Héliotrope (2012) Eau de Parfum

Héliotrope (Eau de Parfum) by Olivier Durbano
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Héliotrope (Eau de Parfum) is a popular perfume by Olivier Durbano for women and men and was released in 2012. The scent is spicy-woody. It is still in production.

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Perfumer

Olivier Durbano

Fragrance Notes

Top Notes Top NotesAngelica, Chili, Elemi resin, Ginger, Red mandarin, Frankincense
Heart Notes Heart NotesHeliotrope, Magnolia, Nagarmotha, Saffron
Base Notes Base NotesAmbergris, Benzoin, Musk, Myrrh, Sandalwood, Cedarwood

Ratings

Scent

7.9 (20 Ratings)

Longevity

7.8 (15 Ratings)

Sillage

6.3 (15 Ratings)

Bottle

7.6 (18 Ratings)
Submitted by Kankuro, last update on 02.10.2018
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Reviews

7.0/10
Rickbr

190 Reviews
Rickbr
Rickbr
1
Weird, but works
I'm not so fond of this brand signature profile, that usually puts incense and spicy notes on its creations.Something on their final result in this casa and being salty, weird for me but in Heliotrope it seems to work. At first you don't get the heliotrope, only a mineral incense and a peppery and dry green aroma.As it develops on skin you start to smell the sweet almondy heliotrope, slightly reminding you cherries, with a sweet oriental myrrh and benjoin tonality, that gives it a very slightly fruity and sweet incensed hot aroma to the heliotrope. Altough it has a pink color, it seems to me more masculine than feminine.
5.0 5.0 7.5 8.0/10
DemonHead

18 Reviews
DemonHead
DemonHead
5
A compelling creation
French jeweller/perfumer Olivier Durbano has an insatiable approach to his work. His eye-popping collars of semi-precious stones are constructed with both a masterful hand, and a keen consciousness of the raw materials he is working with. In 2012, Durbano chose the stone Heliotrope to feature in his work, and true to his own tradition, it also served as the inspiration behind his latest perfume release, which he revealed at Fragranze in Italy last month.

Heliotrope is known perhaps more commonly as Bloodstone, or Dragonstone; a variety of chalcedony which is chiefly a deep green colour, speckled with rich red jasper. Worn as a talisman to protect against the evil eye, and to aid with blood-related disorders, it has been a stone coveted throughout the ages by both Christians and pagans.
As with all of Durbano's perfumes - one can't help but recognise a hint of antiquity at hand. Not antiquity so much in the sense that his creations are like the classical pillars of perfumery, but rather "antiquity" defined in a primitive sense. Heliotrope is such a scent... one that commands instant reflection... it conjures scenes from archaic ages... of warring empires and primordial battles; of far-flung cities buried in the sand; of the prehistoric asclepions and sanctuaries of healing.
Perhaps more than any other of his accomplished perfume releases, Héliotrope not only memorialises this semi-precious stone, but also tells an ancient narrative.

One does not quite know what to expect when first applying this deep crimson juice, or perhaps if one does, I am almost certain their assumptions would be wrong. Heliotrope opens with a sharp mandarin accord, but it is instantly diminished by a combustable chilli-pepper warmth. A component of many fragrances from the Near East, saffron is a major player here... it is heady and piquant. It's texture is syrupy, almost medicinal in nature, which adds complexity and a sense of luxuriousness. I sense florals - angelica, magnolia, heliotrope - swimming at its heart, but there is also a curious sense of green.
A damp, sodden woodsy green, like the smell of the forest floor after a deluge. I've not smelled Nagarmotha as an isolated raw ingredient, but it is listed as a component here, and I recognise it from other scents like Amouage's Opus VI and Mona di Orio's Oud, and I feel it contributes to this grassy, woody, slightly astringent aspect. Notes of sandalwood and cedar also bring with them a bountiful sense of comfort.
As it develops, Heliotrope feels multi-tiered with layers of warmth and coolness... a huff of musk lends a luke-warm "organic" feel... like the smell of skin at blood-temperature. I ponder for a moment, wondering if this was a deliberate (and genius) attribute to include. Durbano's remarkable and much loved "house accord" of incense and tree resins makes a firm appearance in Héliotrope's drydown... lavish tendrils of myrrh, oliban and benzoin which furnish each of his perfumes with an exquisite earthy, mineralic quality.

There is something resolutely personal about how this perfume blossoms over time... it feels both intimate and curative. I imagine an ancient spa or asclepion with clay pots full of salves, unguents and balms that are rubbed into tired muscles and anoint the wounds of ancient heroes and heroines. Héliotrope, the perfume, stays true to the stone's metaphysical purpose... is indeed reparative and protective.

Once again, Monsieur Durbano's incomparable cognizance of stones and their spiritual meaning makes for a compelling and thought-provoking creation.
One of his very best.
7.5 5.0 7.5 8.0/10
Flaconneur

49 Reviews
Flaconneur
Flaconneur
Helpful Review    4
HÉLIOTROPE by Olivier Durbano
Could it be that Héliotrope by Olivier Durbano deviates from his normal repertoire of gemstone inspired fragrances? Not so much. Most of us are aware of a flower called heliotrope, but there is also a mineral known by the same name, otherwise called bloodstone. The mineral form is usually green in color, with brightly colored red inclusions that resemble blood spots, hence the name bloodstone. Just when you think that Durbano has turned over a new leaf, or stone in this case, we are right back to his original love of gemstones and minerals. Héliotrope is a pleasant surprise for Durbano's Bijoux de Pierres Poemes collection.

Héliotrope opens energetically with a spicy profusion of chili pepper, ginger and angelica root, along with a splash of racy red mandarin. Just as this intensely colored perfume implies, the fragrance has a fiery nature right from the start. To further intrigue, Héliotrope is laden with smoldering incense and resins. Smoky incense is a common thread running through all of Olivier Durbano's fragrance. Incense is a welcome meditative accompaniment for such a vivacious concoction. You might take notice of a few conspicuous peppercorns sitting in the bottom of the bottle. They are a gentle suggestion of the spirited personality within Héliotrope. Durbano's fragrances have been known to include notes that have a medicinal or piney accord, and I'm uncertain as to their origin. Disconcerting at first, this antisepticness settles into the fragrance just in time for the heart's floral pageant. While the linear spicy parade marches on, the heart initiates with a pleasurable blend of flowers. There's vanilla-like heliotrope, citrusy magnolia and pleasant, woody, earthy nagarmotha with its cinnamon and frankincense traces. All of these beautiful florals unite perfectly with a warm, cozy saffron, giving the heart of Héliotrope a subtle Oriental vibe. The base of Héliotrope is rooted in incense, musk, woods and amber. This is a perfect balance for this spicy floral potion giving it substance and a morsel of complexity.

I was unsure about my opinion of Héliotrope upon first testing. Eventually, I found it to be soothing, like a nice hot toddy accompanied by a roaring fire. The spice suggests neither masculine nor feminine, and is a bit predictable from start to finish. Longevity is very good, and it lasted the entire day. While you may not expect much from these "jewelry designer one minute, perfumer the next," types, Durbano's newest offering is a pleasant surprise.

Statements

Fqjcior 21 months ago
So different and so good! Little bit sweet, little bit floral, incensy and woody. Made of contradictions. Perfect sillage and longlasting!+4

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