Anubis by Papillon Artisan Perfumes
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8.5 / 10     146 RatingsRatingsRatings
Anubis is a popular perfume by Papillon Artisan Perfumes for women and men and was released in 2012. The scent is leathery-spicy. The longevity is above-average. It is still in production.
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Perfumer

Liz Moores

Fragrance Notes

Egyptian jasmine, Pink lotus, Suede, Immortelle, Frankincense, Saffron, Sandalwood, Labdanum

Ratings

Scent

8.5 (146 Ratings)

Longevity

8.4 (122 Ratings)

Sillage

7.8 (123 Ratings)

Bottle

7.2 (111 Ratings)
Submitted by Apicius, last update on 23.11.2020.
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Reviews

9
Scent
8
Longevity
8
Sillage
8
Bottle
Chizza
Translated Show originalShow translation
Chizza
Chizza
Top Review    24  
The butterfly with the leathery wings
Stardate 2367, we are approaching a new unknown galaxy on behalf of the Planetary Union. What will await us on this new journey, what mysteries will we discover and what puzzles will we have to solve? The farewell of wife and children was as always difficult, will be more difficult than ever, because our return will be uncertain as always. Perhaps one day we will fare like Odysseus once did...
"Beep-beep-beep! Please insert two Euro to keep the star spectacle going! Beep-beep-beep!"
"Stupid thing," cursed Wolle, kicked the machine once, which unfortunately was more stable than his foot. He continued cursing uninhibitedly and loudly, some parents quickly turned to their children, covered their ears and the security of this play paradise for mainly children and teenagers rushed to Wolle. This was then led out the door.
Outside in the parking lot he got on his bike and went to Hotte's. His wife and children were on family visit for a week, which meant storm-free for the crew of Wolles Eleven. Wolle was looking forward to a lot of beer and meat, his stomach seemed to be jubilant and his frock tightened alarmingly. Moreover, his son had brought him a leather scent from his last holiday in Spain, which he liked very much. Anubis bought this scent from a small perfumery in Andalusia. Anubis, Egyptian god of death rituals, liked wool. Also, that someone from a forum for perfumers called the fragrance a mummy scent. This had a mystical effect on him. This someone who named himself after an Ottoman small town or alternatively after an Ottoman scimitar, that was wool likable. He would introduce Anubis right away in the round

Later in the big round, it was already very sociable, Wolle then took the floor: "Listen, I have another fine fragrance for you today! That..." suddenly Wolle's mobile rang: "Lollipop lollipop
Oh lolli lolli lolli lollipop, lollipop, lollipop
Oh lolli lolli lolli lollipop, lollipop, lollipop
Oh lolli lolli lolli lollipop."

"Uh...was certainly my wife... so the one with the ring tone...", Operation Wool Damage Control but the laughter was already big. "Now calm down and listen to me and test the flacon here!"
Anubis passed wool around

"I don't know... I'm missing something, actually. It smells...yes...there is something missing...gin or whiskey or something like that", Udo concluded his statement. "Difficult." "Udo, that is so and that is good. Stop it with your liquor leather scents."
Deep inside Udo something broke, he hummed quietly "Alone, alone" to himself. But the others went on with the testing and discussed and it already happened that one or the other beer and bottle threatened to mix up. "Splash bottle?", one heard not only a member of Herne's most notorious motorcycle club murmuring to himself

"Wool, where'd your boy get this stuff? It's amazing how that smells! So aromatic and yet so direct!"
"with message, pithy announcement but so charming at the same time!"
"Yes, exactly, something with character! Even with incense, its nature does not change but remains evident. The cardamom also seems to me to be of higher quality than the 1881 Signature"
"Of course it is, Toti! But the fun costs a lot more. For less content."
Everyone agreed, Anubis was obviously a stringent and exquisite scent for everyone. Which you have to be able to afford, which is why the price was converted to beer crates. Uwe noticed the note that made the leather look so smooth but not light. "Smells like my Maria in the kitchen, this saffron and cardamom mixed" everyone nodded at him, it was so noticeable and had light Indian spice tea notes
-----------------

Anubis by Papillon Artisan is the best leather scent I have had the pleasure of testing lately, which means a period of certainly many months and I - some of you know it - now test leather scents a little more frequently. It is elegant, is quite clear and intense in the leather but without slipping down into the rough. Anubis is not loud, he is well dosed in his effect. He starts with intensive and high-quality leather, which doesn't look dirty but very filigree, but smells heavier than other leathers. No question, the cardamom in combination with the saffron makes the leather appear spicy-aromatic. Pepper does what pepper does and Neroli resonates sublimely. The result is an extremely spicy-clear and sublime leather. I don't perceive rose, but it will contribute to the fact that Anubis remains exciting and thrilling.
In the core this leather mixes with the incense, but this does not successively slide off into too smoky and rough areas, as the sandalwood with its creaminess prevents this from happening and thus the focus remains on the leather. Sublime and clear (my goodness, how often do I repeat this here), dry but not bone dry.
In short: One of the best leather scents I have been allowed to test lately and which will be purchased very soon.
17 Replies
9.5
Scent
8
Longevity
6
Sillage
7
Bottle
Lgsoltek

8 Reviews
Lgsoltek
Lgsoltek
   0  
Salubrious, disinfectant, cleansing
A warm cloud of smouldering resins and suede-like softness, and more importantly what smells to me like a hefty dose of salubrious guaiac wood (even though it’s not listed in the pyramid). It wraps around you wherever you go, keeping your mind in peace. Perfect for such troubled times. It is indeed a disinfectant for the soul.
8
Scent
7
Longevity
7
Sillage
6
Bottle
Pepdal

198 Reviews
Pepdal
Pepdal
   0  
Anubis
My second review from the U.K. house, Papillon Artisan Perfumes. Anubis is an incensy suede with some interesting inspiration. I hope you enjoy the review, and thank you for watching.......................


0.5
Scent
8
Longevity
5
Sillage
5
Bottle
DorothyGrace

73 Reviews
DorothyGrace
DorothyGrace
   1  
Anubis? Well, not exactly.
I have tried three Papillon scents; Anubis, Salome, and Dryad.

Overall to my nose they smell a bit raw and unfinished, rather like my home made perfumes or my aromatherapy mixes. Interesting to test but not a perfume to luxuriate in.

Anubis opens up with a citrus leather accord, a medicinal frankincense, a teeny tiny balsamic sweetness. Within a couple of minutes the smell flattens and a deluge of harsh sandalwood sets itself up for the duration. And for me that's it. For hours I get this rather flat, medicinal, leathery sandalwood. I find it rather cold. Anubis is far from being dry and earthy and although not exactly green there is a brightness, an almost acrid sharpness to it.

10
Scent
10
Longevity
9
Sillage
8
Bottle
AveParfum

7 Reviews
AveParfum
AveParfum
Helpful Review    3  
Sublime smoky animalic
Phenomenal! This might sound strange, but I took the day off today and headed to my favorite Indian restaurant for lunch, with my sample of Anubis in tow. I figured in an Indian restaurant, nobody would notice I dabbed perfume on. When I applied it to my skin, the gorgeous scent immediately blended into the atmosphere. It smelled like it belonged there, almost like nag champa but exponentially finer.

The listed notes throw me off. I don't know about the florals. Anubis is very well blended and has a syrupy texture. Imagine a sweet amber syrup with hints of saffron, yet surprisingly animalic too. This is right on the border of too animalic for me, it pushes the limits of what I can handle. But the other notes create such harmony that I find myself craving its note of sweaty horse hair. Sweet animalic syrup, like Arabian horse hooves dipped in ambrosia. So strange, but it's gorgeous!

The base notes are like a ceremonial incense used in Ancient Egypt. It smells faintly of ancient stones. Anubis is from another time, another world! It is an extremely sophisticated work of art, yet it is so approachable. It is not quite transcendental. I think the word is SPIRITUAL. It is grounding, carnal, soulful.

Edit: Anubis also reminds me of a Filipino sweet called pastillas. They are water-buffalo milk candy, covered with a thin layer of crunchy sugar. It is milky and sweet, but it tastes "game-y", as we say, and would not suit most Americans' palates unless they are a little more adventurous. I love the stuff, personally. Also, when I wrote my review I had no idea that the perfumer was trying to evoke Ancient Egypt, so I am amazed that I certainly picked up Ancient Egypt in this perfume. Liz Moores is a Master!

Update: It turns out this perfume house is cruelty-free! I love a perfumer who knows how to make an animalic perfume without using the real essences. That makes Liz Moores even more talented in my mind.
jtd

484 Reviews
jtd
jtd
Top Review    5  
makes me think
The genre of woody/smoky perfumes is having a moment these days. Unfortunately, many of these perfumes start with a disadvantage. A glut of aromachemicals hastily produced to fill the oud-gap that manufacturers are trying to convince us exists has lead to perfumes overdosed with ear-splitting synth-oud bases. Characteristics of these perfumes include density, a lack of topnotes, longevity and minimal evolution. Their motto is a variation on the advice, “walk softly and carry a big stick.” They urge you to carry a big stick and bludgeon everyone in your wake. It’s a genre that conceptually and olfactorily turns me off.

My mistake was to lump too many perfumes into this category, the case in point being Anubis. I bundled the fumes made principally of synth-oud base and the ones smartly calibrated to achieve a smoky darkness into the same category. Based on my dislike for many of the perfumes that comprise the genre I neglected to distinguish good from bad. I threw the baby out with the bathwater.

This all happened in own head, of course. I have written about the traps of mistaking opinion for consideration and I should take my own advice. Fortunately, with the exception of Hard Leather, I kept my thoughts to myself. I lumped Anubis in with Orto Parisi Stercus, Naomi Goodsir Bois d’Ascèse, Masque Milano Montecristo and LM Parfums Hard Leather, four perfumes, two of which are dense but balanced, two of which I find grossly out of whack and make my ears ring. I will leave it for you to decide which is which.

It’s Salome that made me see Anubis in a different light. That and a long hike on a warm day.

If you heat up the bad examples of the Grim Genre (or The Heavy Smokers, my two nicknames for the genre) you’ll burn off the lighter materials and be left with the synth-oud skeleton in short order. I’ve tried them on some hot, sweaty days and in the end I was left smelling like shit. Literally. I recently basted myself in Anubis and went for a hike in the desert. The gasoline-jasmine bloomed, the incense was shot through with a smoky breeze and the drydown made me want to lick myself. While dense and smoky, Anubis is also ambery, leathery and nuanced. Quite the opposite of the grim synth-ouds, Anubis is built for skin. The floral connection to Salome helped me see Anubis in a different light and I did another Anubis-hike the next day. A little Anubis goes a long way and a less concentrated dose (ie. sprayed from a distance) helps the layers unfold more evenly. It’s less smoky but more resinous this way. The gasoline-floral quality, my favorite aspect of Anubis, rises more clearly to the surface.

Whether I was right or wrong in my initial take on Anubis is something for me to keep in mind, but the bigger point is that a well considered perfume can make you work for your pleasure. Taking a risk, targeting a small audience, polarizing your audience. Ambiguity. Marketing theory might tell you that these are guidelines for failure. I disagree entirely and apparently, thank god, so does Liz Moores.

Moores took the risk of making a perfume that polarizes her potential buyers. But she also created a perfume that I came back to over the period of a year or so. In the end, she won me over.
1 Replies
ColinM

516 Reviews
ColinM
ColinM
   4  
Nice try...
Double boring alert – for the fragrance, and for my review. Anubis by Papillon is a balsamic suede-incense scent infused with a pleasant, albeit hilariously dull sort of classic floral chypre bone-structure; jasmine, benzoin, something vanillic on the very base, and a hint of something boozy which may be just a side-effect of resins and jasmine. Shortly a soft leather scent with a classic vibe, sort of a hybrid between contemporary suede scents à la Cuir Ottoman by Parfum d’Empire crossed with any cheap resinous/myrrh fragrance and topped with that hipster “neo-chypre” wave which seems in fashion lately (Bogue etc.). Sadly, kind of taking the worse features of both. You can easily imagine how this smells then; artisanal, boozy, slightly “carnal” and animalic, at the same pleasantly balsamic, inoffensively leathery, terribly déjà-vu as regards of the materials used, with a whole palpable feel of velvety floral darkness smelling as much pedantic as enjoyable. It is decently wearable, but for the price, the quality seems really mild for me, not to say mediocre. I get a lot of cheap nuances out of Anubis, and in general - and again, as in so many other similar indie scents - the texture and the depth seem really dull for me. Shortly: completely lacking in creativity, and not even that nice aside from that.

I smell here the exact same issue I smell in other trendy leather-chypresque recent scents; it decently emulates some leathery chypre for some 20-30 minutes, then it’s all a rapid descent into flatness, and cheapness. Like a sort of attempt, or an exercise to create a certain type of fragrance with way insufficient materials and talent. Don’t get me wrong, this smells nice, the kind of “congrats for your final essay” nice, which for the price is beyond preposterous. It seems we’re getting used to pay 5 star prices for inconsistent amateurish exercises, and given the hype they get, no surprises that any novice feels launching any concoction he or she manages to put together. Just get any Molinard Habanita and the likes (even current: mentioning vintages would be really like shooting fish in a barrel here), half the price and ten times the quality of this clumsily derivative stuff.

5/10
10
Scent
10
Longevity
7.5
Sillage
10
Bottle
JackieG

5 Reviews
JackieG
JackieG
   2  
Smoked jasmine petals over incense...
I was recently sent samples of these perfumes and they're all so good. I had read some really positive pre-launch reviews about all three in this company's debut collection and was lucky enough to be sent some samples from them.
Anubis is a striking fragrance that opens with the scent of jasmine petals smoked with incense. There is a gorgeous green note here too that compliments the heady jasmine perfectly. The leather note is smooth and elegant, rich and sumptuous. It was love at first sniff until I smelt the other two....I honestly couldn't say which is my favourite although I think I'm leaning more towards Papillon Artisan Perfume's Tobacco Rose.
A really impressive perfume that is on my 'want list'.
JuliaFlowers

1 Review
JuliaFlowers
JuliaFlowers
   4  
Beautiful, powerful and unique
I was fortunate enough to be sent samples of the Papillon collection and all three perfumes have truly wowed me. In particular I loved this fragrance, it is a beautifully soft smokey scent, with the perfect balance of jasmine and leather. Would make a great evening fragrance but I have to confess I wore it every day, there is something very addictive and hypnotic about Anubis. Cannot wait to get a full size bottle when they launch as my sample bottle has run out! Highly recommended.
1 Replies

Statements

DorothyGraceDorothyGrace 3 years ago
0.5
Scent
8
Longevity
5
Sillage
5
Bottle
First impression, medicinal frankincense, fragrant sandalwood, touch vanillic benzoin, doesn't get going on me except for the sandalwood.

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