Lumière Noire pour femme (2009)

Lumière Noire pour femme by Maison Francis Kurkdjian
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7.6 / 10     124 RatingsRatingsRatings
Lumière Noire pour femme is a popular perfume by Maison Francis Kurkdjian for women and was released in 2009. The scent is floral-spicy. It is still in production.

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Fragrance Notes

Rose, Cumin, Pimento, Patchouli, Narcissus

Ratings

Scent

7.6 (124 Ratings)

Longevity

7.8 (92 Ratings)

Sillage

7.0 (85 Ratings)

Bottle

7.9 (86 Ratings)
Submitted by Kankuro, last update on 30.01.2019
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Reviews

jtd

484 Reviews
jtd
jtd
Helpful Review    5
black light
Maison Francis Kurkdjian provides a number of entry points to the brand. It offers traditional products (perfume, papier d’Armenie, candles, body creams) and less expected ones (fabric softener, soap bubbles.) There is a deliberateness to much of the line that challenges the trend-chasing and slot-filling approach of many brands. His vision of a contemporary sensibility derives from an understanding of traditional methods and principles. The design of the brand is like Kurkdjian’s perfumes themselves: modern and classical, composed yet stylish, lavish but concise.

Kurkdjian has mentioned Guerlain as a model for his house but the line’s day-to-evening approach brings Hermès to mind. Hermès offers a fashionable cocoon from an unstylish world. My level skepticism of ‘lifestyle’ branding is stratospheric, but I’m persuaded by MFK.

MFK offers the daydream of a pleasantly scented life but manages to avoid Hermès’s pose of bored affluence. Laundry soap alludes to soap operas and the fiction of the bored housewife. Scented bubbles suggest designer-dressed children and an infusion of finery into the most remote corners of one’s life. The perfumes, though, hint at something more. Most perfume marketing matches a fantasy of inventiveness and distinction to tame, predictable perfumes, but MFK does the reverse. MFK’s subtle subversiveness is in the perfume, not the image. Absolue pour le Soir and Cologne pour le Soir are wolves in sheep’s marketing. The Amyrises satirize mainstream designer perfumes by creating idealized versions of them. The Lumières Noires poke at our nostalgia for the good-old days of the chypre. I might be able to resist the Maison’s sensibility but I fall for the perfumes.

Rose and patchouli aren’t an unexpected combination by any means and their pairing is a motif Kurkdjian has explored over the years, both in his own line and in commission work such as Rose Barbare for Guerlain and Lady Vengeance for Juliette Has a Gun. Coaxing something new out of well-worn materials is one of Kurkdjian’s strengths and Lumière Noire pour Femme demonstrates his knack for reshaping traditional forms and classical techniques to find a novel idea. He shifts the picture and rearranges olfactory clues. Pairing the refined floral and earthy patchouli is a well-understood method for adding richness to perfumes. Kurkdjian recreates the tone in an unexpected way with a clean patchouli and a dirty flower: narcissus. The dynamics are recognizable, but the reframing shifts the perspective and creates a new view.

Lumière Noire pour Femme highlights Kurkdjian’s ability to make perfumes that balance composure and abandon. Grain de Musc called Lumière Noire pour Femme a “bodice-ripper” yet it is also mink-smooth and lusciously lipsticky. It is composed at a glance but uninhibited on closer inspection. It hints at indecency but is never indelicate.

Kurkdjian’s style of subversion is highly mannered. He covers new ideas under a blanket of propriety. The precision of Lumière Noire pour Femme’s composition leaves no seems showing and reveals Kurkdjian’s strategy for subversion. No disruption, no distortion. More a seduction.
7.5 5.0 9.0/10
Fanny

62 Reviews
Fanny
Fanny
3
Black and White
Lumière Noire is all about Light and its Effects: a necessity for existence, yet it will create shadows in every shade of grey.
Very bright, it shines on the first buds in spring, full of promise for a lush and lusty life.
Without a doubt this is a wonderful yet very twisted blessing from the sky.
Life with LN is good, pure and dirty.

Sillage: medium
Longevity: medium
10.0/10
Kxnaiades

50 Reviews
Kxnaiades
Kxnaiades
Very helpful Review    6
a love story in a bottle
Heartbreaking. L'heure Bleue and Mitsouko always strike a melancholic note for me. Some scents thrill, some send shivers down my spine (yes I'm quite an emo person I suppose, or psychology would term me highly sensitive)but the first word that came to mind when I tried this on was heartbreaking. Why that word? I suppose it brought up emotions that would come from a wild crazy love that one instinctively knows cannot burn forever, the bittersweet ache that one has inside waiting for the inevitable end. For whatever reason, this scent made me feel that way. Anyway my search for the ultimate patchouli came to an end as well. I never thought this would be a contender, having tried from Angel to Noir Patchouli and beyond. However that's the first note that strikes me strongly and in a non medicinal way. The patchouli here is the chocolate aspect of patchouli, like in Coromandel but without being gourmand, which makes it the winner over Coromandel for me. Then a graceful non imposing, non stuffy nor musty rose dances in to join the patchouli. The rose here smells like in Brulere Rose. The spices here are so well-tempered, nothing acrid to the nose, nothing medicinal. Just an absolutely stunning beauty in a bottle that literally stunned me into silence. I suppose I didn't expect to fall in love, there are enough rose-patchouli combinations out there already. However, THIS one is different. Different from JHAG which for me it surpasses in terms of JHAG being more youthful and LNPF being more grown up but not boring. This is not as dark as A Portrait of A Lady, but the patchouli here is more chocolate than earthy.
I love Kurkdjian's work and I've never been disappointed. This goes on the much loved list, I've been sleeping in it and working in it for the past few days. I apologise for a dreamy and long review, I hope it makes sense or at least compels people to try this at least. Longevity and sillage are unquestionable. I got more than 12 hours on clothes and people around me said my scent remained a good hour after I left the room.
7.5 7.5 8.0/10
Sherapop

1239 Reviews
Sherapop
Sherapop
Very helpful Review    2
La Perla Meets Narcisse Noir
LUMIERE NOIRE POUR FEMME is my first foray into the house of Francis Kurkdjian, and it is a felicitous one! This perfume is one example of what may be my current favorite genre: floral chypre, of which LA PERLA and La Prairie LIFE THREADS PLATINUM are two other scrumptious examples. The patchouli is less prominent in this composition than in most other representatives of this genre.

In LUMIERE NOIRE, the new twist on the rose-patchouli floral chypre is the addition of narcissus, a flower also beloved to me, and the result is magnificent. Like other reviewers, I do not find this perfume dirty, nor do I find it very spicy. To my nose, LUMIERE NOIRE is a beautiful modern chypre with enough depth and darkness to add a touch of mystery.

Think LA PERLA meets NARCISSE NOIR, and you'll get something of the idea.

Statements

Lexa 2 years ago
Superb rose,so beautiful drydown,but that cumin makes me think of rotten eggs in a rose garden...ruins the whole magic of Lumiere Noire...+1

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