10/18/2021
Vrabec
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AirTiger ashtray with the patina of an unkempt Tuscan Leather jacket.
In the following commentary I will refer to both perfume of the brand Orto Parisi, as well as Nasomatto. For me, the Gualtieri DNA is so accurately recognizable throughout that it would not have needed the division into both brands. Although with Orto Parisis, I increasingly feel that large portions of Nasomatto's standalone DNA are mixed in with each new release up to a point. Black Afghano I recognize quite often, but also Pardon, Duro, Blamage. While this leads to the fact that I would find any Orto Parisi incredibly interesting if I didn't know its siblings, since this is the case, each new one seems progressively less innovative.
This also reflects my impression of the Parfumo community, so the level of interest in Orto Parisi is significantly lower than the fame of the Nasomatto greats.
Before I am misunderstood here:
I'm a big fan of Gualtieri's DNA,
anything that comes from his pen I can appreciate, it's just that I increasingly get the impression that he has only mastered one style of writing, which is why I don't need many of his fragrances when I already own a similar one.
This basic attitude determined me when I received through through Scentman76's sharing a sample Cuoium.
And again, a déjà- vu experience, even several.
The scent starts off exactly like Marc Gebauer's #Air Tiger, to my nose. Somehow ironic. Here, cardamom seems to be dumbed down in the same loud, cutting style. However, I find Air Tiger to be quite simplistic, just turned up and trimmed to two days of screaminess, this is not the case here. Cuoium is clearly more varriative, reveals the familiar Gualtieri DNA from the depth, in my opinion most reminiscent of Terroni, however, it takes here surprisingly little space, but provides a nice transition to the actual theme, the leather. This is most reminiscent of a worn leather jacket, with an emphasis on the black greasy patina that inevitably forms over decades of use and lack of care. What surprises me greatly is the raspberry that makes an appearance here. Gualtieri doesn't usually soften his challenging creations with pleasingly sweet notes and then not with something as expected as raspberry? Leather raspberry is next to rose oud but almost already the running gag of the perfume industry So prominent as with other leather perfumes it is not, is dimmed by ashtray notes, this must be said fair way.
And in this fragrance impression Cuoium leaves me disappointed, I had hoped for something new, or at least more focus on leather, despite bias.
Cuoium doesn't appeal to me, there are just too many familiar DNA's built in, which by now no longer appeal to me. Air Tiger itself was already too much wanted Interlude Man for me. For whom, however, a fusion of Tuscan Leather and Air Tiger sounds exciting in Gualtieri way, for which this release is perhaps worth testing.
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