Nuit de Bakélite 2017

Nuit de Bakélite by Naomi Goodsir
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8.3 / 10     102 RatingsRatingsRatings
Nuit de Bakélite is a popular perfume by Naomi Goodsir for women and men and was released in 2017. The scent is green-floral. Projection and longevity are above-average. It is still in production.
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Perfumer

Isabelle Doyen

Fragrance Notes

Top Notes Top NotesGalbanum, Saffron, Angelica root
Heart Notes Heart NotesIndian tuberose, Ylang-ylang, Davana
Base Notes Base NotesKaro Karounde, Styrax, Birch tar, Cade juniper wood, Labdanum, Musk

Ratings

Scent

8.3 (102 Ratings)

Longevity

8.5 (91 Ratings)

Sillage

8.2 (92 Ratings)

Bottle

7.3 (85 Ratings)
Submitted by OPomone, last update on 18.10.2020.
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Reviews

7.5
Scent
9
Longevity
9
Sillage
6
Bottle
Anarlan
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Anarlan
Anarlan
Top Review    18  
Who are you, Sally Bowles?
My first pictures at Nuit were those of a nightly Art Deco salon in warm, subdued light, surfaces of dark lacquer and shiny black plastic. Is there art deco furniture made of bakelite? There are vases standing around, they look like this, bouquets in them, lush, a numbing, dusty flowery scent is in the air. Are they all real flowers between the polished chrome? On the walls hang mirrors that have been overhauled by age, the floor is made of old, but light, fragrant parquet. I'm in a quiet conversation with a creature that seems to come from a bygone era, yet seems completely modern. Its androgynous outlines are reflected by the mirrored surfaces. The short, dark hairs cling to the slender, pale face and emphasize its boyishness. A Sally Bowles that seems to come from the future, or did she fall through a wormhole from the artist's dressing room of a Berlin cabaret of the twenties? One chats, flirts, the conversation an indeterminate game with ideas, possibilities, reflections. Is that attraction? I can't get rid of the feeling of being part of a production. What is real here, what is only scenery? A quiet uneasiness is spreading. Something suddenly becomes too much for me, paralyses me. This dusty density. I want to think clearly, suck in the cold air that smells of rain.

I have to get out of here
Naomi Goodsir is an artist who prefers to show herself in newly interpreted, elaborately crafted set pieces of classic clothing - especially traditional men's and uniform fashion - and has made this arsenal part of her work. Oversized collars, ties, costume jackets, hunting hats, feathered headdresses, braces, leather, the archaic, vintage and futuristic, the dark, fetish, all of these populate her creative, expressive cosmos, in which her hat-making and the production of sophisticated handcrafted accessories form the heart of her work. Nuit is one of her first fragrances created under her own label. Before that, she worked as a perfume-inspired artist (she is not a perfumer by nature) for Annick Goutal and was responsible, together with Isabelle Doyen, for example, for "Ambre Fétiche" (which I liked very much). When you look at her oeuvre, you expect her to devote herself to the subject of tuberose in her own very special way. A play of archaic, artificial and natural elements, and this in her own expressive handwriting - and one is not disappointed.

Whether this is portable or suitable as a utility product is of course a different matter, but more on this later...

For tuberoses you need strong nerves in many respects.

They are diva-like bulbous plants which, in our latitudes, adorn themselves only one summer long with their elegant, waxy white flowers floating on slender stems and their incomparably intense fragrance. The tuberose is an enchanting beauty, which exerts itself sensually and confidently, only to remain snap-frozen under a tuft of green leaves the following year, just as if it were unable - just like the weather-sensitive, nervous bitch - to step in front of the curtain once again, just one last time, and accept the never-ending applause of its admirers
Tuberoses (like all divas) have their fans and those who turn up their noses. Whoever sticks his nose into Robert Piguet's "Fracas" will, in relation to the typical tuberose scent, have quickly made his decision to belong to one camp or the other. I am honestly divided here. "Fascinatingly tiring" is probably the right word to use if someone were to ask me for my briefest description of my feelings about this particular genus of white-flowered plants. Heavy, sensual, very feminine, nocturnal, narcotic, robbing the senses - that's more or less how I would describe myself.

Tuberose takes a central position in Nuit, but is well flanked by other fragrance components, and Naomi Goodsir gives it an interpretation that exorcises the ultra-feminine, dominant femme fatale. Instead, she exposes her androgyny and a play on ambivalence. At the beginning there are almost rough, grassy, green-nutty, cool aspects reminiscent of fresh, tart plant juice (Angelika; the green eye shadow of Sally Bowles), balsamic-creamy (Galbanum; her warm physicality), woody and earthy (Styrax; we are in an old building), plus a dusty, dry density (this place should actually be aired ... Maybe someone will tell me which tricks Mrs. Goodsir uses to create the dustiness in some of her scents, also in "Ambre"). All of this somehow possibly gives an impression of plastic. Or of rather green tuberoses in night-black plastic vases. I do not know. I can't really understand this plastic association and, to prove me wrong, I smelled various black caps on bottles, hoping I would find out what bakelite smells like - no way.

But it still fits: black, shiny surfaces, reflecting, something old, yet modern, almost futuristic, night. This impression stays with me, while the Nuit tuberose unfolds its various fascinating aspects and casts a strange spell on you. My family, however, has a unanimous opinion, and so I could dose as homoeopathically as I wanted (you should always do that with the fragrance anyway, the performance is otherwise literally suffocating):

Let's get out of here!
Conclusion: A handcrafted, undoubtedly high-quality, incredibly densely woven fragrance with a narcotic performance, which should only be used in micro-spray bursts (and even these effortlessly fill entire rooms). Minimalistically dosed, however, it shows its many facets and its ambivalent appeal.

PS: I still can't really decide what rating I give him in the end. Starting at 8.5, corrected down to 7.5, I'm now tending back up again.

Who are you, Sally Bowles?
15 Replies
9.5
Scent
8
Longevity
8
Sillage
10
Bottle
FvSpee
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FvSpee
FvSpee
Top Review    29  
Bakelite~Night
I had been looking forward to the Nuit de Bakélite test, because I vaguely remembered having read many good things about it. However, because of the name I had expected a rather bulky, difficult scent. When the time came last night, it was (again) one of those rare moments when I knew I had an exceptional fragrance right under my nose. And a not at all bulky one at that. Nuit de Bakélite is of overwhelming beauty; a gentle but dense and tightly woven fragrance~fabric; dreamlike and wide awake, pacifying and invigorating; grounding and uplifting. This night is flowery, that much is certain; beyond that, my descriptive vocabulary fails here as well: There are no comparisons and no images, hardly any adjectives, and if there are, they seem too trivial. You can't go wrong with a characterization as 'green' with a lot of galbanum, but to be honest, I wouldn't even have thought of that on my own. Besides, it seems to me that everyone feels the Bakelite night differently, as if it were a mirror or a canvas, so that there would be nothing left but to subject oneself to the sensory experience
It is enough to have a look at the previous comments and short comments, most of which are fascinating, but hardly any of them agree in their description. I can't understand some things either, neither the dust from Parma's hymn, nor the (name-giving) resin from Stanze's whimsical memory. Therefore I have to ask again for understanding that I abstain from a description and limit myself to my almost mute admiration and enthusiasm for Nuit de Bakélite. And to a few paragraphs on secondary aspects of the fragrance, far enough away from the unspeakable centre that I can find words for it:

Naomi Goodsir is a brand that I didn't know until very recently, but I think it's worth testing. So far there are only about half a dozen fragrances. How Mrs. Goodsir has managed this, I do not know either. The lady herself seems to be a somewhat older and kinky Australian businesswoman with a penchant for the artistic, who "makes fashion and fragrances"; and for her small fragrance series she has hired two experienced perfumers from different "stables": Mr Julien Rasquinet and, for this fragrance, Mrs Isabelle Doyen. In spite of these "coincidences", the line is characterized by a uniform character: the fragrances impress as special, innovative and of high quality. They are all a little soft and dreamy, and despite all the artificiality (in the old, best sense of the word), at least in my opinion, absolutely wearable. The prices for niche fragrances are not yet in the red range (50 ml 140 Euro).

With a fragrance of this exceptional goodness, I take a closer look at the perfumer. Mrs. Doyen has worked almost exclusively for Annick Goutal up to now and is responsible for some very beautiful fragrances known to me, which I found so special and peculiar that even years after testing them, they are still in my nose, such as the almost simultaneously created, very similar and both very beautiful "Ambre Fétiche" and "Encense Flamboyant", the really very beautiful and unfortunately already discontinued "Mimosa" and the highly original "Ninfeo Mio" (which always makes me think of a delicious green salad with dill and lemon juice) Also the "Eau de Monsieur" is from her, which I bought once, but then found to be too volatile and too little special. I feel a connection to this artist, but the Bakelite Night should be her masterpiece
Although I had not yet had the bottle in my hand, I give him ten points. The glass is of clear, simple form, functional and yet beautiful; I love this kind of packaging, which is a worthy setting for a beautiful work of art. With the small bottle (50 ml), of course, the cap seems somewhat oversized and reminds me of a lampshade. A nice one though. Even more beautiful is the label, for which - especially for the typeface~Type and the extreme concentration, I would also have liked to give 11 points.

From now on I will also rate the name of the fragrance in every fragrance comment. This one gets an even ten. As the names of this series are all very beautiful, so is Iris Cendré (which is also a nice fragrance, by the way!). They would all be worthy of a beautiful, literary translation into German, which could then also appear on the label in gently historicizing letters. "Waechserne Schwert~Lilie" would then have to be the name of the fragrance just mentioned, and this one would have to be called "Nacht von Bakelit" or even better "Bakelit~Nacht", possibly with a double and diagonal wave as a dividing line, as found in some old prints. I don't know why this scent is called "Nuit de Bakélite", because it doesn't seem very dark to me, nor do I smell (unlike punch) synthetic resin. But the highest score is given because the name is short and yet tremendously concise. And even more poetic. My goodness, how beautiful this is: "Bakelite~night": what a picture! A night as black as bakelite, that old synthetic resin, from which 100 years ago the telephones with the heavy handsets and buzzing forks and the light switches with rotary knob were made; a picture as "pitch-black", but at the same time this tension of nature and artificiality: The night, when we think of a starry night or a love night, of original, natural, and then the plastic, which is again not a despicable and poisonous PVC, but an antique product of the chemical industry. As long as such names that hit the heart are still possible, how embarrassing are the garrulous word creations, for which the label must have excess length.

My assessment of poetic beauty and wearability of the fragrance is not undisputed. Mrs. von Spee perceived "aircraft fuel" as the predominant note, and professional co-tester B "Hubba-Bubba and toilet stones". Both rated Nuit de Bakélite on a scale from zero to ten at about minus three. To what extent this will influence my considerations for buying the fragrance remains to be seen.

I don't give ten points for the fragrance, if only to prevent Parma from becoming jealous. I'm not going to deny him his mistress.
21 Replies
8.5
Scent
7
Longevity
7
Sillage
Stanze
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Stanze
Stanze
Top Review    41  
In the soft glow of the tube radio
As a child I owned a radio from the company Nordmende. I can't tell today whether it was a Tannhäuser or a Rigoletto. A tube radio, anyway. I turned it on before I fell asleep, trying to find stations in the world. It had such great place names on it. The whole world was open to me, incomprehensible languages and exotic music. In the soft light of the optical display unit I read many a book (although I should have been asleep long ago). The dust on the tubes warmed up and the radio began to emit a slight smell of fiery dust and bakelite. As an amateur radio operator I can travel auditory and olfactory with Nuit de Bakélite to this area of my childhood.

Family tester M also confirms that Nuit de Bakélite smells like bakelite. Because he often broke through buttons on old devices (e.g. his Philips Uranus) and they smelled like Nuit de Bakélite. So maybe it doesn't trigger such a nice memory for him.

In a nutshell, Nuit de Bakélite smells for me flowery-woody-synthetic, because bakelite is synthetic. Not synthetic in the sense of fragrance. Family tester M claims that Nuit de Bakélite smells of new rubber boots at the beginning. That doesn't sound good, but I like it.

After spraying on, the projection is not as strong. But then it becomes much stronger (must first come to operating temperature) and goes back again after a few hours (if the dust is already partially burnt). Unfortunately Nuit de Bakélite doesn't last as well with me as with some others here, about 6 to 7 hours.

Nuit de Bakélite can be worn by woman, man and everyone else all year round at any occasion except sports. Of course, Nuit de Bakélite is particularly suitable for visits or work in technical museums, amateur radio competitions, 50s parties and flea markets
24 Replies
10
Scent
FrauHolle

1 Review
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FrauHolle
FrauHolle
Very helpful Review    31  
Aircraft propeller acquittal
First of all, of course, contradiction, to all 25 quick-time statement typists and virtuoso comment writers.
Tuberose may be in it, but it can't be smelled. Tuberose smells much rosier and more tubiger.

So let's get immediately to the main actor in the fragrance: Angelica root (or fem. Angelica root):
Poison.

Homoeopaths at that time (1905) were desperate for this witch's herb root, found by chance, quasi as a by-product of coal distillation, because even with a dilution down, or Potentiation on D 7634 still left some olfactory impressions on the test persons, who then settled down as a registered association, AWV (Angie-Wutz-Verein), and founded a perfume manufactory under the name 'Naomi Goodsir', in order to market the stuff, of which they now had enough, under a catchy name.

What a lot of people don't know: Waste products from this highly toxic (C6-H6-O.C-H2-O)x compound have been processed into all kinds of hard plastic knick-knacks for simplicity's sake, such as black telephones with turntables and detachable handsets. (affluent society, high-lift, and forklift)

So if you listen very closely to the bottle, you can still imagine it today, the quiet reputation of fountain pens, radios and printed circuit boards. Hach, I could write an audio book about it.
9 Replies
8.5
Scent
9
Longevity
9
Sillage
8
Bottle
Augusto
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Augusto
Augusto
Top Review    11  
Plastics factory on wet ground
This scent is hard for me to describe.

Already after ten minutes really fat radiation. Usurious.
A thick cloud lies down and a kind of night mood develops.
There's strict-tart angelica and tuberose with no sweetness. Resolution direction earth - Patchouli?
The tuberose makes the fragrance flowery, but in the foreground is a surreal comic scene with a sepia background. A plastics factory on wet earth. Longing mood.
Or: A fleshy herbal chewing gum with a good portion of eccentric.
At the end an indescribably woody, tangy base note.

Very independent, very special.
5 Replies

Statements

BoBoChampBoBoChamp 69 days ago
8
Scent
9
Longevity
8
Sillage
A slightly challenging earthy-spicy and bitter green-floral Fall fragrance, balanced by a dusty leathery resinous-woody base. Very Unisex!

Perfume Classification by the Community


Photos by the Community

by Freshdennis
by Freshdennis
pulsierendes Tuberosenherz in der schroffen Dunkelheit
by Parma
by Freshdennis
by Freshdennis

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