Sherapop
Helpful Review
2
Bright and shiny violet-like but violet-less peach melba-tinged perfume
Miller Harris COEUR DE FLEUR seems rather violet-like to me: sweet and clean in just the way that violet-centric perfumes tend to be. Here it is only the illusion of violet, which is created through the combination of iris, jasmine, and mimosa flanked by a good dose of fruits: raspberry and peach. The overall effect is bright and shiny, in some ways similar to the fragrances which I have come to refer to as SSRI, including Salvatore Ferragamo INCANTO BLISS, Ellen Tracy TRACY, and to some extent Moschino TOUJOURS GLAMOUR. Balenciaga PARIS may fit into that category as well. They all shimmer in the manner of a mirage which one can never quite reach.
The difference is that COEUR DE FLEUR, while sweet and clean, also smells very natural and has a touch of amber mixed in with the fruits and the flowers. There is a sense in which this composition falls into the fruity-floral category, but what is missing altogether is the synthetic feeling of the vast majority of mainstream and designer vat-produced fruity-floral frags, which tend to be rather linear and produce a sort of zapping effect.
It is not that often that one encounters fruity-floral perfumes at niche houses, but COEUR DE FLEUR, like the rest of the Miller Harris collection I've tried, is on a much higher level in terms of overall quality than the usual suspects. It changes as it dries down, eventually becoming more peach dominant, but never becomes sugary or gooey. No plastic raspberries here, either--thankfully!
If INCANTO BLISS, TRACY and TOUJOURS GLAMOUR can be likened to Prozac in their effect upon the wearer's mind, then perhaps COEUR DE FLEUR could be compared to how one feels after running to the top of a mountain. It's a type of high, to be sure, but endogenously, not exogenously produced.