Bois d'Ascèse 2012

Bois d'Ascèse by Naomi Goodsir
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8.0 / 10     205 RatingsRatingsRatings
Bois d'Ascèse is a popular perfume by Naomi Goodsir for women and men and was released in 2012. The scent is smoky-woody. Projection and longevity are above-average. It is still in production.
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Fragrance Notes

Top Notes Top NotesTobacco, Whisky
Heart Notes Heart NotesCinnamon, Amber, Labdanum
Base Notes Base NotesOakmoss, Smoked prickly cedar, Somalian frankincense

Ratings

Scent

8.0 (205 Ratings)

Longevity

8.8 (151 Ratings)

Sillage

8.1 (155 Ratings)

Bottle

7.2 (136 Ratings)
Submitted by Kankuro, last update on 06.09.2020.
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Reviews

7
Scent
8
Longevity
9
Sillage
7
Bottle
Laurana77

9 Reviews
Laurana77
Laurana77
   2  
Campfire Smoke Meets Cedar & Leather
This was another of the luckyscent samples a loved one let me try, and it's one I chose to keep. On application, I got smoke, reminiscent of times around a campfire and the scent is like that of a log of pine or cedar wood that's been burnt into nearly black charcoal. It's a bit too smoky for me and I didn't apply much so a little goes a long way. This fragrance also brought me back in time to when I used to attend a women's circle for rituals around a fire out in the woods at night where we'd each apply pieces of birchwood, pieces of pine or cedar and also burnt incense. This fragrance definitely evokes a sense of that sacred space, of incense and smoke and meditation.

After the first hour, the scent became more leathery and brought back vivid memories of riding the motorcycle of a good friend where we'd both be wearing leather jackets. There's a spicy-amber mix that comes into play about a hour in and rounds off the fragrance. It's a scent to wear on a day like this one which is cool, damp and rainy, and overcast and where you're going to stay indoors curled up by the fireplace with a good book. I can't imagine wearing this when out with others, nor is it suited to the office due to its intense heady smokiness. It's definitely suited to wearing with a quality leather jacket as the loved one who'd given me this in the luckyscent sample commented when I was wearing it the other day.

This is definitely a fragrance for lovers of smokiness and cedar, and it brings to mind sitting around the campfire with friends, pieces of cedar wood being added to keep you warm, and watching the sparks flying up against the darkening evening sky. It's a very evocative fragrance and if you have any memories of campfires when younger or of wearing leather whilst riding a motorcycle, this will vividly bring those memories back to you.

The sillage is moderate with it becoming a skin scent more rapidly than I'd anticipated. The projection is quite good, though, and it's easy to underestimate this because once applied your nose quickly adapts to the fragrance so it's best to apply a little at a time. Whilst as a woman I find this quite nice, I prefer to layer it with my Clarin's Eau Dynamisante EDT just to take the edge off the smokiness and to give it a lighter note. That way, too, I'm able to wear it out and people have enjoyed the mix whilst this fragrance on its own often come across as a bit too strongly smoky. However, I'm sure some people prefer not to 'dilute' it in any way and just wear it by itself.
8
Scent
8
Longevity
8
Sillage
6
Bottle
CoS
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CoS
CoS
   2  
A touch of smokehouse
This fragrance starts right off with a fairly strong smoky note and tobacco. The smoked cedar juniper is quite dominant from the beginning and reminds of a smokehouse. Childhood memories of when my grandmother smoked her own meat come to mind. On the one hand a nice, pleasant and warm scent and then somehow a bit penetrating. The tobacco note from the opening also stays on my skin for a while, but makes the scent quite masculine and reminds me of Cuba I could hardly perceive the whiskey, just like the cinnamon, amber and labdanum. It was more like this: I had hardly felt a slightly sweet note in my nose when it had evaporated and was taken up again by the smoked scent. The dry down remains smoky, especially the smoked cedar juniper is in the foreground again. In the background the Somali incense resonates, very discreet.

The silage and shelf life is above average. The scent lasted a good 8 h on my skin with a good performance. Even the next morning there was still a slight note of dry down.

Although the fragrance is a unisex scent, I would describe it as rather heavy and masculine, due to the very smoky note and the tobacco. Also more for a man +30 who knows exactly what he wants and likes to stand out both with his personality and his scent. It is definitely more of a winter scent than a summer scent.
5
Scent
7
Longevity
7
Sillage
6
Bottle
UniNoUta

17 Reviews
UniNoUta
UniNoUta
   1  
I guess someone thought this was interesting.
The Goodsir website describes it as "RADICAL / MYSTICAL / STATEMENT" - wow! That sounds really exciting!

Er, none of the above. Okay, maybe it smells a touch mystical, but "mystical" in the way the apartment of that chick you know who claims to be a wiccan priestess (but by day she's an office assistant for a cosmetic dentist) smells.

It's perfectly nice. Incense, a little campfire smoke, sweet booze and amber... You've smelled it before, even if you've never smelled it before. Perfectly nice, perfectly uninteresting, far more more commonplace than it thinks it is, just like the wiccan priestess.
10
Scent
9
Longevity
8
Sillage
MossGreen
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MossGreen
MossGreen
Very helpful Review    10  
Freedom. And the consciousness of oneself
Now I can't avoid it anymore...I tigered like a restless animal around the wooded wood scents, searching desperately for something that makes the fire in me blaze again.
Enthusiastic I found beautiful scents, disappointed they let me take a break again after a few days.
And the longed-for little sample lay all the time in my little "Still testing" can.

The description sounded interesting, as did the comments, but I didn't expect too much..smoke, resin and whiskey...sounds cool, I'll try it out.

Then it came on the skin, on a damp cold spring morning, which promised to become a warm day.
What's that? What's that? A campfire! Freshly ignited with the highest quality wood, long and extensively dried, without smoke, birch! Burns wonderfully crackling and effective.
I love the smell of campfires, although I used to be ashamed of smelling like a forest gnome and had to put the jacket in the laundry.
But as you know, you mature into what you are supposed to become and now I find myself again, there and away, attracted by a smoky-authentic smell of wood...no ham and no smoked fish...fire! Wonderful campfire.
Wow.... i was impressed by this lifelike depiction of an energetic event and I indulged in the scent, let myself be overwhelmed by it and carried to times when life was still okay, when one was shallowly tipsy, relaxed and overjoyed to share beautiful moments and evenings with the people of trust, with fire, warmth and freedom
A good keyword..freedom...if this one had a smell, it would be Bois D´Ascèse. Wild, exuberant, carefree and at the same time relaxed gentleness and generosity.
For the first time I wrapped myself in this fragrance before a working day that promised to be quite exhausting. 10 hours in the open air, wrapped in crowds of people who want to be counseled and cared for.
I couldn't have found a better companion.
This wild and at the same time gentle brew supported me reliably and made me the best I could be that day.
I gave my goods away to those who might need them and did not let myself be unsettled by those who spray poison around themselves at every opportunity.
Armor? Perhaps... but I feel much more completed by this fragrance, as if it provided the support for the fire that is inherent in each of us. In any case, he is in full harmony with mine.
The smoke withdrew and instead of burnt soil left behind a fertile, spicy soil, habitat for trees and herbs of all kinds.
In this phase the fragrance snuggled up to me like a second skin, merged with what I had experienced and interwoven with me to form a dignified figure who knows what she wants...how could I not understand this for all these years?
Self-confidence...in the deepest sense of the meaning of that word. Not ego, but rather the awareness of who you are, where you want to go and what you want, what you want to put up with and what transcends your own limits.

The base is the most beautiful thing about this fragrance. Earthy, cleansing, warm and comforting.
Somehow Bois d ´ascèse inspires me to think, to distance myself and to turn to myself.
It may be presumptuous to attribute this quite powerful effect to one fragrance alone, and I am not saying that he alone is responsible for it.
But sometimes a person simply lacks a little push, a little lamb on the scales, a drop that overflows the barrel, another metaphor of their choice.....
And for me Naomi Goodsir did exactly that with this creation.

I usually keep myself quite objective in my comments, but here I leave this to more experienced noses and content myself with describing my subjective impressions, which touched me very much.
I can't afford him yet, but as soon as I can, he'll move in with me.
(Many thanks to Dory for the bottling that changed my life)
3 Replies
jtd

484 Reviews
jtd
jtd
Helpful Review    6  
why frankincense? what is niche?
Frankincense, it’s the new black.

Bois d’Ascese is a good, solid fragrance. It’s handsome. It smells like frankincense. I’ve smelled frankincense many times and love it. Most people do.

There’s the hazard.

Bois d’Ascese falls prey to the Amber Trap. Take a ‘ready-made’ botanical such as frankincense or labdanum (or rose, or vetiver...). Then build a fragrance around the central component by applying olfactory make-up. Enhance it. Detail it. Build a Greek chorus around it for christ’s sake. Just make sure it’s dead center and don’t stray off course. This style of sola-nota perfumery is conservative by definition. It’s what has lead every niche house to have an unmistakeable Amber which very often is nearly indistinguishable from any other house’s Amber

I can’t argue with the fragrance. It’s lovely and would be wonderful to smell on someone in passing. But to say that the perfumer has made frankincense beautiful is like saying that the make-up artist made Cary Grant handsome. I know that it puts perfumer Julien Rasquinet and designer Naomi Goodsir in the spotlight, but releasing a frankincense perfume in the niche perfumery market is not far conceptually from making a fresh aquatic for the mainstream men’s perfume market. I’ve never smelled, Cuir Velours, Goodsir’s other perfume, but the name alone leads me to a cynical frame of mind. I imagine the third fragrance will be an eponymous Oud, and following soon thereafter will be an Amber, a Musk and a nouveau Vanilla.

‘Niche’ can mean so many things. It can refer to an alternate strategy to the mainstreams, it can describe a sensibility, it can mean something particular that has spun off from the norm into its own little eddy. Naomi Goodsir convinces me that niche in perfumery means the same thing that ‘young’ and ‘modern’ mean in fashion--code for the most recent iteration of an easily identified item.

from scent hurdle.com
1 Replies
8
Scent
10
Longevity
7.5
Sillage
5
Bottle
Drseid

742 Reviews
Drseid
Drseid
   4  
Looking For The Smell of a Campfire In A Bottle? Now You Have Found It...
Bois d'Ascese opens with a quick shot of straight-up whiskey before quickly transitioning to the key heart note of smoked cadewood incense (cadewood smells quite similar to cedar to my nose, at least). The scent is quite minimalist in its implementation, but the smoked cadewood is just about as close as you can get to standing right next to an active wood burning fireplace or campfire all ablaze. This is bone-dry and very, very smoky. While the official note list says one should expect cinnamon in the heart I confess I smell none. What *is* present to a minor degree is an underlying completely dry ashy tobacco note that supports the smoked cade through the dry-down with only a very subtle relatively dry amber adding just a hint of softness to the receding smoke at the very end of the scent's life-cycle. Projection is very good and longevity is exceptional.

Bois d'Ascese is a fine opening salvo from the house of Naomi Goodsir. It does not contain many notes and does not develop much staying linearly smoky throughout, but unlike so many smoky scents on the market that get the scent of real smoke wrong, this one is absolutely a reference scent when it comes to presenting what an actual wood burning fire smells like. I confess that smelling like a campfire is not really something one strives for on a daily basis (or at least not this reviewer), but given the right special occasion to shine Bois d'Ascese gets the job done with aplomb and is the first one I would reach for every time. I will not join the many folks that feel this is "fragrance of the year 2012," and the price point is more than a bit steep, but definitely consider me as highly impressed and eager to sample more from the house as new fragrances are released. Bois d'Ascese earns an excellent 4 out of 5 stars.
1 Replies

Statements

BoBoChampBoBoChamp 30 days ago
7.5
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
A slightly boozy smoky-woody Winter fragrance, balanced by a gentlier spicy earthy-woody base. Male-oriented. Keep sprays to a minimum!
SamuelGustavSamuelGustav 3 years ago
The perfect fireplace feeling
HermeshHermesh 5 years ago
9
Scent
10
Longevity
7.5
Sillage
5
Bottle
Unique smoky scent. Not kind of church incense, but rather burning autumn leaves and pine needles. The base is beautifully warm!

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