Iris Bleu Gris by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier
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7.6 / 10     50 RatingsRatingsRatings
Iris Bleu Gris is a popular perfume by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier for men and was released in 1988. The scent is powdery-green. It is still in production.

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Perfumer

Jean Laporte

Fragrance Notes

Top Notes Top NotesBergamot, Green notes, Lemon
Heart Notes Heart NotesIris, Jasmine, Vanilla
Base Notes Base NotesOakmoss, Musk, Vetiver

Ratings

Scent

7.6 (50 Ratings)

Longevity

7.5 (45 Ratings)

Sillage

6.6 (42 Ratings)

Bottle

7.1 (40 Ratings)
Submitted by DirkDS, last update on 18.11.2019.
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Reviews

8
Scent
8
Longevity
8
Sillage
8
Bottle
Meggi
Translated Show originalShow translation
Meggi
Meggi
Top Review    22  
There's a blurring in the assignment
This guy doesn't make it easy for you. The opening smells like glue, possibly the green leaf of black currant is involved. Iris flashes quickly, including a scurrying carrot homage, but quickly she is outflanked by rough, warm scratching, optionally mossy-green cockroaches, and finds it hard to resist from now on.

It may be that here the opponent is a tine too massive, but such an iris needs a worthy counterpart. Bitter and sweet aspects are always on the go. If an occasional thought of lipstick flashes at all, it is, so to speak, a very muscular or masculine specimen. In addition, punctiform adhesive ambitions are revealed for hours on end.

Within this mixture there is an effect in iris which I experienced similarly in Bois d'Iris of TDC (no twin!) and which is most comparable with a sip of tap water after a bath in the sea. It tastes almost sweet then and that's how it works today. The over-bitter iris in the interplay with latent carotene sweetness, which is odourless by right not separable from the lipstick powdery and yet the unpleasant more than just touches, therefore demands a lot from the wearer. Or the wearer - in my opinion, the format required for this fragrance blurs any clear classification.

In addition, from noon on I smell a clearly soapy impact directly on the skin. Aromatic and rustic, so in a strong, striking Anno-dunnemals way. None of the mentioned ingredients are able to break it down in its entirety.

In the course of the afternoon, calming comes via vanilla. The lady, however, does not paste the fragrance, but is only allowed to gradually round off the corners as a connecting element. Of course, Iris Bleu Gris never denies his strong core and all colleagues involved so far remain on board until the evening. Nevertheless, this mitigation is now good, because the trip was a bit exhausting already.

Conclusion: It has kind, corners and edges. A test recommendation.

I thank Bartholomeo for the rehearsal.
17 Replies
8
Scent
7.5
Longevity
7.5
Sillage
7.5
Bottle
Sherapop

1239 Reviews
Sherapop
Sherapop
   4  
Ideal for True Iris Lovers
Maître Parfumeur et Gantier is a natural-smelling, grounded iris perfume, which I consider to be fully unisex, despite its masculine classification. I was drawn to this creation by a variety of factors which conspired to impel me eventually to buy a bottle blind, going against my current policy.

First, I love iris, and having some familiarity with the house, I knew that I'd encounter the real deal in any perfume bearing that name. Second, the name itself is quite evocative to me. I love the connotations and associations of blue gray, and an iris thus tinged sounded irresistible. The final factor was jtd's review, basically confirming what I had suspected, that this composition would indeed feature iris in all its glory.

No buyer's remorse here, to say the least. This stuff is gorgeous. Is it masculine? No, not to me. It is not at all sweet, but it also lacks all of the usual suspect notes which mark masculine colognes. To me, IRIS BLEU GRIS toes the line between masculine and unisex, but it never crosses it. There are days when a scent like this is perfect for me. It has a green, almost vegetal quality, as though the iris has been cut and the stems are freshly wafting of the wet inside of an iris plant. There is also a lovely woody aspect to this fragrance, which reminds a lot of the Miller Harris woody perfumes. I'd say that the quality of the perfumes of Maître Parfumeur et Gantier and those of Miller Harris is very similar, especially as regards the dominant use of natural materials.

IRIS BLEU GRIS is only for iris lovers, but any true iris lover should not pass this contemplative beauty by. Vetiver shines through clearly in the drydown, but the iris is there, too.
2 Replies
10
Scent
10
Longevity
7.5
Sillage
7.5
Bottle
MemoryOScent

37 Reviews
MemoryOScent
MemoryOScent
Helpful Review    4  
Dirty green iris
n my iris quest I had to try what my favourite house had to offer. The masculine iris of Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier is Iris Bleu Gris. Being new to the game my first reaction to this was: “where is the iris?”. I was expecting something powdery, austere, sombre, much like the name implies. What I got was a humid, green, almost dirty scent that left me puzzled. Humid but not haunting. Green but not earthy. With a disturbing animalic note that reminded me of… sweat. Sweet sweat but still.. sweat.

Now that I have grown I can tell there is iris in this and lots of it for that matter. It is just that the notes that support iris in this potion are so much different from what one expects. First of all it is a green fragrance. Boldly, bitterly green. Have you ever crushed the stem of an iris between your fingers? Have you smelled the green juice that oozes from the stem? Well that’s the opening sequence of this scent. It goes hand in hand with a candied iris note, soft, pinkish and sweet and you can tell once you get past the shock of the green opening. But what lingers after the green opening has been tamed by the softness of the iris is the feeling of an organic smell. And I don’t mean that in the sense of “natural” but rather in the sense of something that lies rotting in nature.

The base has a lovely suede leather feeling. The most well known leather fragrance from the same line is Parfum d’ Habit and most certainly Iris Bleu Gris shares a lot of its base notes with this one. Not a tarry leather but rather a beautiful, soft aristocratic suede. The deep drydown is a soft, enveloping, soapy leather scent with traces of its vegetal origins.

Now, if any perfumista is given the keywords “iris, green, leather” the result they would come up faster than Google is: “Chanel No19”. So is Iris Bleu Gris a masculine version of Chanel No19? Is it similar? They certainly share the same box in the perfume systemic tree. No19 is a bit more bitter, more civilized, more composed. Iris Bleu Gris is happier, quirkier, naughtier. It is the only iris prominent scent that I have come across that doesn’t capitalize on the austerity of this note but treats it like what it really is: the smell of a macerated plant root. Needless to say that the name of this is totally misleading. Nothing blue or grey to this one. A more appropriate name would be Iris Vert Tanné (Green Leathery Iris).

Note: my impressions are from the current version. The vintage versions is surprisingly a little more powdery and hence conventional. This is one reformulation that had a happy ending.
1 Replies
jtd

484 Reviews
jtd
jtd
Helpful Review    5  
Green/grey iris root for a masculine. Bravo!
Great treatment of iris root. It's there at all times; in the green soapy topnotes; in the rootlike yet powery heart; in the dry double root base of iris and vetiver.

We tend to compare iris fragrances. The scent of iris root and the aromachemicals used to recreate it comprise such a particular yet complex set of notes that comparison is almost inevitable. Dior Homme, Chanel 19, Iris Silver Mist, Ferre by Gianfranco Ferre. Yup. The most directly comparable perfume, though is the wonderful and underestimated Bas de Soie from Serge Lutens. Iris Bleu Gris doesn't have Bas de Soie's metal cum hyacynth notes, but otherwise the heart and base, and the trajectories they follow are very close.

We speak as if Dior Homme created the first masculine iris. Jean Laporte thought to release an iris-centered fragrance in the mid 1980s and it's still with us 30 years later.

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