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Notes07/23/2012
new sweetness
Love in Paris is a tidy, smart floral, accessible yet creatively distinctive. The flower note is broad, a sort of idealized rich, dry white/pink flower. But if the flower is the noun, fruit and herb are the adjectives. The fruit Love gives you is more the flavorful scratchiness of fruit skin—peach? plum?---than the meat of the fruit. It keeps Love from veering anywhere near syrup. The sweetness comes from the anise, not the fruit. Fruity sweetness is a lingua franca of commercial feminine perfumery, but here sweetness and fruit flavor are separate elements combined to mimic a more vernacular sweetness. Clever, actually. It’s a sly sweetness that would appeal to many noses.
In most designer releases, sweetness is two-dimensional. More volume-up, volume-down than nuance. Do you prefer 8 lumps or 12? Love gives us a compact but more three-dimensional sweetness that is a perfect backdrop for the florals. Anise also lends that chilly feel that makes the flowers feel just pulled from the florist’s fridge.
I’m a fan of this perfumer, Aurélien Guichard. Love proves that he is able to work in designer, niche and traditional house (ie. Guerlain) with equal fluency. Love, Bond’s Chinatown, Guerlain’s Anisia Bella show some riffs on similar compositional themes without repetition or monotony. No mean trick in contemporary perfumery.
In most designer releases, sweetness is two-dimensional. More volume-up, volume-down than nuance. Do you prefer 8 lumps or 12? Love gives us a compact but more three-dimensional sweetness that is a perfect backdrop for the florals. Anise also lends that chilly feel that makes the flowers feel just pulled from the florist’s fridge.
I’m a fan of this perfumer, Aurélien Guichard. Love proves that he is able to work in designer, niche and traditional house (ie. Guerlain) with equal fluency. Love, Bond’s Chinatown, Guerlain’s Anisia Bella show some riffs on similar compositional themes without repetition or monotony. No mean trick in contemporary perfumery.
