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Notes05/14/2019
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DerDefcon
Olfactory dawdler
"Lumiere Noire pour homme", "APOM pour homme" and "Grand Soir": Two of them liked with good to very good. One of them, on the other hand, was not my case at all, namely the latter. But there is one thing that unites them, and that is that I found quite a few words for them, because they had a certain depth and knew how to surprise. Whether that surprise was of a positive or negative nature was irrelevant, because the fact is that I found more words for them than was possible for me here with "Amyris Homme".
"Amyris Homme" has a fragrance that at first I thought was a subspecies of the iris, which I haven't disliked since "Prada L'Homme Intense". Iris is also included in the heart note, but Amyris is something different again. It is a scent relative of sandalwood, which suggests a warm or creamy-smooth scent. How this component expresses itself will be discussed later. Where do we start? True-blue with the top note, the opening. Let's go.
The opening is, for a fragrance declared as fresh, not surprising, invigorating and fresh. The mandarin is thrown into your face, already squeezed and crushed. You might think you already know it, but here Maison Francis's creation already distinguishes itself discreetly, but not above all, from the conventional designer category, in which the opening almost everywhere, at least with fresh, spring or summery scents, often seems to be the same. The mandarin, however loud and dominant it may be, is underpinned by rosemary with a contrasting green note, which brings a certain herbaceous freshness into play. This prelude is pleasant for me, but somehow not too unusual. I am more excited about how iris, amyris and tonka bean complement the top note.
The top note, let me say in advance, remains present for an incredibly long time - yes - let's say it dominates almost the entire course of the fragrance. I only hear the iris very easily as soon as it sets in. We are very far away from powderiness and I would even say that it doesn't even need the iris, which likes to come along so pure and clean, because this scent in itself is the symbol for cleanliness.
So far everything smells very fresh, very clean and by no means scandalous, but therefore also rather boring, dreary and above all thin. The fragrance, even if it is supposed to be fresh, lacks depth, which I still hope for example from the tonka bean. Yes ... where's that actually?
The tonka bean still takes a little time. Instead, only Amyris seems to shimmer through and actually this component expresses itself as I read it. It uses a subtle creaminess that you may know when you are a strawberry lover and pour milk over it. The aromatic, fruity flavour of the strawberries is somewhat muted and experiences more depth and a certain darkness. The fruit is no longer so sweet and tangy and not always out for attack. Although we don't have the strawberry as a component here, the principle I just described works because it just occurred to me spontaneously, even with "Amyris Homme". The herbaceous, discreetly spicy mandarin is bedded somewhat, but unfortunately not as I had hoped. For my taste there might be some more smoothness or creaminess there, since this extremely awake and effervescent mandarin seems to me to go gradually on the cookie. My last hope is the tonka bean, which actually knocks on the door. She seems to have gone a long and hardscrabble, if not exhausting, wrong way. When she arrives, she seems exhausted and powerless. The vanilla sweet, which actually distinguishes her, can only be guessed at. Mind you ... i am not expecting any exaggerated sweetness here, because after all, this fragrance composition should be fresh and light, but when the description of the fragrance refers to the tonka bean, I expect it to be more perceptible. Due to her practical absence - here it is like a student who is physically present in the seminar but has nothing productive to contribute - the scent does not attain the depth I would have wished for and Amyris alone cannot do much against the mandarin, however spicy-green it may be. I will not talk about the iris again now, but about the tonka bean, because it was she who let Amyris down when it came to taming the mandarin. The latter is in the game until the end. Well, it is not so rare now that an element from the top note survives the entire course of the fragrance and in our case - and this must not be concealed - is actually given a slightly woody background (see base note). Much more decisive is the how and to this it should be said that the mandarin manages until the end to knock on the nasal mucous membranes with a constant presence. I wouldn't describe this as very disturbing, because Amyris at least intervenes a little - the emphasis is on "something" - regulating. I think one could speak of an occasional, slightly annoying monotony here, but one where the tangerine-loving perfumes would get their money's worth. For me personally, the fragrance is too boring and irrelevant. But it's not bad and it's especially positive that it can be worn anywhere and at any time - be it in autumn, spring or summer, be it with a shirt, suit or casually. There can be no question of a lack of support flexibility here.
And now I somehow found quite a few words for "Amyris Homme" and that, although he seems so boring and irrelevant to me ;)
"Amyris Homme" has a fragrance that at first I thought was a subspecies of the iris, which I haven't disliked since "Prada L'Homme Intense". Iris is also included in the heart note, but Amyris is something different again. It is a scent relative of sandalwood, which suggests a warm or creamy-smooth scent. How this component expresses itself will be discussed later. Where do we start? True-blue with the top note, the opening. Let's go.
The opening is, for a fragrance declared as fresh, not surprising, invigorating and fresh. The mandarin is thrown into your face, already squeezed and crushed. You might think you already know it, but here Maison Francis's creation already distinguishes itself discreetly, but not above all, from the conventional designer category, in which the opening almost everywhere, at least with fresh, spring or summery scents, often seems to be the same. The mandarin, however loud and dominant it may be, is underpinned by rosemary with a contrasting green note, which brings a certain herbaceous freshness into play. This prelude is pleasant for me, but somehow not too unusual. I am more excited about how iris, amyris and tonka bean complement the top note.
The top note, let me say in advance, remains present for an incredibly long time - yes - let's say it dominates almost the entire course of the fragrance. I only hear the iris very easily as soon as it sets in. We are very far away from powderiness and I would even say that it doesn't even need the iris, which likes to come along so pure and clean, because this scent in itself is the symbol for cleanliness.
So far everything smells very fresh, very clean and by no means scandalous, but therefore also rather boring, dreary and above all thin. The fragrance, even if it is supposed to be fresh, lacks depth, which I still hope for example from the tonka bean. Yes ... where's that actually?
The tonka bean still takes a little time. Instead, only Amyris seems to shimmer through and actually this component expresses itself as I read it. It uses a subtle creaminess that you may know when you are a strawberry lover and pour milk over it. The aromatic, fruity flavour of the strawberries is somewhat muted and experiences more depth and a certain darkness. The fruit is no longer so sweet and tangy and not always out for attack. Although we don't have the strawberry as a component here, the principle I just described works because it just occurred to me spontaneously, even with "Amyris Homme". The herbaceous, discreetly spicy mandarin is bedded somewhat, but unfortunately not as I had hoped. For my taste there might be some more smoothness or creaminess there, since this extremely awake and effervescent mandarin seems to me to go gradually on the cookie. My last hope is the tonka bean, which actually knocks on the door. She seems to have gone a long and hardscrabble, if not exhausting, wrong way. When she arrives, she seems exhausted and powerless. The vanilla sweet, which actually distinguishes her, can only be guessed at. Mind you ... i am not expecting any exaggerated sweetness here, because after all, this fragrance composition should be fresh and light, but when the description of the fragrance refers to the tonka bean, I expect it to be more perceptible. Due to her practical absence - here it is like a student who is physically present in the seminar but has nothing productive to contribute - the scent does not attain the depth I would have wished for and Amyris alone cannot do much against the mandarin, however spicy-green it may be. I will not talk about the iris again now, but about the tonka bean, because it was she who let Amyris down when it came to taming the mandarin. The latter is in the game until the end. Well, it is not so rare now that an element from the top note survives the entire course of the fragrance and in our case - and this must not be concealed - is actually given a slightly woody background (see base note). Much more decisive is the how and to this it should be said that the mandarin manages until the end to knock on the nasal mucous membranes with a constant presence. I wouldn't describe this as very disturbing, because Amyris at least intervenes a little - the emphasis is on "something" - regulating. I think one could speak of an occasional, slightly annoying monotony here, but one where the tangerine-loving perfumes would get their money's worth. For me personally, the fragrance is too boring and irrelevant. But it's not bad and it's especially positive that it can be worn anywhere and at any time - be it in autumn, spring or summer, be it with a shirt, suit or casually. There can be no question of a lack of support flexibility here.
And now I somehow found quite a few words for "Amyris Homme" and that, although he seems so boring and irrelevant to me ;)
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