Smoky, Indolic Jasmine
I love jasmine and have been adding more and more jasmine-centric fragrances to my collection in 2020. I finally added Lust to my collection this week after reading pretty much every review of it I could find on-line as well as screening a few YouTube reviews. I could not put it out of my mind, so finally, after adding Lutens A La Nuit and Perfumer's Workshop Tea Rose Jasmin to my collection, I decided Lust would be next on the acquisition list.
I have only worn Lust twice thus far, so I will update this review if my impressions change at all, but for now, I can only echo what many other reviewers have already written. This is an indolic jasmine and basically a jasmine soliflore. It is not as strong as I thought it would be, but it is pretty strong compared to many other fragrances in my collection. I detect an unsweetened, indolic jasmine throughout the duration as well as a huge amount of smokiness. In the deep dry down I still perceive jasmine, a lot of smokiness, and rather surprisingly, a nice caramel note that sort of wafts in and out if I put my nose close to my wrist. This is basically how this fragrance presents itself to my nose.
Lust is not elegant. It cannot compete with other higher end fragrances from houses such as Guerlain, CHANEL, Malle, and Lutens, but I do not think it is trying to compete with such houses. I think Lust is what it is, and it works for those jasmine lovers who do not mind the indoles, which I do not mind them. I do not think I could stomach this fragrance if I felt ill at all. It is too brash for that sort of situation. I do not think it is appropriate either for the office, for church/temple/mosque, for weddings, for christenings, or for any casual luncheon or supper. I think it is more of an evening fragrance and probably best worn around someone you know well who also likes perfume and jasmine fragrances in particular. It does not make me think of sex or feel sexy. Actually, the smokiness and the caramel note (does anyone else get caramel from Lust??) make me crave something sweet like caramel candies more than anything else.
I would consider repurchasing Lust one day once I use up my bottle. I love jasmine that much, and I think Lust is an unique enough rendition of that note to make it a staple in a jasmine lover's collection. It leans more feminine to my nose. I cannot imagine a teenager or a very young woman wearing this. Lust seems more apropos to the 30 and above crowd.
For comparison purposes, Perfumer's Workshop Tea Rose Jasmin is a pretty, rather soft, green jasmine and not at all indolic. I would place Tea Rose Jasmin at one end of the jasmine spectrum and Lust at the other end. Next on my jasmine acquisition list are Lutens Sarassins and Rogue Jasmin Antique. I look forward to comparing Lust to both of those. I suspect Jasmin Antique will be quite reminiscent of Lust.
One last note, I am very happy that Lush does not test on animals and uses ecologically friendly packaging, but I do wish they provided a boxed presentation. After all, any serious perfume lover stores his/her fragrances in their boxes in a dark, dry cupboard or closet. Having a box is the best way to protect the bottle whilst it is stored. The bottle itself is very inexpensive looking. Even the label is not centred properly, so I cannot give many points for presentation. Presentation leaves a lot to be desired even whence compared to inexpensive offerings from Avon, Perfumer's Workshop, and B&BW.