What strongly inclined me to this one fræ the outset was that strong °sweaty° musk note. °Sweaty°?: well, we could hold forth at length as to how some of the most attractive notes in perfumery have these °minging° parallels, but that is a large part of what maketh perfumery so fascinating & even a bit °sinful° perhaps. Anyway, the figure that comes to my mind whereby to relate the kind of muskiness that this one shows-forth copiously is, well, °sweatiness°! I have honestly tried to devise another figure that fits as well or better, but I cannot! And it's not that I am attracted to the smell of actual sweat ... ... or am I?, subliminally, or maybe °pheromonically°, or something like that. And it's not that it's actually ^like^ the smell of sweat as such. Nor am I even talking about what the 'fume ~smells of~, directly anyway, atall - it's more that it is ^itself^ worked-up into a wholesome sweat through some lusty & hearty exertion. It's kind of like the aroma itself is alive & well-exerted to the point of being in a vigorous sweat. It's a thoroughly °sanguine° & enthusedly °panting° aroma.
But this is what happens when an attempt is made to convey the olfactory impression made by musk-replete 'fumes. And I think the task of mapping ~collaterality~ of aromata belongs to the forum, really, as it is truly a Hercules-&-Hydra-n one; but imnensely fascinating.
Anyway, this 'fume excels, to my mind, in that particular kind of musk note - the °sweaty° musk. Or is it kind of, a bit salty, or maritimey? There's no ambergris in this - none listed, that is to say. It's quite different fræ the °soapy° musk - that's probably the most common kind, but I love it also. I could spend all day discussing the nuances of different kinds of musk or quasi-musk. This °maritimey-salty-sweaty° kind is seldomlier-encountered, but I have come across it here & there, but generally in 'fumes more costly than this one. Some of Roja Dove's 'fumes have it. And when I tried it chez my worthy apothecaries, I thought "there it is again, but @ not-so stratosphærick a price!" . And it's one if my °swoon-factor-11° notes. And it's beautifully showcased in this by the lemon & lavender & orange-blossom; but it's probably a good job I didn't know there's lemon in - it would probably have putten me off. But everything's ~of-a-piece~ here; & also transfigured & exalted by the musk: and to my mind it is the exaltation that is important -- relatively to which that which is exalted is ancilliary ... within reason.
... about a month later ...
Am giving this its first proper run-out: at the Whitworth Art Gallery. That °sweaty musk° that I keep going on about is just ... ! and gets better & better through the wearing. Some ambriness is becoming aparant. Seriously glad now the presence of lemon didn't get to put me off! Never thought uw could have donnen that with lemon. The sheer heft of this 'fume is phænominal.
That sweaty musk is turning into rain! It really is: it's metamorphosing into rain! And this metamorphosis is catalysed by the lemon & lavender. But then, with retrospect, I realise that it ^always was^ kind of like rain - I'd just never brought that idea to the surface. And now I recall a review of Creed's ~Aventus~ I once read inwhich the aroma was befigured as ^pineapple + rain + smoke^.