Thé Noir 29 (2015) Eau de Parfum

Thé Noir 29 (Eau de Parfum) by Le Labo
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Thé Noir 29 (Eau de Parfum) is a popular perfume by Le Labo for women and men and was released in 2015. The scent is woody-fruity. It is being marketed by Estēe Lauder Companies.

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Perfumer

Frank Voelkl

Fragrance Notes

Black tea leaf, Bergamot, Fig, Cedarwood, Vetiver, Bay leaf, Musk

Ratings

Scent

8.1 (74 Ratings)

Longevity

7.9 (66 Ratings)

Sillage

7.1 (65 Ratings)

Bottle

7.5 (71 Ratings)
Submitted by OPomone, last update on 21.10.2019
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Reviews

7.0 4.0 4.0 9.0/10
FvSpee

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FvSpee
FvSpee
Greatly helpful Review    18
That could easily have been expensive!
This is the log of my third failed (extensive) attempt to learn to love Le Labo (cool alliteration, right?).

Thé Noir begins with a tremendously exciting, beautiful, mild and yet strikingly powerful, round, distinguished black tea note that I had never smelt before.

After about a minute the scent changes its character completely; a fig framed by flowers now comes to the fore, which has its beautiful sides, but which scars along hard at the border to the muddy soft, warm fruitiness that makes some fig scents so unpleasant for me (but the border is never crossed)
After one hour "Thé Noir" turns again, this time in the Holzig-Erdig-Vetiverige. The teen notes of the first minute seem to reappear at least fragmentarily, Herbes balances himself with the gentle, the whole thing seems modern and unisex and despite the brand's natural image somewhat synthetic (not meant in a negative sense).

Although for the test I took half the contents of a standard 1.5 ml sample ("standard" here is to be understood literally, because Le Labo doesn't give it away, but sells it for 5 Euros for what I remember, but it could also be a little less), or in other words has fouled 10 spray shots, it never comes to a projection worth mentioning, and after 3 to 4 hours the fun (also very close) is over (confirmed by the nose at my side, which has finer olfactory nerves than me): An unacceptable behaviour for an "eau de parfum" of the very high price class.

Despite its durability, if the fragrance were as good as its head (or rather hair-tip) note, it would have become a purchase candidate. That this grade lasts only one minute, i.e. the time that some well-to-do customers take to test themselves in the Le Bono flagship store before pulling out their platinum credit card: a rogue who thinks Arges is doing it.
19 Replies
10.0 8.0 6.0 9.5/10
Noedde

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Noedde
Noedde
Helpful Review    3
Deep elegance
I'm very impressed.
In the first moment, a clenched male side presents itself. After a relatively short time, however, the fragrance becomes softer, fuller and the edges smoother. I notice a really very delicate cinnamon note, although it doesn't appear in the pyramid and it reminds me a little bit of Kenzo Jungle Elephant. My nose is sticking to my wrist, the cinnamon has disappeared after 30 minutes and gives way to a very radligradline note of black tea, which is discreet yet clearly perceptible. The fragrance exudes a cleanliness that is anything but innocent. It is full, deep, very elegant, neither spicy nor woody and certainly not sweet or mainstream.
I think I'm just about to fall hard in love.
2 Replies
5.0 5.0 7.5 8.0/10
Drseid

671 Reviews
Drseid
Drseid
Helpful Review    3
Brilliant Black Tea...
The Noir opens with an aromatic fig and mild orange-laced black tea leaf accord with a slight supporting cedar wood undertone. Moving to the early heart, the aromatic black tea accord deepens, taking on a mild smoky tobacco-like facet with the underlying slightly synthetic smelling cedar wood also more prominent. As the composition moves through its heart the slightly synthetic smelling woods gradually fold into the aromatic black tea, never being completely masked, but very well-integrated to the point that they almost seem like another aromatic facet. During the late dry-down the composition shifts gears completely as the aromatic tea and cedar vacate, revealing smooth musk, gentle vetiver and a touch of vanilla in the base through the finish. Projection is average, but longevity excellent at well over 12 hours on skin.

One of the most consistently excellent active perfumers today is Frank Voelkl. Apart from his stellar work elsewhere, Voelkl has produced most of Le Labo's impressive offerings with compositions like Santal 33, Ylang 49 and Iris 39. Now, we can add The Noir 29 to his list of winners. The composition immediately impresses with its brilliant use of fig to amplify the aromatic aspect of the featured black tea accord. Voelkl then brings out a similar slightly synthetic smelling cedar wood to the stuff used in his modern masterpiece Javanese Patchouli for Zegna. Unlike Javanese Patchouli where the smooth, dominant patchouli soaks up the woods primarily; in the case of The Noir, the synthetic woods are harder to hide and at first I thought they might be problematic. Luckily, after further review the answer is "No," as about a half hour or so into the heart phase the woods gradually get absorbed into the black tea accord. No, they are never obscured, but they become a key facet of the overall presentation, so skillfully integrated to the point that their slight synthetic nature becomes even a positive rather than a distraction, with an added tobacco-like facet providing a new element to counter them. The late dry-down is a bit of a mundane pleasant musky vanilla-like affair that won't set the world afire, but it somehow works as a nice change-up from the earlier aromatic wood-laced black tea. The bottom line is when I saw Voelkl's name associated with the $240 per 100ml bottle The Noir 29 I strongly suspected I would love it, and true to form it fails to disappoint with its "excellent" 4 stars out of 5 rating, earning it a strong recommendation to all.

Statements

Hermesh 4 years ago
Tea note is only slightly perceptible, but quite a bit of cedar and (later) vetiver. Fig gives also its clear green accent.+1
5.0
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7.5
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