12/12/2023
Intersport
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Mon allotment Calone©
Nomenclature, an offshoot of the Aedes de Venustas brand, committed itself, at least with the first bottles inspired by Erlenmeyer flasks, and the somewhat technical use of a _ symbol between the name syllables, to the synthetic components frequently used and partly developed by the major fragrance manufacturers, as here, Calone.
Calone, here I already see rolling eyes, inner reactions like 'I'm out of here', Calone this unusual and basically completely non-natural, and often - as soon as staged in too eccentric proportions - annoying material, which had to lie dormant for two decades and only in the 80's as a lily of the valley accentuator slowly but then as a seemingly unstoppable wave of aquatic fragrances and probably made many of them possible in the first place, yes, exactly this Calone should be at the center of fluo_ral.
Even if 'molecular fragrances' have not been a special feature since Helmut Lang's Velviona (2001), and are certainly not a novelty in 2015, I give the New Yorkers at least a small dose of chutzpah for putting this fragrance at the center. What's more, Nathalie Feisthauer is an author who has created something accessible and sophisticated with Must de Cartier Pour Homme (2000) and something more idiosyncratic with Series 6 Synthetic, Tar and Soda (2004).
Now the discrepancy between how supposed fragrances should smell (think here of any ambroxan derivatives, Iso-E or Cashmeran opinions) and in 'real life', i.e. quasi in chemical-social interaction with other building blocks, or in dilution and context, is quite clear. in dilution and context - and it is precisely this that fluo_ral makes use of; anyone expecting sweet, stale wetness or an artificial, melon-like scent is being led around by the nose - fluo_ral is as far removed from figurative aquatics as New York is from the Mediterranean; rather, it seems to me that Mme Feisthauer perhaps wanted to refer back to Calone's earliest efforts, where the local meadows, gardens and green spaces were in view with the accentuation of lily of the valley notes. fluo_ral, is more like an English or Central European kitchen garden, in late spring, all about rhubarb and tomato leaf, crisp, transparent, unmistakable, with a hint of cassis buds again freshened and acidified.
The pairing of this fruit/vegetable trifecta seems almost natural, but perhaps also makes fluo_ral a touch lighter and more translucent than other rhubarb fragrances. To stay more or less in house, Aedes de Venustas' Signature (2012) by Duchaufour certainly served as a reference, as rhubarb has been mentioned before as a favorite note of the Aedes founders. Fluo_ral certainly no longer has the novelty bonus of the monothematic, milky Rhubarb (2003) from Comme des Garçons Series 5: Sherbet, which was also designed by Duchaufour. Also, I can hardly perceive any differences in the actual rhubarb note and I don't know whether there are fragrances that are oriented towards British rhubarb variations, German-speaking or others, but rhubarb apparently remains something that perfumers such as Landi (more baroque) or Laudamiel (more realistic or abstract), in addition to Duchaufour, have repeatedly placed at the center of their work.
But what about the calone, to which fluo_ral is ultimately dedicated? On the skin, there is no trace of it, fans might feel cheated of the fragrance, but the next day on the paper blotter it finally shows up, in outline and also only in a correspondingly reduced intensity with all its artificial facets, which in turn fit into the original concept of the series. In the meantime, the brand has dispensed with the aforementioned _ symbol, and the newer releases also appear to be bottled in more conventional bottles.
Calone, here I already see rolling eyes, inner reactions like 'I'm out of here', Calone this unusual and basically completely non-natural, and often - as soon as staged in too eccentric proportions - annoying material, which had to lie dormant for two decades and only in the 80's as a lily of the valley accentuator slowly but then as a seemingly unstoppable wave of aquatic fragrances and probably made many of them possible in the first place, yes, exactly this Calone should be at the center of fluo_ral.
Even if 'molecular fragrances' have not been a special feature since Helmut Lang's Velviona (2001), and are certainly not a novelty in 2015, I give the New Yorkers at least a small dose of chutzpah for putting this fragrance at the center. What's more, Nathalie Feisthauer is an author who has created something accessible and sophisticated with Must de Cartier Pour Homme (2000) and something more idiosyncratic with Series 6 Synthetic, Tar and Soda (2004).
Now the discrepancy between how supposed fragrances should smell (think here of any ambroxan derivatives, Iso-E or Cashmeran opinions) and in 'real life', i.e. quasi in chemical-social interaction with other building blocks, or in dilution and context, is quite clear. in dilution and context - and it is precisely this that fluo_ral makes use of; anyone expecting sweet, stale wetness or an artificial, melon-like scent is being led around by the nose - fluo_ral is as far removed from figurative aquatics as New York is from the Mediterranean; rather, it seems to me that Mme Feisthauer perhaps wanted to refer back to Calone's earliest efforts, where the local meadows, gardens and green spaces were in view with the accentuation of lily of the valley notes. fluo_ral, is more like an English or Central European kitchen garden, in late spring, all about rhubarb and tomato leaf, crisp, transparent, unmistakable, with a hint of cassis buds again freshened and acidified.
The pairing of this fruit/vegetable trifecta seems almost natural, but perhaps also makes fluo_ral a touch lighter and more translucent than other rhubarb fragrances. To stay more or less in house, Aedes de Venustas' Signature (2012) by Duchaufour certainly served as a reference, as rhubarb has been mentioned before as a favorite note of the Aedes founders. Fluo_ral certainly no longer has the novelty bonus of the monothematic, milky Rhubarb (2003) from Comme des Garçons Series 5: Sherbet, which was also designed by Duchaufour. Also, I can hardly perceive any differences in the actual rhubarb note and I don't know whether there are fragrances that are oriented towards British rhubarb variations, German-speaking or others, but rhubarb apparently remains something that perfumers such as Landi (more baroque) or Laudamiel (more realistic or abstract), in addition to Duchaufour, have repeatedly placed at the center of their work.
But what about the calone, to which fluo_ral is ultimately dedicated? On the skin, there is no trace of it, fans might feel cheated of the fragrance, but the next day on the paper blotter it finally shows up, in outline and also only in a correspondingly reduced intensity with all its artificial facets, which in turn fit into the original concept of the series. In the meantime, the brand has dispensed with the aforementioned _ symbol, and the newer releases also appear to be bottled in more conventional bottles.
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