Before I begin with the characterization of this really high-quality fragrance - so much is already anticipated - I would like to thank the entire forum and in particular Terra and Schoork, who informed and entertained me through their extensive writing work here in the forum and who brought me to the product series of Maison Francis Kurkdjian through their entries in the first place. I'm just a "newbie" and a little naïve in the fragrance universe. Of course, I would also like to express my thanks to Lenni1985, who sent me bottlings of "Lumière Noire pour homme" and "APOM". The "APOM" will also be evaluated in a few days, but for now it will be the "Lumière Noire pour homme"'s turn.
The rose ... phew. Rose scents and me - that can sometimes be a very difficult constellation. Many rose fragrances are too old-fashioned for me and just don't suit me because I still feel a little too young for them. I noticed that there's another way with Guerlain's extremely great gourmand, the "Homme Ideal" as eau de parfum. Here a rose is present, which is underlined by spice and leather and fortunately also does not jump at one so.
It's a little different with Kurkdjian's creation. The opening is loud, offensive and creates an aha effect. The rose can't be smelled, but instead of being deterred, I wait to see how the fragrance progresses. I'm curious to see what role the cinnamon will play here. Will I also hear the mugwort, a classic aromatic herb? I'm curious.
In any case, the rose does not need to push itself into the foreground, because it is already where it seems it wants to be. Her presence is characterized by an authenticity that will amaze you. I have already said that I don't take too positively too dominant roses, but the naturalness as it appears here inspires me. Yeah, it still all smells a little, let's say, old-fashioned. It smells like a rose water which, according to my personal experiences, is often worn by elderly people. Is that it, then? Does the rose continue to scream at me so loudly without being slowed down by other scent elements? The answer is a clear no. But please continue reading.
After about an hour the cinnamon joins it. At the S- and U-Bahn station "Heidelberger Platz" in Berlin, the place where the Ringbahn and the student line par excellence, the U-Bahn line 3, meet, there is a small snack shop on the upper platform offering various delicacies. One always hears only one note and that is that of the so-called "French rolls", i.e. cinnamon rolls. The whole platform smells like cinnamon and I like to take a breath again and again, because it is not polluted by the usual "Berlin air". The cinnamon note that we find in "Lumière Noire pour homme", on the other hand, is much more subtle, so that our beloved rose remains the centre of attention. Here, too, the cinnamon is staged in an incredibly authentic way, but without jumping into the foreground, as on the platform I mentioned earlier. It has a contrasting effect, whereby the once slightly sticky rose water "dries out" a little, if not becomes even dustier.
And then there's the mugwort. As if he were already feeling disadvantaged next to the rose and the cinnamon, he gently pats the cinnamon on the shoulder to ask if he could help it to grab the messed-up rose and bring it to raison d'être. They both courageously try to hold on to the thorny plant, but they may not succeed. The rose is too strong, too dominant and omnipresent. This does not mean, however, that cinnamon, mugwort and patchouli - the latter we do not want to forget - are ineffective. The cinnamon is able to add a certain spice to the whole composition, while the mugwort and patchouli ground it and give it a very light green colour that can be perceived with a more precise smell. This results in a wealth of facets in which I am always wondering whether "Lumière Noire pour homme" suits me. Sometimes we have a rose that suppresses everything around it and with which I only want to have something to do for a short time and that only because I like its authenticity so much. Then exactly this rose is underlaid with a discreet spice, typical of cinnamon, while only a little later it is slightly earthy-green. In fact, it also happens that Rose, Spice and the Earthy come together a little later but separate again and from then on come out alternately before they possibly meet again sometime. It seems to depend very much on the skin how the fragrance develops. Maybe it's skin-typical that I don't hear cumin. Who knows ...
We can therefore state that the fragrance process does not really come to an end. "Lumière Noire pour homme" can shine with an enormous versatility that the wearer can admire for more than ten hours without any problems. The Sillage is just right for such a fragrance. Two sprays are enough to make his environment happy, but not to disturb it. It should be considered, however, that this fragrance is rather something for autumn or spring. It should not be too warm in my eyes, otherwise the rose could become a little too penetrating even for rose lovers.
With "Lumière Noire pour homme", Maison Francis Kurkdjian has created a fragrance that even demands recognition from me as a Rosenskeptiker. The quality of this mystical rose water with its enormous power of transformation is simply grandiose. I have noticed for myself that the scent does not quite suit me, but this circumstance should not diminish my evaluation at all. I will try it out a few more times and maybe in a while I will find out that we both fit together. Until then, I will test more offshoots of Kurkdjians. The "APOM" is already waiting in the drawer and is literally crying out to be tested. But this should be done in peace and quiet, because one does not want to overtax one's nose and thus distort one's own judgement, but from today on it is a fact that I am fixed by Kurkdjian's fragrance series and that many a bottling will still move in with me.