Top Notes
Heart Notes
Base Notes
Rate
Collection
Souk
Classify
Notes05/12/2019
9.0 8.0 9.0 5.0/10
DerDefcon
0 Reviews
Translated automatically Show original
DerDefcon
The Attempt at Tasting
"What tastes good doesn't help." Man, I couldn't hear it in my childhood years. With great disgust I think back to the big antibiotic tablets that were supposed to heat up my frequent middle ear infections. Somehow one tries to cover up this abnormal taste by adding sweet treats, but this should never succeed completely. A certain taste remained therefore always present.
Well, we don't want to compare Grand Soir to any antibiotics I couldn't get down back then. But perhaps one or the other is wondering why I have started my comment by including a drug of all things. But I'm also pretty sure that some people are already suspecting it.
So... what's my point?
"Grand Soir" by Maison Francis Kurkdjian is definitely a fragrance that can be attributed with the term "niche". I have never been in contact with resinous scents before, at least until now, and I was curious when I sprayed the scent on the back of my hand for the first time.
Everything begins with a minimal smoky note, which probably comes from the Labdanum. This does not remain lonely for long and is immediately welcomed by Siam-Benzoe, the dominant component in "Grand Soir". So that's the resinous thing you're always talking about with this scent. I imagined this to be completely different. I roam with our four dogs through the woods in the north of Berlin and am lucky enough to pass by a large pile of piled up tree trunks, I hear this typically resinous-spicy atmosphere that characterizes our forests so much, but I don't find exactly this in the scent. Rather, a - I feel it this way - medical note knows to be astonishing. It seems so unnatural, so distant and in its own way quite polarizing. The fact that the medical is so prominent and so unpleasant reminds me of the quotation with which I began my commentary. It just doesn't taste, in this case my nose. I'm even about to run to the sink and use soap to end the misery. But as Kurkdjian is known, he likes to create fragrances that impress with their versatility. "Lumiere Noire pour homme" would be a good example and indeed "Grand Soir" is also changing.
With the insertion of tonka bean and vanilla as well as amber, this penetrating medicine takes a back seat, but by no means in such a way that one can claim that it is now gone. The resinous medical component now experiences some sweetness, creaminess and depth - away from clinical sterility. It is this attempt to make the fragrance palatable by adding that sweetness - vanilla and tonka bean - to conceal the unpleasant sides. But just as it doesn't work with drugs, it doesn't work here either, because the benzoin resin remains simply too dominant, too ingestive, while the elements found in the base note can still shake its throne. Since I don't seem to suffer that resin at all after the first sniffing, only one thing remains to be said for the conclusion, namely:
Mission failed! Tasting failed
Well, we don't want to compare Grand Soir to any antibiotics I couldn't get down back then. But perhaps one or the other is wondering why I have started my comment by including a drug of all things. But I'm also pretty sure that some people are already suspecting it.
So... what's my point?
"Grand Soir" by Maison Francis Kurkdjian is definitely a fragrance that can be attributed with the term "niche". I have never been in contact with resinous scents before, at least until now, and I was curious when I sprayed the scent on the back of my hand for the first time.
Everything begins with a minimal smoky note, which probably comes from the Labdanum. This does not remain lonely for long and is immediately welcomed by Siam-Benzoe, the dominant component in "Grand Soir". So that's the resinous thing you're always talking about with this scent. I imagined this to be completely different. I roam with our four dogs through the woods in the north of Berlin and am lucky enough to pass by a large pile of piled up tree trunks, I hear this typically resinous-spicy atmosphere that characterizes our forests so much, but I don't find exactly this in the scent. Rather, a - I feel it this way - medical note knows to be astonishing. It seems so unnatural, so distant and in its own way quite polarizing. The fact that the medical is so prominent and so unpleasant reminds me of the quotation with which I began my commentary. It just doesn't taste, in this case my nose. I'm even about to run to the sink and use soap to end the misery. But as Kurkdjian is known, he likes to create fragrances that impress with their versatility. "Lumiere Noire pour homme" would be a good example and indeed "Grand Soir" is also changing.
With the insertion of tonka bean and vanilla as well as amber, this penetrating medicine takes a back seat, but by no means in such a way that one can claim that it is now gone. The resinous medical component now experiences some sweetness, creaminess and depth - away from clinical sterility. It is this attempt to make the fragrance palatable by adding that sweetness - vanilla and tonka bean - to conceal the unpleasant sides. But just as it doesn't work with drugs, it doesn't work here either, because the benzoin resin remains simply too dominant, too ingestive, while the elements found in the base note can still shake its throne. Since I don't seem to suffer that resin at all after the first sniffing, only one thing remains to be said for the conclusion, namely:
Mission failed! Tasting failed
10 Replies
