Condottiere (2019)

Condottiere by Lubin
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Condottiere is a new and limited perfume by Lubin for women and men and was released in 2019. The scent is earthy-leathery. The longevity is above-average. It is still in production. Limited Edition

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Fragrance Notes

Top Notes Top NotesLemon, Bergamot, Angelica
Heart Notes Heart NotesViolet, Blackberry, Blueberry
Base Notes Base NotesLeather, Iris, Cashmere wood

Ratings

Scent

8.6 (7 Ratings)

Longevity

8.4 (5 Ratings)

Sillage

7.6 (5 Ratings)

Bottle

7.9 (12 Ratings)
Submitted by PanAroma0815, last update on 21.12.2019.
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Reviews

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Greatly helpful Review    22
When leaders of mercenary troops still scented themselves with Iris - long time ago!
This fragrance combines three fragrances, all of which I appreciate very much: iris (or iris root), violet (or violet leaf) and leather There are plenty of iris scents, violet scents, both also in combination with leather, and leather scents are countless anyway. I don't know of a fragrance that unites all three notes, but there will probably be one.
In any case, this combination is great!
Grassy-green violet leaf, the closely related buttery-woody-powdery iris and a hint of smooth leather merge into a wonderfully bright, radiant fragrance whose floral facets are neither sweet-floral nor Indian.
Since iris and violet notes are not obtained from the flower, but from the iris rootstock, or rhizome, and the violet leaf anyway, they bring a completely different spectrum of fragrance to the rose, for example, or the lily, whose petals serve to extract the scent.
The rhizome of the iris, from which the so-called iris butter is extracted, brings along not only subtle floral but also light, talc-like, slightly earthy nuances, while the scent of the violet leaf also exudes something delicately floral, but above all a lot of light green freshness.
Both fragrances are therefore also well suited for men's perfumery, which tends to be more difficult to create with more opulent flower bouquets, especially if they consist of so-called white flowers, i.e. tuberose, gardenia or jasmine.
Iris and violet, however, are now frequently found in men's fragrances: 'Fahrenheit' is worth mentioning, but also the older 'Grey Flannel'; 'L'Homme de Coeur' by Divine, as well as the well-known 'Dior Homme'.

Condottieri were now leaders of small mercenary armies, which were highly respected in Italy during the early Renaissance and were known to strut and strut with great decorum. They are also said to have made extensive use of fragrance essences that were already popular at that time, and what could be more obvious than the heraldic flower of the city of Florence: the iris
With 'Condottiere', Delphine Thierry has certainly not created the first iris fragrance (like all the fragrances in this new 'Les Aristia', she has not reinvented the wheel), but she has created one that is particularly beautiful, and one with incredible radiance. Especially the selection of the raw materials might have been helpful here, but of course also the clever composition and last but not least the quite high perfume oil content. The fragrances in this range are in fact perfumes. No eau-de-parfumes, but actually perfumes, are therefore above the EdP in terms of the fragrance oil content, although probably only just.
In terms of fragrance development, radiation and durability, however, they behave exactly the same way as perfumes do: fragrance development is more leisurely, denser, without dramatic, abrupt changes; presence is clear and reaches quite a radius, i.e. economical dosage is indicated, while at the same time durability is enormous. Still the next morning I notice the scent clearly.

In addition to the protagonists Iris, Violet and Leather, other contributors contribute to the successful performance and should not be overlooked, although they hardly get beyond a supporting role: besides a citric-herbal Hesperides prelude, contrasted with a touch of wormwood-like angelica, there are mainly light, dark berry accents, which contribute more aroma than sweetness, as well as some cashmeran in the background.
Cashmeran is now a fragrance component that I actually don't like that much, especially not when used in a sweetishly turgid environment. But here, in a dry, floral-leathery concept, I actually find it quite suitable.

The special bottle, quoting the fragrances of the Talismania collection, also deserves a mention, as it was probably designed by Serge Mansau, probably the most famous and successful bottle designer.
Not only is the characteristic curvature of the bottle striking, which almost gives it an intrinsic body, but also the elaborate cap, which adorns the head of this bottle like a kind of crown. The bottle itself is coated in gold and becomes visibly more transparent towards the head. The crown that adorns it has a clear Art Deco look and the stone in it, alternating between light-greenish and dark violet, even shows with some imagination the heraldic flower iris (at least I think I can discover it on my bottle...).
The box itself is huge and elaborately manufactured, and the entire presentation - box/bottle/content - is extremely noble
I have already paid more for sloppy presentation, not to mention the sometimes questionable content. Not everything that comes across as oh-so-exclusive and noble keeps its promise.
But here, I have to say, I'm completely satisfied!
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