This is the second time I have deleted a comment in which I described a Kurkdjian creation in more detail. The first comment I revised was the one about the popular "Grand Soir". In my initial commentary, I tore it to pieces, but tried it out again some time later, tried for more tolerance and benevolence, and wrote a new commentary, which still shows that "Grand Soir" and I will not become friends, but at the same time mitigated the first, probably affect, tear and let the rating rise by 1.5 points.
Now I have a Kurkdjian on my cheek again, or rather on my neck, with which I went hard into court in my first, but now deleted comment.
Lately I wore "Amyris Homme" because of high temperatures and that despite my written statement that the tonka bean takes too long to add depth to the scent, which would make it bribe with its irrelevance. Also today he adorned my skin again, a new everyday life test was on the agenda. The thermometer almost reached the 30 degree mark and the humidity was once again a "wet" dream - just the right circumstances to play "Amyris Homme".
It was good to expose "Amyris Homme" to high temperatures and high humidity, because if it's something that Kurkdjian's creation needs, it's these two summery ingredients that occasionally drive us humans crazy, and this year in particular. "Amyris Homme" plays out all its trump cards here, of which I didn't get all the information at the first test. I guess it wasn't warm enough then. But it doesn't matter. I'm giving him a second chance, just like Grand Soir
The humidity of the air, which has now been mentioned often enough, has made me particularly sluggish and sleepy today. But "Amyris Homme" immediately raised me out of this sluggishness, thanks to the lively mandarin, which was to accompany the entire fragrance with a spicy rosemary underlay.
This was followed by the insertion of amyris and iris. The iris lent the composition a clean man character as one knows it from various other iris scents. Amyris, whose scent is said to resemble that of sandalwood, ensured that this cleanliness did not take too sterile a course. She also prevented the development of the pleasantly powdery iris into a stinging penetrant, as her aroma, similar to sandalwood, underlined the creamy fragrance and gave the now powdery mandarin more depth. That this happened was also quite good, because in the long run such a loud mandarin can also be very exhausting. So Amyris saved the day.
Now I wait for the tonka bean, which I dubbed in the first, deleted commentary as a strolling one. Warmth and humidity seemed to have spurred them on, so that after about an hour they started to work completely. It made the scent even sweeter, but without spraying the vanilla aroma, which is not unusual for tonka beans. It was sweet, but by no means vanilla. So let's describe it as a creamy sweetness that was created by the symbiosis of amyris and tonka bean and was powdered thanks to the iris.
Now let's not forget the mandarin. As already mentioned, she is still present, not as loud as in the beginning, but not shy either. Concentrated tangerine-seeking scent is not necessary to identify the tangerine, which preserves the fresh character of this overall composition in the later course of the fragrance.
I can only repeat that this fragrance needs warmer and more humidity. Whether the latter is so urgently necessary, I cannot say for sure, but high temperatures should be present in any case, it is hard to argue about that. They accelerate the emergence of the tonka bean, which once dawdles in cooler weather, and the iris, which is barely audible during the first test, also appears. It is therefore hardly surprising that the fragrance was characterised by powderiness, but above all more depth, which is decisive for a better overall assessment. In addition to the more appealing scent character, Kurkdjian's composition also captivated me with a stronger sillage. This is not a quiet pedal here and even if it is not a severe winter firecracker, it should be carefully dosed precisely because of the iris, which quickly becomes too penetrating for other people. In the case of overdosing, the whole thing can also be very pungent and correspondingly negative
It remains to be said that it is definitely worthwhile not to stamp a fragrance immediately after initial negative experiences and let it acidify on the shelf. I'm honest and say that the "Amyris Homme" really didn't attract much attention during the first testing. That would be too much of an exaggeration. I only found him to be dreary and trivial, and I searched in vain for the niche.
Did I also look for the second, positive test?
I'll make it short and say: YES.
"Amyris Homme" has more depth, more powderiness, more complexity, but it was not unique or especially prominent, especially compared to other fresh "mainstreamers". I like it very much, but it doesn't excite the endorphin release in me excessively and so I note that it is a nice, really well made fragrance that deserves its 8.0, but only because I kindly ignore the sinfully high price with such uniqueness.