Le Mat opens with a boozy whiskey-like accord before quickly moving to its heart. As the composition enters its early heart it turns highly aromatic as radiant patchouli joins powerful burnt sugar-like immortelle. Moving in and out of the aromatic patchouli and immortelle starring tandem through the composition's middle are whiffs of smoky black tea with perhaps just an additional hint of airy bergamot. During the late dry-down the patchouli and immortelle both recede, eschewing their aromatic facet as their remnants pair with a light, natural smelling woody accord through the finish. Projection is excellent, and longevity very good at about 10 hours on skin.
*Now* we are talking... After having been somewhat disappointed by the prior two Mendittorosa compositions, I went into wearing Le Mat with lowered expectations. Of course, just when one expects a middling result, you instead get a winner. The first thing that became clear early in the composition's development was Le Mat has some real potency. The patchouli and immortelle starring tandem for most of the composition's development features very interesting aromatic aspects of both, and the fact that I enjoyed the pairing is saying something as this is coming from one who can't stand immortelle generally. Through the mid-section adding to the already interesting aromatic pairing were unexpected facets like the smoky black tea that would pop in and out. The late dry-down is the time most of the other Mendittorosa compositions near-completely fell apart, but happily *not* Le Mat. When I saw "blond woods" in the official base note ingredient list I feared my arch-nemesis, cashmeran, would make an unwanted appearance late, but if it is in the composition, I didn't detect it, instead the woods while light and somewhat vague smelled completely believable, relatively transparent and highly pleasant. At the end of the day, Le Mat succeeds where the rest of the Mendittorosa compositions to one degree or another fail; it smells good, it is interesting and it has good performance. The bottom line is the 198 Euros per 100ml bottle Le Mat is a very different and desirable take on patchouli and immortelle, earning an "excellent" 4 stars out of 5 and a strong recommendation. Finally, an immortelle composition I want to own.