As a newcomer here, I'm going to try a series of comments. I hope they please.
The motivation, the idea and the criteria:
I'm a real fan of the scent of roses (in my youth my mother had Paris from YSL. I found "the hammer") But the rose isn't exactly the one you first come across as part of a men's fragrance. Nevertheless, I think the rose is contained in more and more men's fragrances.
According to the following criteria I / I will therefore have selected 12 of these fragrances and will comment and compare them bit by bit:
- Men fragrance (exception Desert Rose from Urban Scent as unisex fragrance, I simply had to add)
- Rose as heart note (exception: Much ado about the Duke by Penhaligon, idea originated in London)
- Published from the year 2000
- Rating of at least 6.0 with at least 40 ratings
- No Oud (not so mine)
Getting started: (1) Lumière Noir pour homme by the Maison Francis Kurkdjian
The house, the perfumer and the shop:
Francis Kurkdjian (*1969) grew up in a suburb in the east of Paris. He received training in dance and classical piano, but then decided to become a perfumer. In 1993, he completed his training at ISIPCA, one of the most recognized perfume schools in the world. Shortly afterwards (at the age of 25 (!) he created his first fragrance, Le Male, by Jean Paul Gaultier, one of the best-selling men's fragrances in the world (also an essential fragrance of my youth, I found enormously erotic). Since then, Francis Kurkdjian has created over 40 fragrances for renowned brands such as Escada, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Versace and Giorgio Armani. Finally he founded his own perfume house "Maison Francis Kurkdjian" in 2009 (together with Marc Chaya). The house wants to bring out "enchanting" yet "precise" creations ("codes"). According to his own statement, the focus is on "purity, refinement, timelessness and the audacity of a newly invented classicism". Lumière Noir pour Homme (* 2009) I first got as a sample in the "perfumery of my trust" (a big thank you to "love")
The fragrance, the ingredients and the experience:
Lumière Notre pour Homme starts with a clear rose. The mugwort probably gives the rose a stronger, slightly green tone. Mugwort is cultivated for the perfume industry above all in Morocco, Algeria, France and the regions of the former Yugoslavia (otherwise the common mugwort is used as a spice plant for fatty, heavy meat dishes (!). The oil is obtained from the dried whole cabbage and is then called "Essence d'Armoise". The Essence d'Armoise is combined with cumin (or cumin). The oil is obtained from the dried and ground seeds of the small plant that is native to Mediterranean countries, China and India. Cumin is a note that is used in many men's fragrances and, in my opinion, is responsible for the intensification of the rose and the further development of the warm basic tone of the fragrance. Without anticipating too much, it should be noted that cumin will also be encountered in Déclaration d'un Soir, where "a dozen roses for men" are combined with cardamom. Francis Kurkdian combines cumin in Absolue pour le Soir with musk to create an intense fragrance experience. After this first impression, a soft patchouli takes the lead in the overall impression. This patchouli is earthy and above all balsamic and velvety, rather not woody as usual. From my point of view, not sweet at all. Patchouli is a very cutting component of fragrances: As an essential oil extracted from the initially dried leaves, it is used as a fixer and ensures long-lasting adhesion and thus effect. After about an hour at the latest, a delicate, harmoniously soft rose/patchouli combination unfolds completely. Even over 10 hours after spraying, this wonderful combination remains unchanged. In addition, there is the further developed Essence d'Armoise with a very light note of black tea. I cannot personally perceive the cinnamon directly, but if necessary it underlines the warmth of the scent. The whole thing is in any case incredibly noble and soft, but also a bit feminine.
The conclusion, the comparison and the practical application:
Not only because I wanted to test here, I constantly smelled on my wrist all day long. Perhaps not suitable for every occasion and also not everyone's thing, but noble, round and simply well done. I can understand the high rating of 8.4 at almost 500 ratings very well and give an 8, and that only because for my practice use a little too feminine for a pure men's fragrance.
(1) Lumière Noir pour Homme - The noble softie
P.S. The final fragrances for "a dozen roses for men" have not yet been finalized. I would be happy to receive tips and suggestions.