Cool, distinguished, alive. As a gourmand: Chinese cucumber salad with sweet and hot chilli sauce, nicely chilled. As landscape: Grassy low mountain range with spicy herbs. Refined leather: a cow with royal leather bell-band.
Muted and distant. As gourmand: Tart spice cake, creamy cocoa almost without sugar. As a still life: Splendid betauter bouquet of roses on a bowl with cool, creamy whipped butter.
Delicate, soft, balsamic. Sometimes light and sometimes dark. As a gourmand: Almond cream. As a landscape: Spicy forests, resinous and flowering.
The penultimate Vermeire-Duchaufour I test and comment is the most beautiful one so far. As Turandot, whom I never contradict anyway, has already stated, it is (also) a bit confused and directionless. I don't like confused scents per se, but here I was ready to drift and get involved with him. In order to describe him, however, only dream sequences work (as already with Mumbai Mumpitz). Even if here without curry sausage and Berlin city cleaning.
Also the naming and conception seems a bit confusing. Mohur is an Indian coin that was common at the time of the Mughal Empire. Something like "thaler" in our country. Why exactly this name was chosen is not explained, why there are only 5 points for it. All fragrances in the series are intended to illuminate a historical aspect of India, this one here "the Mughal era and the era of British India".
This is a big chunk that even this fragrance rich in ingredients does not help. The Mogul era began around 1500, there was not much to see of the British in India, and the British disappeared in 1947, when the Moguls had already been away from the window for 100 years
The Mughal Emperors were the last, before the British, to unite India (halfway) under one (namely their) rule, and the special thing was that they were Muslims, while the majority of their subjects were not. They were very devoted to art: the world-famous Taj Mahal is a Mogul tree. Since the Islam practiced by the Moguls was of a rather liberal direction and especially did not adhere to the strict ban on paintings, we also have many impressive portrait paintings
Among others, this is the beautiful More-Un-Nisa, later known under the honorary title "Nur Jahan" (Light of the World), to whom, according to Neela Vermeire, this fragrance is especially dedicated (and of whom I do not know what she has to do with the Mohur coins, perhaps her face was imprinted on some).
She was the twentieth (and last) wife of the Mughal Emperor Jahangir. I'll leave the twenty wives stuff in the room. But what should be much more special is that when the emperor fell head over heels in love with her and asked her to marry him, she was already thirty-four years old, widowed and a mother.
She must have been a strong woman, because not only did she participate in the government almost equally with her husband, but she also provided her entire extremely ramified family, poor refugees from Persia, with extremely high posts in politics and administration.
Ingratitude is the world's reward, for her own brother, to whom she had given a super job at court, locked her away after the death of the emperor because he had his own ideas for the succession to the throne. So she spent the last 18 years of her life under house arrest. But still: Not only was her head left on her neck, but also money and personnel, so that she had enough time to pursue various hobbies such as planning her own mausoleum.
According to Neela Vermeire's website, a great hobby of hers is said to have been perfumery, especially the one based on rose oils. But I don't know if Neela is fibbing a bit to make her fragrance more interesting. In any case, rose is clearly perceptible here, but so closely interwoven into a whole panopticon of other notes that one cannot, or at most in the heart note, speak of a rose scent.
Mohur is a beautiful fragrance if you are willing to get involved in a somewhat confusing composition. Although the series is probably aimed primarily at women, I think it is also very wearable for men. For a Vermeire it is of very good durability (about 12 hours, but the second half of it only very close and without further development, the music plays before). The images and colours are varied, but the temperature of the fragrance is cool and fresh throughout.