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01/28/2015
Rickbr
190 Reviews
Rickbr
Helpful Review
Oakmoss Illusion
I was expecting this to be one of the simplest perfumes from Paul collection, but i was wrong. This is another of his creations rich on its three dimensions, complex as a fragrance of the past and capable, as it was for me, to create illusion of notes that aren't even on its composition. There is, definitely besides its complexity from the past, something retro on its aura, from a time where mainstream perfumes where luxury was also in the composition. I could see something like this being launched by brands like Jean Patou or Rochas.At first i pictured Ginger Zest as a creation on the middle road between an Eau de Rochas and a Madame Rochas, but then i saw that it would fit perfectly the cocktail line launched by Jean Patou during the 30's, specially by capturing, like the Patou, the contradction of a the bitter/tanic side and the refreshing nuance of some citrus fruits/essences. Ginger Zest opens with this bitter refreshing citrusy, which is already followed by a green floral aroma. The perfume will developt itself on this axis, but always keeping a fresh and minty spicy aroma, of a ginger that for me ends acting like a consolidator essence among the several floral and herbal elements.The curry touch of the spices here is interesting, it produces a sensation of dry hay and also sometines give you an impression of sugar being burnt. Ginger zest base was a surprise for me, because the combination of notes produces a smell that i would attribute to a chypre base calibered for a creation rich and citruses and florals. I ended asking Paul if there really wasn't any oakmoss, such my certainty that it was there. It seems that is presence is produced and suggested by the balance of other essences that goes on chypre bases, like patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood and musks, which combined produce a woody,earthy and dry sensation. This was a nice surprise, a luxury cocktail that i appreciated a lot while i tried to dechiper its secrets.
