Lumière Noire pour homme (2009)

Lumière Noire pour homme by Maison Francis Kurkdjian
Bottle Design: Fred Rawyler
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Lumière Noire pour homme (Maison Francis Kurkdjian)
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8.4 / 10     500 RatingsRatingsRatings
Lumière Noire pour homme is a popular perfume by Maison Francis Kurkdjian for men and was released in 2009. The scent is floral-spicy. It is still in production.

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Fragrance Notes

Mugwort, Cumin, Patchouli, Rose, Cinnamon



8.4 (500 Ratings)


7.9 (355 Ratings)


6.5 (345 Ratings)


8.2 (334 Ratings)
Submitted by Kankuro, last update on 04.01.2019
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Bottle 9.0/10 Sillage 8.0/10 Longevity 9.0/10 Scent 8.0/10
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Greatly helpful Review    19
(1) A dozen roses for the man (1/12)
As a newcomer here, I'm going to try a series of comments. I hope they please.

The motivation, the idea and the criteria:
I'm a real fan of the scent of roses (in my youth my mother had Paris from YSL. I found "the hammer") But the rose isn't exactly the one you first come across as part of a men's fragrance. Nevertheless, I think the rose is contained in more and more men's fragrances.
According to the following criteria I / I will therefore have selected 12 of these fragrances and will comment and compare them bit by bit:
- Men fragrance (exception Desert Rose from Urban Scent as unisex fragrance, I simply had to add)
- Rose as heart note (exception: Much ado about the Duke by Penhaligon, idea originated in London)
- Published from the year 2000
- Rating of at least 6.0 with at least 40 ratings
- No Oud (not so mine)

Getting started: (1) Lumière Noir pour homme by the Maison Francis Kurkdjian

The house, the perfumer and the shop:
Francis Kurkdjian (*1969) grew up in a suburb in the east of Paris. He received training in dance and classical piano, but then decided to become a perfumer. In 1993, he completed his training at ISIPCA, one of the most recognized perfume schools in the world. Shortly afterwards (at the age of 25 (!) he created his first fragrance, Le Male, by Jean Paul Gaultier, one of the best-selling men's fragrances in the world (also an essential fragrance of my youth, I found enormously erotic). Since then, Francis Kurkdjian has created over 40 fragrances for renowned brands such as Escada, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Versace and Giorgio Armani. Finally he founded his own perfume house "Maison Francis Kurkdjian" in 2009 (together with Marc Chaya). The house wants to bring out "enchanting" yet "precise" creations ("codes"). According to his own statement, the focus is on "purity, refinement, timelessness and the audacity of a newly invented classicism". Lumière Noir pour Homme (* 2009) I first got as a sample in the "perfumery of my trust" (a big thank you to "love")

The fragrance, the ingredients and the experience:
Lumière Notre pour Homme starts with a clear rose. The mugwort probably gives the rose a stronger, slightly green tone. Mugwort is cultivated for the perfume industry above all in Morocco, Algeria, France and the regions of the former Yugoslavia (otherwise the common mugwort is used as a spice plant for fatty, heavy meat dishes (!). The oil is obtained from the dried whole cabbage and is then called "Essence d'Armoise". The Essence d'Armoise is combined with cumin (or cumin). The oil is obtained from the dried and ground seeds of the small plant that is native to Mediterranean countries, China and India. Cumin is a note that is used in many men's fragrances and, in my opinion, is responsible for the intensification of the rose and the further development of the warm basic tone of the fragrance. Without anticipating too much, it should be noted that cumin will also be encountered in Déclaration d'un Soir, where "a dozen roses for men" are combined with cardamom. Francis Kurkdian combines cumin in Absolue pour le Soir with musk to create an intense fragrance experience. After this first impression, a soft patchouli takes the lead in the overall impression. This patchouli is earthy and above all balsamic and velvety, rather not woody as usual. From my point of view, not sweet at all. Patchouli is a very cutting component of fragrances: As an essential oil extracted from the initially dried leaves, it is used as a fixer and ensures long-lasting adhesion and thus effect. After about an hour at the latest, a delicate, harmoniously soft rose/patchouli combination unfolds completely. Even over 10 hours after spraying, this wonderful combination remains unchanged. In addition, there is the further developed Essence d'Armoise with a very light note of black tea. I cannot personally perceive the cinnamon directly, but if necessary it underlines the warmth of the scent. The whole thing is in any case incredibly noble and soft, but also a bit feminine.

The conclusion, the comparison and the practical application:
Not only because I wanted to test here, I constantly smelled on my wrist all day long. Perhaps not suitable for every occasion and also not everyone's thing, but noble, round and simply well done. I can understand the high rating of 8.4 at almost 500 ratings very well and give an 8, and that only because for my practice use a little too feminine for a pure men's fragrance.

(1) Lumière Noir pour Homme - The noble softie

P.S. The final fragrances for "a dozen roses for men" have not yet been finalized. I would be happy to receive tips and suggestions.
8 Replies
Bottle 8.0/10 Sillage 7.0/10 Longevity 8.0/10 Scent 8.5/10
The meaning of balance
Lumière Noire pour homme from Kurkdjian's empire is one of the most paradoxical, yet the most balanced perfume I have ever met. Once it opens with the very sparkling floral notes, it starts murmuring the dark spell of the woods and spices under your nose. To me the most attractive thing is that all the notes are presented together, and they construct a very lovely scent which is not only extremely captivating but also unforgettable. Moreover, in this perfume rose is the best supporting actress who plays a very crucial and sensual role, fading in and out all through this movie. As the name suggests, where ever you have the light you will have shadows as well. To me, this perfume is much like a philosophy talking about proportionality. Lumiere noire shows you the lights and the shadows (patchouli) made by those lights in a remarkable artistic way. Literally, all the notes used in this perfume are in their most balanced shaped, especially Cinnamon and cumin which are used commonly for exaggerations in lots of perfumes. Lumiere Noire is the old play of the shadows on the curtain. Give it a try.
Bottle 5.0/10 Sillage 5.0/10 Longevity 5.0/10 Scent 8.0/10
Helpful Review    2
A perfect play between Dark and Light...
Starts out with a clean, soapy, delicate rose, then descends into earthy fougère territory (courtesy of the dark patchouli accord). Like something which can be savage and delicate at the same time. A rose fougère if ever there was one!

Incredibly nice, and proof that Francis Kurkdjian is an incredibly talented man!

Simple, delicate and brilliant.
Helpful Review    4
~ Lovely Lumiere ~
~ "Lovely" isn't a description you typically start a Man's fragrance review with but that fits perfectly with Lumiere Noire! After recently revisiting this MFK I must say I will never be without it again. The rose and patchouli come together in a perfect marriage of notes. This is so soft and sensual it could easily be described as unisex much like coromandel in reverse. The light sexy rose just flirts with your nose and draws it down to your wrist at will like a fine glass of wine your testing for the very first time. And when the light dusty cinnamon comes into play the notes all blend to evoke a feeling of warmth and romance. This lovely will never leave my top shelf again that is exactly where this masterpiece belongs. ~
Kind Regards, Pt1

Score ~ Perfection
1 Replies
Bottle 7.5/10 Sillage 5.0/10 Longevity 10.0/10 Scent 9.0/10
By Far The Best From The House Of MFK...
Beautiful scent. I went into this one with very low expectations due to my utter disappointment with APOM pour Homme... I will have to reevaluate my expectations with MFK after this one...

Rose and patchouli, mix with a decent spicy dose of cinnamon and nutmeg to my nose (this could possibly be the cumin, which for once did not bother me at all). This blends perfectly later-on with a nice soapy, classy base that has a bit of amber and musk in it. It works quite well. Projection is average, with superb longevity. This masterpiece is an absolute winner and definitely full bottle worthy. 4.5 stars out of 5.
walk it back
Let’s go in reverse, because I’d like to end on a positive note. Lumière Noire pour Homme winds up a tidy, sweet musky rose. If you like it, you’ll recognize that it comes from thoughtfully designed succinctness. If you don’t, it’s a bit matter-of-fact. I won’t say that this fragrance loses steam or loses track, but it loses me. To Francis Kurkdjian’s credit, the ride from the beginning to the end is wonderfully designed, and like a well worded short sentence. One idea, clearly stated, perfectly understood. It’s just that everything I love about this fragrance is up front and fades by the quick-to-arrive drydown.

But, oh, that beginning. There are countless patchouli roses out there. This ain’t like any of them. The rose smells like wine, the patchouli smells mineral, and the cumin smells like cumin. This cumin is not a replacement for animal-based ingredients. Not that pouty-growl, wanna-be animalic cumin. It smells like freshly ground roasted seeds and perfectly inflects the rose/patchouli pairing. The three pieces together feel like hot, dusty sandpaper, and smell like temptation. I smell this opening and think, this could be a solution to the chypre/oakmoss dilemma that’s haunting us. This accord is that good.

I just wish I could run LNpH in reverse. But unfulfilled expectation is classic disappointment.

To hell with my disappointment. Thumbs up for that opening accord.
Helpful Review    2
Lumiere & Noir
Lumiere Noir... light and dark. Two elements in a universe at war, until they ultimately fuse into one another. Dark matter and a blood-red rose share the same molecular body, known as "Noir." A transformation that reveals a far more crimson floral, leaving a dusty trail of cumin and cinnamon. Narcissus, identified as "Lumiere" acts as a halo, keeping light and dark sophisticatedly in equilibrium.
Bottle 10.0/10 Sillage 5.0/10 Longevity 7.5/10 Scent 8.0/10
Lumière Noire pour homme
Rose, patchouli and spice.

If one enjoys L'Artisan Parfumeur's Voleur de Roses then this will be a delight.

Where VdR is heavy on the earthy patchouli, a 50/50 presence with the rose.
The patchouli in LNpH is slightly restrained by the rose and spices.

What you smell is a dominant rose dipped in oil consisting of patchouli and spice.

Longevity is good but projection (to my nose) is a bit below average.

Nothing, though, that cannot be remedied with more sprays.


MRoth 2 years ago
Does indeed feature mugwort - a musty, fusty herb. Always a joy to encounter a rarely-used note, and in Lumiere Noire, expertly blended.+2
Bottle 8.0
Sillage 5.0
Longevity 6.0
Scent 8.0

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