Patchouli 24 (2006) Eau de Parfum

Patchouli 24 (Eau de Parfum) by Le Labo
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Patchouli 24 (Eau de Parfum) is a perfume by Le Labo for women and men and was released in 2006. The scent is smoky-woody. It is being marketed by Estēe Lauder Companies.

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Perfumer

Annick Ménardo

Fragrance Notes

Top Notes Top NotesPatchouli
Heart Notes Heart NotesBirch, Styrax
Base Notes Base NotesVanilla

Ratings

Scent

7.1 (88 Ratings)

Longevity

8.0 (68 Ratings)

Sillage

7.5 (66 Ratings)

Bottle

6.7 (57 Ratings)
Submitted by TVC15, last update on 03.10.2019
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Reviews

7.0 10.0 9.0/10
Palonera

0 Reviews
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Palonera
Palonera
Greatly helpful Review    38
Sláinte mhath!
"Have you been drinking?" he had asked, suspiciously looking at the bottles on the shelf.
There they stand, his pride and joy, set up in rows, bottle by bottle, packed in gold and green and blue.
They bear unspeakable names, the bottles, in writings that I can hardly decipher - Laphroaig and Kilchoman, Glenfiddich next to Talisker Style, Ardberg, Aberlour and as they are all called, the bottles with the amber gold, the liquid that smells resinous and smoky, peaty often and gently vanilla, dry fruity, like a whole beehive.
I like that - olfactory, mind you.
In the glass and in the throat rather not - this pleasure is reserved for him, him, the lover of the bottles, who almost keeps them as I do my bottles.

No, I hadn't drunk, of course.
But the question was actually obvious.
Resinous-honey wood escaped from my skin, deep dark, bitter smoke.
An old whiskey barrel, still containing the aromas of many years, gallon by gallon dark gold, with that highly traded.
A smokehouse next door, honey ham in juniper smoke.
And dark chocolate, the one with the delicate melt.
Whiskey, you'd think.
The fine, expensive Islay whiskey - vanilla, wood and smoke.
His suspicion was understandable.

"Patchouli 24" isn't whiskey - but whatever it says on the tube: I wouldn't have typed Patchouli as an ingredient, blindly tested.
Patchouli fragrances often don't feel quite right to me - they are too gothic, earthy, gravelly, too black and much too heavy, threateningly gloomy between Dracula and the cult of the dead.
But "Patchouli 24" has nothing to do with that, the fragrance is much too warm, too vital, much too friendly, despite all the darkness and smoke.
The boys and girls of Le Labo seem to have stirred up the kind of Patchouli that was already so characteristic in Mugler's "Angel", so juicy-sweet and full of life, so far away from all gloom that even die-hard Patchouli-haters took a nose and also two.

At temperatures above 25°C, a patchouli fragrance is usually not the first choice.
Not to me, not to the noses of my people.
But "Patchouli 24" also works now in summer, in the desert as well as in the tropics, at home in Germany.
A sprayer envelops me in a delicate aura, perceptible only to those who are close to me, who cling to me and sniff for a long time, again and again, with small noses and with large ones.
And my driver's license, I've got it too, thank God.
Sláinte mhath!

PS: Ergoproxy, Yatagan - thank you!
23 Replies
5.0 7.5 10.0 8.0/10
Drseid

671 Reviews
Drseid
Drseid
Helpful Review    6
Trojan Horse...
Patchouli 24 opens with a very earthy, near camphorous patchouli before quickly transitioning to its birch driven heart. During the early heart the earthy patchouli moves to a barely detectable supporting role as a very smoky rugged birch wood driven leather accord quickly emerges and dominates the composition through its entire middle section with hints of the birch's woody nature peeping through at times. During the late dry-down the patchouli completely disappears with the smoky leather softening, as dry slightly powdery vanilla from the base first acts as underlying support before growing into the late focus as the development comes to a close. Projection is excellent and longevity outstanding at well over 15 hours on skin.

As many others have mentioned (and quite typical of Le Labo) the Patchouli name on the bottle is far from a good indicator of what one sniffs. The *real* star of most of the development is the birch wood driven smoky leather. The birch near completely overpowers any traces of the patchouli, and by the time the composition reaches the late dry-down the patchouli appears completely gone. Apart from the addition of the late developing vanilla there really aren't many detectable notes (though the "24" in the name indicates there actually are 24 different ingredients). To me, Patchouli 24 really is a minimalist hard-core leather fragrance through-and-through, and an excellent one at that. The bottom line is the $240 per 100ml bottle Patchouli 24 has a deceptive name and most likely will disappoint those looking for a patchouli-focused composition, but hardcore leather lovers are bound to be pleased with its superior minimalist execution, earning it a "very good" to "excellent" rating of 3.5 to 4 stars out of 5.
jtd

484 Reviews
jtd
jtd
6
fan letter
A review of le Labo Patchouli 24, and coincidentally
a fan letter to Bvgari Black.
Thank you, Annick Menardo.

If I find a genre of perfume that I like, I embrace it. I stock up. With Patchouli 24, I’ve cornered the market on the smokey-leather-tea-patchouli-resinous-vanilla genre. The other two in this category I already own: Bvlgari Black and Andy Tauer Lonestar Memories.

When comparing apples to apples, the small differences carry great weight, and decision making is easy. I wear all three and never have the least difficulty choosing which one to wear on any given day.

Lonestar, Black and Patch 24 share a number of notes, and in fact could look very similar on paper. But notes and verbal descriptors have little to do with the experience of wearing these perfumes. Lonestar takes a sense of intention and deliberation to wear. But when the stars align, wearing Lonestar pays dividends. Bvlgari Black, less rough than Lonestar and more tailored than Patchouli 24, is the star of the three. Lonestar is rough and Patchouli 24 is dense, but both perfumes result from the cooperation of their notes. (There was a television ad for a dog treat that coined the repulsive phrase, “crun-chewy” solving, I suppose, a millenia-long dilemma in the dog world) The term for this particular perfume synergy would be, “am-birch-tar-y.”

But Black has a different motivation than cooperation, and the logic is indisputable. It thrives on the difference of its constituent parts and makes them work together in a complementary fashion rather than simply uniting them as a boy-band would be cast. Black has the seamless coordination of a perfectly crafted mechanical device. It’s not harmony, it’s the satisfaction of perfectly milled locks and keys.

Sweetness is the difference between the three. Black’s sweetness is the charm that results from amber, rubber and powder. Inedible, delectable. Lonestar’s sweetness is the sharp edge of tar, blanched white florals and and uncut vanilla extract. Patchouli 24’s sweetness is the key to its affability. The sweetness triggers perceptions of lushness and the sense of having satisfied a craving, but it never once falls into gourmand territory. This sweetness is the pressure valve of Patch 24. It is the reassurance of safety in a perfume that asks you to be comfortable in a place you’ve never really felt fully at ease. Trust the sweetness. You won’t fall into the gourmand trap, yet by the same token the big bad wolf (tarry, smokey leather) won’t harm you.

It’s no wonder that no matter the form, the field or the genre, thoughtful, accomplished artists over a period of time will work out their ideas in a specific range rather than inventing a new wheel with each series of works. From Femme to Ocean Rain, Edmond Roudnitska illuminated the fruity chypre. Pina Bausch showed us the depth of change that mid-20th century Europe had to accept moving from post-colonialism to multi-culturalism. Menardo has a gem of a focus, and arguably she’s written the book on what could be fleshed out into its own genre. Consider also that she’s virtually the sole author of the by Killian line. The opportunity to shape a line, and separately to creating a genre is not a common opportunity in perfumery. I’m ecstatic to know that it’s Ms. Menardo at the wheel.

from scent hurdle.com
7.5 7.5 8.0/10
Missk

1165 Reviews
Missk
Missk
Helpful Review    3
Sitting around a camp-fire
Patchouli 24 is quite possibly one of the smokiest scents I'll ever experience in this lifetime. This scent is not entirely patchouli like the name suggests; not earthy and green like most fragrances are with this accord.

There is a striking and captivating dustiness that is all too beautiful on the skin. At times this fragrance reminds me of camp-fires, ash and incense, all the things that I find appealing. It is no wonder that I love this scent so much.

The vanilla which tends to linger softly behind the smokey patchouli and woodsy notes, is divine and rather feminine on the skin. I must say that I'm a very feminine person, and I do not agree that this is strictly for men. It is too beautiful not to be shared between genders.

There is a touch of leather in this composition which provides a sensual, animalistic quality. For that reason alone I'm tempted to wear this out on the town to see the various reactions from men. To me, Patchouli 24 is the scent of a confident and captivating seductress.

I love Rebella's (Fragrantica reviewer) description, "velvety smoke" which I find sums up this fragrance perfectly. Be forewarned that this fragrance is rather intense, being heavy in its projection and lasting on the skin. If you've ever tried Annick Goutal's Les Orientalistes range, Patchouli 24 smells very similar to Myrrhe Ardente and Encens Flamboyant.
10.0 10.0 7.0/10
Sherapop

1239 Reviews
Sherapop
Sherapop
2
Lapsang Souchong-Soaked Dirty Leather Jacket
What happens when you soak a dirty leather jacket in a vat of Lapsang Souchong tea? Well, I think that the result would be similar to the opening of the perhaps misleadingly named Le Labo PATCHOULI 24. I suppose that it's because patchouli frags have flooded the market and most of them are totally (in some cases overwhelmingly) patchouli-centric that I was so very surprised to find such a heavy leather scent in a vial labeled PATCHOULI 24. I do think that there is a bit of patchouli here, but it is hidden within a zipped pocket of the Lapsang Souchong-soaked leather jacket. There is also a brief appearance of an ever-so-slight touch of booziness initially, but it smooths out rather swiftly, producing only a slight tempering of the leather by the drydown.

I gather that the leather-Lapsang Souchong effect (what many have described as "campfire"--and perhaps that's more apt, or at least more consistent with the dirty leather jacket...) is somehow alchemically produced out of birch tar and styrax. Whatever the case may be, this composition is at least unisex, if not fully masculine. Well, unless the woman in question happens to be a biker, in which case PATCHOULI 24 would work quite nicely, I think. I should add, though, that the drydown is quite a bit softer, as though the leather has been rendered more supple by the tea infusion--or was it just the quickly slammed shot of whiskey finally kicking in?

Yet again I am impressed by the power and longevity of a Le Labo creation, but this one's not for me, although I did enjoy the Harley test ride to view the dying embers of a California wild fire at dusk.
5.0 7.5 7.5 8.0/10
hedonist222

26 Reviews
hedonist222
hedonist222
Helpful Review    3
Patchouli 24
Let me start by saying there is no patchouli in this.

If you're looking for a patchouli or think this contains patchouli then I suggest you smell Patchouli by Reminiscence to properly recognize patchouli.

This perfume is wonderful. It starts out strong and smoky. Plenty of birch tar and styrax (resins).

I can't compare it to anything except Sombre Negra by Yosh.

The leather in it is nothing like the one in Derby, Knize 10, Cuir de Russe, Tuscan Leather, Cuir Ottoman or Gomma. Its a different leather if one can classify it as a leather to begin with.

Later, much later on in the dry down it softens to a vanilla pod drenched in the remnants of birch tar and styrax.

Its certainly unique smelling. Created by Annick Menardo who also created Bvlgari Black.
1 Replies

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