents first and give the stupid people who keep boring around in the trees a few on the twelve. And the cistus is a shrub in the Mediterranean region which has rose-like flowers and which (even without being tortured, by itself) emits such a certain resin, especially in hot weather. And you can pick it up (or pluck the goats running through the bushes out of their hair) and make Labdanum resin out of it.
Well, I hope I finally remember that myself. Because I could never tell what galbanum was from what labdanum was. Galbanum is a common resin (hence the name) obtained from any Persian herb. Labdanum is a resin from the Mediterranean cistus, the one with the goat hair. And Laudanum, which is not in this perfume here, is one of the four Roman camps around the small Gallic village; next to Kleinbonum, Babaorum and Aquarium. And Laudanum is also a tincture made of opium juice (which also swells out of the scratched poppy capsule, today everything swells here and is scratched), which was used in earlier centuries and still in the 1930s in Europe as cough syrup and for all kinds of drinks; even infants were instilled with it or dripped on the suction bags (predecessors of the pacifiers) if they screamed a little bit much. In general, Europe used to be full of drugs all the time; even in Goethe's day, instead of coffee, people liked to have a large strong beer for breakfast. But I come off.
So, apart from the three animal and the two plant secretions, we also have all sorts of well matching vegetable ingredients from the not exactly flowery variety like patchouli, vanilla and birch tar (yes, tar, like bad luck, the black mass that used to be lubricated between the ship's planks to seal them). And a few unnamed ingredients, because there must be a total of 18, according to the LL naming logic. Probably not lavender and bergamot.
After this prehistory I'm not surprised that this is the first (!) Labo (and I've got almost all of them through this now), which I didn't find to be extremely fleeting. Although the initial three-quarter-strong Sillage quickly goes back to one-quarter-strong, it then lasts for about eight to ten hours. That I'll live to see it. I don't know who invented the women's fragrance classification here. Le Labo probably not, to my knowledge they declare everything as unisex like many modern niche providers (or like Harry Lehmann...). And I don't think he's particularly feminine either. At the most as "Jicky" is feminine, so just by name.
Somewhat more surprising than the durability is that Labdanum 18 by no means appears as a brutal hammer scent, not as Kouros XXL (a distant, but noticeable kinship to Kouros can already be recognized above all because of the cibet), none to stay at the Roman camp Laudanum, Legionary Haudraufundlus. On the contrary. I find Labdanum 18 to be very clever, absolutely very modern, and despite all the "warm" and creamy ingredients like vanilla and all the spicy-soft balsamic resins in a way even almost cool-distant scent. I can't analyse it precisely and reduce it to a short denominator; I can only say - perhaps somewhat helplessly - that I find it wonderfully complete and round, absolutely balanced and balanced, rather a single, somewhat pulsating harmony than a strong dynamic; with a powerful, but damped and polished animalism, embedded in synthetic ozone-like, sometimes almost fruity fresh and in any case resinous-soft notes.
I really like this stuff; it seems pretty original to me too and I would almost be inclined to say that this Labdanum could become my first Le subscription candidate, because here projection and persistence are finally right, too. If it weren't for Mrs. von Spee lowering the olfactory bulb. Even without knowing the ingredients, Labdanum fell into the moose piss category with her. She doesn't appreciate that around her. Quel dommage.
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