Top Notes
Italian bergamot
Black pepper
Elemi resin
Indian cardamom
Heart Notes
Iris
Lavender
Amber
Base Notes
Haitian vetiver
Tonka bean
Moss
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Collection
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Notes12/18/2020
Carlitos01
347 Reviews
Carlitos01
Top Review
10
An appallingly insolent reply to a Vetivér request
Even if I am just a moderate lover of the vetivér aroma, I quite like this Miller Harris proposal. It is slightly dirty and with a bitter touch ... a very "gentleman" fragrance.
Usually, all vetiver perfumes are green and earthy. In addition, we may find them either "very clean", a synonym for a vetivér plant coming from the Caribbean, or quite "dirty and smoky" indicating a Southeast Asia origin.
This perfume, asserting itself as truly insolent, presents both facets (which is quite rare). In my humble opinion it may be due to the use of a very good vetivér from Haiti, but "blended" with strong and enduring cardamom with high longevity supported by the elemi resin. This accord gives a special emphasis on a dirty (but not too much), spicy, and bitter vetiver scent.
Another interesting and insolent feature is that the fragrance seems to present you with an inverted scent pyramid. The resinous and ambery chord is likely to be more present at the opening than at the drydown. I only know a perfume very similar to this one, which is the Korloff Private - Black Vetiver from Korloff's private line. Both are highly recommended although my preference is more inclined towards the Miller Harris proposal.
The Insolent perfumer - Mathieu Nardin - also proposes to us another magnific duo within the Miller Harris house: Étui Noir and La Fumée Alexandrie. I could live with those three perfumes alone...
Its aura is quite masculine, so I don't advise it for ladies. But if you are a man, I recommend you to use and abuse this insolent perfume. It's one of my best suggestions for a perfume that it is VERY good on MOST occasions.
Let's try to frame this vétiver in numbers:
___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___
- Opening: 9.0 (bitter fresh and ambery; very unique)
- DryDown: 8.5 (still fresh but smoky; in line with just a few other very good vetiver proposals)
- Longevity: 8.0 (up to 6 hours)
- Sillage: 7.0 (Up to 4~5 feet; it projects for 1.5 hours; I would expect a bit more in this fragrance type)
- Uniqueness: 9.0 (Its very elegant green, smoky and ambery bitterness does make a difference)
- Usability: 8.5 (A midseason scent but ok for an indoor Winter as well; avoid the Summer)
- Versatility: 8.5 (An elegant perfume for more formal occasions. Good for the office and general daily wear)
- Compliments: 8.0 (An elegant smell that attracts its own share of praise)
- Quality: 9.0 (above average quality ingredients, solid flask)
- Presentation: 8.0 (elegant and discrete in the traditional Miller Harris flask type)
- Price: 7.0 (100 ml / 60~70 Euros)
___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___
Overall rating: 8.23 / 10.00
- between 7 and 8 = above average;
- between 8 and 9 = recommended;
- greater than 9 = do not miss;
Recommendation: This is a very good elegant and masculine scent to use ideally in Spring or Autumn, either during the day or at night.
Blind buy? No, unless you are a vetivér enthusiast. But if you happen to try it, you will certainly love it.
Music: "It Had to Be You" by Frank Sinatra - but also hear the Billie Holiday version, please :-)
Usually, all vetiver perfumes are green and earthy. In addition, we may find them either "very clean", a synonym for a vetivér plant coming from the Caribbean, or quite "dirty and smoky" indicating a Southeast Asia origin.
This perfume, asserting itself as truly insolent, presents both facets (which is quite rare). In my humble opinion it may be due to the use of a very good vetivér from Haiti, but "blended" with strong and enduring cardamom with high longevity supported by the elemi resin. This accord gives a special emphasis on a dirty (but not too much), spicy, and bitter vetiver scent.
Another interesting and insolent feature is that the fragrance seems to present you with an inverted scent pyramid. The resinous and ambery chord is likely to be more present at the opening than at the drydown. I only know a perfume very similar to this one, which is the Korloff Private - Black Vetiver from Korloff's private line. Both are highly recommended although my preference is more inclined towards the Miller Harris proposal.
The Insolent perfumer - Mathieu Nardin - also proposes to us another magnific duo within the Miller Harris house: Étui Noir and La Fumée Alexandrie. I could live with those three perfumes alone...
Its aura is quite masculine, so I don't advise it for ladies. But if you are a man, I recommend you to use and abuse this insolent perfume. It's one of my best suggestions for a perfume that it is VERY good on MOST occasions.
Let's try to frame this vétiver in numbers:
___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___
- Opening: 9.0 (bitter fresh and ambery; very unique)
- DryDown: 8.5 (still fresh but smoky; in line with just a few other very good vetiver proposals)
- Longevity: 8.0 (up to 6 hours)
- Sillage: 7.0 (Up to 4~5 feet; it projects for 1.5 hours; I would expect a bit more in this fragrance type)
- Uniqueness: 9.0 (Its very elegant green, smoky and ambery bitterness does make a difference)
- Usability: 8.5 (A midseason scent but ok for an indoor Winter as well; avoid the Summer)
- Versatility: 8.5 (An elegant perfume for more formal occasions. Good for the office and general daily wear)
- Compliments: 8.0 (An elegant smell that attracts its own share of praise)
- Quality: 9.0 (above average quality ingredients, solid flask)
- Presentation: 8.0 (elegant and discrete in the traditional Miller Harris flask type)
- Price: 7.0 (100 ml / 60~70 Euros)
___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___
Overall rating: 8.23 / 10.00
- between 7 and 8 = above average;
- between 8 and 9 = recommended;
- greater than 9 = do not miss;
Recommendation: This is a very good elegant and masculine scent to use ideally in Spring or Autumn, either during the day or at night.
Blind buy? No, unless you are a vetivér enthusiast. But if you happen to try it, you will certainly love it.
Music: "It Had to Be You" by Frank Sinatra - but also hear the Billie Holiday version, please :-)
SamuelGustav
Carlitos01
