Unguentum 2015

Unguentum by Onyrico
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7.2 / 1026 Ratings
Unguentum is a perfume by Onyrico for women and men and was released in 2015. The scent is spicy-woody. It is still available to purchase.
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Perfumer

Luca Maffei

Fragrance Notes

Top Notes Top NotesArtemisiaArtemisia CalamusCalamus Mandarin orangeMandarin orange TeaTea CinnamonCinnamon
Heart Notes Heart NotesHoneyHoney SaffronSaffron TobaccoTobacco WineWine
Base Notes Base NotesAmberAmber MuskMusk OpoponaxOpoponax VanillaVanilla CedarwoodCedarwood

Ratings

Scent

7.226 Ratings

Longevity

7.120 Ratings

Sillage

6.522 Ratings

Bottle

7.927 Ratings
Submitted by Franfan20, last update on 25.07.2022.
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Reviews

7.5
Scent
9
Bottle
6
Pricing
Writerhof
Translated Show original Show translation
Writerhof
Writerhof
Very helpful Review    6  
O tempora, o mores!
This saying - O times! O manners! - was coined by Cicero in his speeches against Catilina, recorded by his freedman Marcus Tullius Tiro in an early form of what we now know as shorthand. After being defeated in the consul election for the year 63 BC, a certain Lucius Sergius Catilina plotted a coup d'état. The whole thing was uncovered and indicted in some of his most famous speeches by Marcus Tullius Cicero, who had won the election against Catilina.

Cicero was awarded the title of pater patriae for this, and he is still known today as a famous orator, lawyer, and politician of the late Roman Republic. Catilina, on the other hand, was first banished and later, when he opposed Rome with an army, was killed in a battle.

The time of upheaval, but also of Rome's greatness, is found in Unguentum. Unguentarii were called ointment or fragrance makers in ancient Rome. In ancient Rome, fragrances were presented in the form of ointments or oils and not diluted with alcohol and water as they are today. It is quite possible, therefore, that Cicero, the homo novus, who had attained all the offices of state at the minimum age, regularly supplied himself with new perfumes at the Unguentarius, which he applied after visiting the thermae.

Unguentum of Onyrico reminds here of a successful Roman politician and general like Cicero was. He comes along masculine, has a sharp aftershave note, as one might have used it when shaving in the field. At the same time, the scent comes across as smoky, further evoking the army camp. If the successful army commander returns to Rome, he may cover his head with a laurel wreath as a triumphant - from a slave who whispered to him, always reminded of his own mortality.

As he passes through Rome on his chariot, his own smell mingles with the scents drifting from the small streets of the city. Honey from the parlors of the sweet makers who set up their stalls during the triumphal procession to supply the people with their creations. But there are also other exotic spices mixed in, such as vanilla, which at that time was still separated from the Roman Empire by a large ocean (I always find it difficult to include vanilla notes in the descriptions of such historically inspired fragrances) - or saffron, cinnamon and tea, which must have already seemed very exotic in ancient Rome.

By the time he arrives at the end of the triumphal procession at the Temple of Jupiter on the Capitol, the exhalations of the massive wooden arches erected for the triumphal procession mingle with this melange of scents. Only some of the triumphal arches remain today, as some of them were permanently built of stone or marble. Of that stone, the travertine of Tivoli, is also made the attachment on the cap of Onyrico's Unguentum.

Unguentum was one of the first scents that got me curious about and excited about niche fragrances, even if it's not at the top of my list of niche favorites. It took me a few tries with it before I could do something with it. But it's quite good for a spicy-balsamic scent and in my opinion, although I don't think much of the fixed classification of gender scents, it's a very masculine scent. But that one can also see or smell quite differently than I, you can see from the previous distribution of fragrance owners here. The milliliter price is already not without and scrapes on middle Roman decadence. In this sense: O tempora, o mores!
3 Replies
6
Scent
5
Longevity
5
Sillage
10
Bottle
Drseid

818 Reviews
Drseid
Drseid
   2  
The Good, The Bad and The Split Decision...
Unguentum opens with a warm orange cinnamon spiced black tea accord with a mild synthetic woody undertone. Moving to the early heart, saffron spiced, slightly sweet honeyed resinous opoponax and natural tobacco mingles with the remaining synthetic woods that have grown into co-star status, adding a sharp concrete-like violet tinge. During the late dry-down the synthetic woods swap for more subtle natural smelling ones, joining the remnants of the saffron spice in support of slightly powdery vanilla from the base that is sole star through the finish. Projection is average, as is longevity at 7-9 hours on skin.

Unguentum is an interesting composition that I still after several wearings don't quite understand. The spiced orange tea open smells quite good but almost immediately is marred by initially subtle synthetic woods. Once you get past the open and the tea vacates, the synthetic woods become more of an issue though never get quite out of control as they do in so many other perfumes. The honeyed opoponax works relatively well with the extremely natural smelling tobacco, the latter reminding me of the stuff found in Bright Leaf by Murdock but thankfully *much* more subtle. If the synthetic woods could have disappeared the perfumer might have really had something, but alas they are at their strongest in the key mid-section and are a moderately odd distraction. During the late dry-down the composition completely shifts gears all to the good. Powdery vanilla has been done many, many times before, but Luca Maffei skillfully keeps the powder to a minimum, allowing very subtle woods to shine through sans their earlier synthetic qualities. This may not be the most innovative of finishes, but it certainly is a pleasant one, ending the development on a high note. The bottom line is the 160 Euros per 100ml bottle Unguentum is a bit of a mixed bag but with more good than bad, earning it an "above average" 2.5 to 3 star out of 5 rating and a mild recommendation with reservation.
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