The animal is allowed to stink and sniff at each other with fervor, the human being who considers himself cultivated, however, forbids himself and his contemporaries this animalic pleasure.
In the late nineties, at a party on the East Coast, I met an over-candidate older American woman who told me with obvious comforting horror about her travels in Europe in the sixties and seventies. She found it incredibly amusing to tell me eye rolling how smelly and funky the Europeans would have smelled from her point of view back then. This was not only insensitive towards me, but also somehow met me personally. In the nineties, the global standards of personal hygiene were now so standardized that at least for most fellow human beings, physical products of their scent glands - and in relative terms, humans more than any other mammal - were reliably showered and deodorized away every day, apart from individual deviations. The use of perfume was also part of daily body hygiene, and for me it was actually a matter of course to reach for the bottle every day - sparingly.
But ironically, that's where the stinking dog is buried.
With the production of perfume, man has found a cunning and aesthetic way to present his archaic scents in a cleverly transformed form as a cultural product and to satisfy his desire for physical and sexual smells in a socially accepted way. Stinking of sweat is shocking to use a perfume that cleverly combines fragrance with sweaty bottom - and nobody merkt´s! - can be perceived as totally amaaaaazing by the same cleanliness apostles.
If you believe eighty-eight percent of the comments and statements on Parfumo that you feel, APLS is an example of sensual eeriness and animalism.
I don't see it that way. I have recently had the pleasure of getting to know some more extreme representatives of the genus "animalic scents", who deserve this name in its entirety, thanks to the donors. In this respect, my perception is probably not a suitable yardstick. The fact is: In APLS there is no pisel cat, no lardy animal secretions, no hot sweaty musk breath, no damp steaming wild shaggy, no indoly digestive products of any kind. On the other hand, there is cumin aka cumin, dusty dry, massively spicy, hard, so dry that it scratches my throat. Cumin is perceived very differently from person to person, some people are strongly reminded of the smell of sweat, I don't feel that way. I find his use a little sweeter in the Lumière Noire pour Homme by MFK, which is also highly praised here, but not really in such a way that the term "sweat smell" would be justified even rudimentarily. At APLS, this whole bowl of dusty crushed cumin is poured into vast quantities of honey, woody, resinous, tart sweet honey. In addition Benzoeharz, which I recognize often well in smells. The story is that because of its wound healing and skin caring properties, benzoin tincture used to be used in certain surgical dressings in South America, which I was able to get to know during a professional exchange many years ago that lasted almost a year. I loved the smell of benzoin tincture and never forgot it again. In APLS, the combination of honey and benzoin resin, in contrast to the dusty dry cumin, creates a loud duet that has its charm, the other components I see as subordinate. I perceive this at best as an abstract kind of illusory animalism, which arises from the contrast between sweet-honey-soft and sharp-dry-hard. The end product - dosed in minimal quantities - is really cuddly and attractive, but I miss a bit of the refinement that Cologne pour le Soire might have, unfortunately I don't know it yet. APLS is undoubtedly attractive, quite loud, for me only conditionally animalistic, but I think that is strongly dependent on one's own perception.
I thank Ergoproxy for the sample.