04/01/2013
Greysolon
74 Reviews
Greysolon
Helpful Review
6
An American-Woodiental fusion
A few weeks ago I was reading about Neil Morris’ fragrance line and was immediately intrigued. Many of his creations seem inspired by northern landscapes I still consider home. When I placed my sample order I selected fragrances with notes and descriptions reminiscent of those northern places with one exception: Quest. When my samples arrived I didn’t want to begin with a fragrance that might sway my opinion about the line due to any emotional or environmental connection. I wanted to start in unchartered territory, so I started with Quest
My attempt at objectivity lasted as long as it took Quest to reach its woody base notes. In spite of its oriental genre, Quest took me back home.
First, the opening. It is one of the nicest settings of bergamot I’ve ever experienced. That may have to do with the ozone note diffusing the bergamot and giving it greater dimension. Whatever the reason, it’s the sort of balance of citrus and tea notes you imagine when reading a description of how bergamot should smell.
As Quest dries down it begins to reveal its oriental roots through the usual line up of florals and patchouli. Although there’s a hint of soapiness here and there, and the patchouli blossoms to near 1967 proportions, these are passing moments which eventually blend to create Quest’s oriental heart. But when the forest of wood notes rise up out of the base Quest parts from being just another oriental fragrance and becomes something of an American take on an oriental. If the oriental genre is an European idealization of what is “Oriental”, then Quest is my idealized sense of an American-Oriental fusion.
Honestly, I wouldn't have made that connection without knowing Quest’s American provenance. Nonetheless, Neil Morris’ treatment of the genre seems decidedly different than the way a European perfumer would approach the ingredients, especially the wood notes. On the NMF website Quest is described as having base notes of “precious woods” although there is nothing “precious” -exotic or fussy- about them. Combined with myrrh, the woods take on a quality that is slightly rough hewn and smell as familiar as the forests I know. Also, when Quest reaches its final stage the woods are equal to, if not slightly stronger than, the overall oriental aspect of the scent. Emphasizing the woods while using the exotic essences in a supporting role gives Quest a feeling of familiarity and comfort. That might make it a suitable option for those who would otherwise steer clear of traditional masculine orientals.
Who knew you could successfully pair a fragrance consisting of elegant Euro-orientalist roots with a Woolrich flannel shirt?
My attempt at objectivity lasted as long as it took Quest to reach its woody base notes. In spite of its oriental genre, Quest took me back home.
First, the opening. It is one of the nicest settings of bergamot I’ve ever experienced. That may have to do with the ozone note diffusing the bergamot and giving it greater dimension. Whatever the reason, it’s the sort of balance of citrus and tea notes you imagine when reading a description of how bergamot should smell.
As Quest dries down it begins to reveal its oriental roots through the usual line up of florals and patchouli. Although there’s a hint of soapiness here and there, and the patchouli blossoms to near 1967 proportions, these are passing moments which eventually blend to create Quest’s oriental heart. But when the forest of wood notes rise up out of the base Quest parts from being just another oriental fragrance and becomes something of an American take on an oriental. If the oriental genre is an European idealization of what is “Oriental”, then Quest is my idealized sense of an American-Oriental fusion.
Honestly, I wouldn't have made that connection without knowing Quest’s American provenance. Nonetheless, Neil Morris’ treatment of the genre seems decidedly different than the way a European perfumer would approach the ingredients, especially the wood notes. On the NMF website Quest is described as having base notes of “precious woods” although there is nothing “precious” -exotic or fussy- about them. Combined with myrrh, the woods take on a quality that is slightly rough hewn and smell as familiar as the forests I know. Also, when Quest reaches its final stage the woods are equal to, if not slightly stronger than, the overall oriental aspect of the scent. Emphasizing the woods while using the exotic essences in a supporting role gives Quest a feeling of familiarity and comfort. That might make it a suitable option for those who would otherwise steer clear of traditional masculine orientals.
Who knew you could successfully pair a fragrance consisting of elegant Euro-orientalist roots with a Woolrich flannel shirt?
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