Cologne Pour Le Soir 2009

Cologne Pour Le Soir by Maison Francis Kurkdjian
Bottle Design Fred Rawyler
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7.6 / 10233 Ratings
Cologne Pour Le Soir is a popular perfume by Maison Francis Kurkdjian for women and men and was released in 2009. The scent is sweet-leathery. It was last marketed by LVMH. Pronunciation
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Fragrance Notes

Benzoin SiamBenzoin Siam
Persian rose honeyPersian rose honey
Bulgarian rose honeyBulgarian rose honey
Frankincense absoluteFrankincense absolute

Ratings

Scent

7.6233 Ratings

Longevity

7.3162 Ratings

Sillage

6.2161 Ratings

Bottle

7.6143 Ratings
Submitted by Kankuro, last update on 21.11.2021.
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Reviews

8
Scent
7
Longevity
7
Sillage
8
Bottle
7
Pricing
Landshark321

221 Reviews
Landshark321
Landshark321
   1  
Sweet, powdery honey/benzoin, very complete
First long-overdue try of Maison Francis Kurkdjian Cologne Pour Le Soir, a honey/resinous 2009 release that’s powdery and semi-sweet with just a slight animalic bit. Its note listing (per some sources) seems apt as simply a blend of benzoin and honey, and it just feels well-put-together, not excessively sweet or dark or sharp or animalic. It’s a bit bright and invigorating while being somewhat seductive and potentially nocturnal.

The 2010 release that followed, Absolue Pour Le Soir, by contrast, is denser and more animalic, but, as many have said, CPLS is an easier wear, and though I would gravitate toward wearing it in the cooler weather and evenings primarily, it’s still a mostly-year-round-friendly option, something less likely to scare people away than APLS. And, as some have noted, despite the similar name, amber centricity, and juice color, CPLS is quite different from the sweeter cinnamon Grand Soir, recently more recently in 2016.

CPLS performs reasonably well, and though it’s not nearly as strong as APLS, it creates a good scent bubble and has good lasting power. It looks like CPLS, like APLS, is discontinued, though, which is a shame, as it’s a very nice fragrance.

8 out of 10
9
Scent
8
Longevity
5
Sillage
8
Bottle
DasguteLeben
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DasguteLeben
DasguteLeben
Top Review    20  
Baise-moi!
Sensual, almost erotic, but quiet and subtle.

Nothing is superficial: Benzoe without Buddhakitsch, incense without church, honey without cardboard, rose without soap.

Everything is perfectly balanced into a wonderfully edgeless whole that rests within itself, but acts like a physical magnet, resonant, attractive, stimulating.

And no note too much: a scented haiku like a Picasso sketch: a few strokes on paper say it all. Inhale two syllables: baise-moi!
9 Replies
9.5
Scent
8
Longevity
6
Sillage
9
Bottle
Efemmeral

18 Reviews
Efemmeral
Efemmeral
Very helpful Review    7  
Sacramental
If a traditional eau de cologne might annoint the skin in morning ritual, bracing not just in scent but in bracing the self to greet the day; if it might serve symbolically to gird the skin around what lies within, to reinforce a boundary between self and day and world, and make their impossible *mentality* possible, then this Cologne Pour le Soir is for me a most worthy counterpart for an evening ritual of return and repose.

It fizzes on, disarming and unbinding. Then imagine that this rush of joy gives way to bliss: incense hovers slightly above my skin whilst honey melds with it, the Cologne becoming almost immediately something replete with invitation and intimacy. There's a moment in the late dry down of vintage Chanel 22 where the silvery beauty relents and heaven touches earth. Cologne Pour le Soir lives in that moment. Whatever carnality might ensue is imbued with holiness.

This is a sacrament for the skin.
1 Replies
jtd

484 Reviews
jtd
jtd
Very helpful Review    8  
reinvented classic
Francis Kurkdjian made Cologne pour le Soir and I drive a Mini Cooper.

Eau de Cologne works not just because of the combination of ingredients and how they smell. It has to do with how they work together and how the composition unfolds.  We tend to associate cologne with its characteristic smells: citrus (fruit, leaves, woods) herbs, florals, musk.  But I would argue, and so apparently would Francis Kurkdjian, based on his Cologne pour le Soir, that the defining attribute of eau de cologne is not its scent, but the character of its dynamic qualities over time.

We call cologne bracing and think that this quality is just a reflection of the sparkling scent of citrus.  The bracing trait really comes from the volatility of the components.  The top notes shine brightly but briefly.  “Bracing” comes not so much from the tenor of the citrus notes specifically, but the alacrity of the top notes overall. In ten minutes any cologne you've ever tried goes from a flare to a much quieter glow.  To mix my metaphors, cologne goes from shining brightly to a quiet whisper in a very short period of time. This is an attribute of all classic eaux de cologne.

Every Eau de Cologne that you've ever smelled smells largely like any other Eau de Cologne you've ever smelled. The composition can just as easily be considered a recipe as a formula.  It’s in the public domain, it’s apparently easy to make, and it can be made from what you’d more likely call ingredients than aromachemicals. 

Kurkdjian reinvents the Cologne by throwing away the recipe and looking more closely.   His Cologne du Soir is a cologne by virtue of its dynamic qualities.  He reconstructs the eau de cologne not on hesperidic notes, but on benzoin and rose, notes you might expect to find weighing down the classic oriental.  Kurkdjian pares down rose and benzoin, making them lighter than air yet true to character. It’s a smart idea, and comes off beautifully.  As in the classic Eau, the topnotes have a half life measured in minutes, but they’re a blast.  Heartnotes unfold into basenotes, and what remains is a hint of a cumin-inflected incense with a rosy, musky skin glow.  And it just feels effortless.

So, I drive a Mini. What I love about my car is that it's perfectly balanced. Just like Cologne pour le Soir.  I can stomp on the brakes, stand on the throttle, or crank the steering wheel without fear of overpowering the chassis.  It gives a beautiful combination of fun and expectability to driving.    Similarly, no note in Cologne pour le Soir overpowers the rest of the composition.  By focusing on the dynamics of the experience, Kurkdjian remains true to the sensibility of the Cologne, but gives us something new.  

I would wear this stuff night or day.

from scenthurdle

Statements

DorothyGraceDorothyGrace 8 months ago
9.5
Scent
8
Longevity
6
Sillage
6
Bottle
On me smells like a slightly more artificial Parfum Sacre (Caron, edp, current bun top). Rather linear, not complex, sweet and pleasant.

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