Salome Papillon Artisan Perfumes 2015

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8.2 / 10 88 Ratings

Salome is a popular perfume by Papillon Artisan Perfumes for women and was released in 2015. The scent is animal-spicy. Projection and longevity are above-average. It is still in production.

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Perfumer

Liz Moores

Fragrance Notes

Jasmine, Hyraceum, Turkish rose, Carnation, Oakmoss, Styrax, Bitter orange, Patchouli, Bergamot, Orange blossom

Ratings

Scent

8.2 | 88 Ratings

Longevity

8.8 | 76 Ratings

Sillage

8.2 | 75 Ratings

Bottle

7.1 | 71 Ratings

Submitted by Michael, last update on 17.01.2021.

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Reviews

01/16/2021

8.5
Scent 9
Longevity 8
Sillage 8
Bottle 7
Pricing

Emorandeira
332 Reviews

Emorandeira

Classic animalic chipre

Salome has captivated me. It opens with a very citrusy out that in a few minutes turns into an animalistic and very spicy aroma, with a quite pronounced floral part. It reminds me a bit of traditional Chipre perfumes such as eau du soir de sisley or paloma Picasso, although much more animalistic, and of current fashionable perfumes such as diaghilev de roja dove or Maai de bogue profumo. The perfume has, in addition to the hiraceous and the castoreum, a very pronounced musk, and together they cause an aroma like sweat, but not of an unpleasant mnee, which becomes addictive. Although its composition is reminiscent of traditionally feminine perfumes, I find it totally unisex and I feel very comfortable wearing it. I see it for cold weather or mild weather nights.

Scent: 8.5
Longevity: 9
Sillage: 8
Versatility: 6
Originality: 8
Quality / price: 6
Overall: 8.5

05/02/2020

6
Scent 9
Longevity 8
Sillage 8
Bottle

Iseabail
25 Reviews

Iseabail

The naughty child of Papillon

It seems like this fragrance is very chemistry dependent. It makes sense as it is made with a lot of naturals. As a lover of Chypre-Florals and of animalic notes, I had to get my nose on this. At the opening and during the following hour and a half, I am getting a blast of animalic notes and cumin with a little jasmine in the background. This part is interesting. I then get a strong ashtray note that lasted the following hour. It made me feel quite nauseous so it was hard to focus on the other aspects of the fragrance. I know that Salome has a cult following, which is great as it pushes boundaries. It just did not work for me. This is an honest review which does not seeks to vilify this perfume. I believe it is only necessary for fragrance lovers to read about a variety of experiences.

04/28/2020

FioreMarina

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FioreMarina

Top Review 17

Oh, Salome!

Salome, yes...
The beautiful queen's daughter, whose dance first drove men out of their minds, then killed John the Baptist, and finally became her own undoing, inspired hosts of artists, bells in her hair, clinking gold hoops on her ankles and an emerald in her navel, malignantly sparkling.
What should a scent resembling Salome smell like? It should be sensual, erotic, confusing, beguiling...fatal Well - he is above all the latter: fatal.
Perhaps I should placate the followers of Salome right now: The scent is a work of art. But art is not always beautiful. And if you hang a Munch in your bedroom, you shouldn't hope for erotic inspiration I admit that I am disappointed in this respect: I was allowed to read that Liz Moores was inspired by the sight of a burlesque dancer to create this work, which was intended to transport the charm of the Fin du Siècle to us. The perfume really does smell like vintage. And it even has something of those nostalgic fairs. But I don't associate it with dancing beauty with nothing but a string of pearls around the narrow waist. Rather the lady with the beard, sadly waiting for customers behind the curtain of a shabby circus tent. It smells of earth, of mud, of mothballs and if there are flowers here, they haven't bloomed under the sun for a long time.
Totally perplexed, I brood over the pyramid of scents. Jasmine, unfortunately, I cannot perceive at all; he is slain by a monstrous carnation, as is the pitiful Turkish rose. Perhaps there is something like the hint of orange blossom, but there is also something in between, something that the toilets in the immediate vicinity of the lady with the beard suggest... ah! Hyraceum! The fossilized feces from Kapyrax, as I can extract from Wikipedea... well, that explains a lot. Patchouli in rough quantities adds a pinch of grave vault and the orange smells...bitter There is so much right about this perfume: the idea was good; the scents, at least most of them, fit the biblical dancer. But the realization... it's such a pity! The Salomes of this earth will probably not acquire this scent. At least not when they want to charm. And I won't use it either

7 Replies

01/29/2020

7
Scent 9
Longevity 9
Sillage 9
Bottle

Ovaissaleem
59 Reviews

Ovaissaleem

Sinful

Notes are Jasmine, Hyraceum, Turkish Rose, Carnation, Oakmoss, Styrax, Orange, Patchouli, Bergamot, and Orange Blossom

A soapy, spicy and so animalic. I am not a big fan of animalic fragrance and try to avoid them as much as possible but I had to get a decant of Salome ????. This is very animalic but also beautiful, sexy, sinful and fatal????. I am happy that I was able to try this and this is a blended to perfection the notes do settle down but just not for me.

06/03/2019

9
Scent 9
Longevity 8
Sillage 7
Bottle

Pepdal
204 Reviews

Pepdal

Salome - Papillon

My first experience with the house of Papillon Artisan Perfumes. I received a sample of this about a year ago and I am finally able, and pleased to provide my review/experience of this scent... I hope you enjoy.

10/15/2018

10
Scent 9
Longevity 8
Sillage 8
Bottle

Alex1984
43 Reviews

Alex1984

Candlelight glow

I thought I had written a review on Salome but I guess I was too busy wearing and enjoying it. Papillon as a whole, is one of the few brands that keep my faith in indie, niche, and artisanal perfumery. While bigger brands have been going mainstream for the last 5 years or so, Liz Moores goes slowly and steadily towards curating a line that is both fascinating and rewarding. Salome is my favorite.

The concept behind, and the inspiration, was an old photograph from the turn of the century. And the scent itself could easily belong there, as it follows the footsteps of Shocking and even Femme; sepia toned, glowing warmth. Gentle spices, a French floral heart and a chypre backbone, Salome bends olfactory families and draws the best from them; expertly blended, it’s hard to pinpoint the notes. There’s effervescence in the opening from sparkling bergamot, spicy florals in the heart with a beautiful rose and carnation like you don’t smell anymore, and a beautiful animalic drydown that mixes civet, castoreum and hyraceum with musk and smoky patchouli. Just like older fragrances, the animalic notes enhance and magnify the whole composition, and don’t scream just for the sake of it. While dirty and skanky at times, mostly from the touch of cumin, the animalic notes make the scent far bigger than the sum of its parts.
Here is where Femme comes into play; Salome feels like a worthy Roudnitska descendant in the best possible way. One relies on the erotic qualities of ripe fruit (plums, hence Prunol base) while Salome relies mostly on ripe florals past their prime. The spices are gentle and warm, merely glowing forever, and there’s a strong oakmoss bone that transcends standard orientals and chypres. Salome is art, expertly conceived, translating into pure pleasure to wear. Long lasting, noticeable for hours, and unabashedly sensual when worn, and sexual when smelt.

In this time and age, when IFRA is the big bad wolf that has forever destroyed many beloved masterpieces, fragrances like this show that while there are restrictions, quality perfumes can still be made, as long as there is a coherent vision, zero focus groups and marketing, and no need for ass kissing big aromachemical corporations. As long as there is talent and people who believe in perfumery, there are still many more Salomes to come. And while IFRA will only get more restrictive, perfumery isn’t yet dead. Not by a long shot.

09/28/2018

8
Scent 10
Longevity 8
Sillage 5
Bottle

Greenfaerie
73 Reviews

Greenfaerie

So raw!

This is so animalic and carnal, just love it! Reminds me of a cavewoman wearing a leopard skin for a dress, like in the Flinstones! Smells slightly smoky, a little incense, some voluptuous roses, and you really get sort of a hyraceum/civet blend. A romantic and daring blend.

07/09/2018

8.5
Scent 10
Longevity 10
Sillage 8
Bottle

Gschpusi

Translated Show original

Gschpusi

Top Review

Associations

Only a small train of thought, instead of a comprehensive comment.

S - gentle breathing
A - press together
L - living creature
O - unequaled
M - noon rays
E - devil
.
Every word a sensation. A scent that won't draw in. Nevertheless, he is strong like a tiger on a meadow. Animal spoiled and radiantly flowery, playful and threatening. Irritably dangerous and cuddly. A bouquet of such dominant plants and flowers that you get scared. Threatening, warm, ingratiating and oddly beautiful.
I don't like it at all and I like to wear it

8 Replies

03/16/2018

QuercusAlbus
72 Reviews

QuercusAlbus

Dancing for Herod

Was drawn to this by the colourful descriptions of its skankiness and funkiness, and blind bought it! Rare for me. Don't regret it though. You were right!

Just what I was looking for. Cheers!

But having said that - TBPH I've just actually put it on for the first time, & O Wotan!! Withhold thy thunderbolts! I don't know how you don't get it! Have you put it on yet? If not - be careful !! What I said above, and which I now confess was on basis of cardboard test only, is now triply confirmned! You're getting a genuine real-time report here! To Niflheimr with the rule about using too many '!'! Not sure I ought to have gone done donnen that - got respectable places tæ gang tæ!

But oddly, it does some gentle strokes also (as also no-doubt did ^The^ Salome (or ~Shlomith, to be a little more historickally accurate)). As becomes apparent with its settling.

2018-03-16-17-34 UTC --
I have now given this 'fume a full run-out; and I maintain that it _is_ thoroughly beast-funky. To me, there is no case of animalistic notes poking through as it dries-down - it is a full-on beast-funky brew from start to finish. As for there being magic (or magick) in it, well, it probably would make a superb temple 'fume; and (detailed discussions as to the objective reality of such matters belonging rather elsewhere (believe me - it's better!)), there are many spirits that one might conjure that would be strongly attracted by it - but not necessarily wholesome ones!

For these kinds of reason, ~Salome~ is an ^excellent^ name for this 'fume. Anyone familiar with the legend of Salome ærotically dancing for King Herod to such effect that he was willing to have John the Baptist decapitated for her would probably say something like " ... they've got a nerve, calling a perfume ^that^: they've set themselves a ^seriously^ high bar there! ... ". I said precisely that, and to my mind this stuff ^does^ vault that bar! It is absolutely relentless! I do not know how this 'fume has kept below most of the major °radar° systems. Use it cautiously!

Another one that this kind of reminds me of - although it's nowhere near as heavyweight - but it's still extremely striking in a similar way, and also much cheaper (it can often be obtained for about £35, which is half its originally ~scheduled~ price) - is ~Reem Acra~. If you like this one, I think you'd find that one another gem.

I' ve just read the review below. Extremely thorough! Then I saw who'd written it - someone whose reviews I have encountered previously and have read keenly. So that is the inner machinery of this 'fume then, cog by cog & sprocket by sprocket! I tend not to analyse like that - I can't to be perfectly honest - maybe by reason of insufficient experience, or maybe my olfactory faculty is not up to it; but I _know_ from many accumulated signs that it is at least a reasonably good olfactory faculty. I _hate_ the use of air-fresheners to counter an unpleasant smell, as to me the unpleasant smell is still there, and the 'pretty' smell of the air freshener merely combines with it to make a 'suprastuprated' one! (Analyse that word into its Latin parts, & you'll soon get the common but coarse English idiom that it is a substitute for!) So I can at least smell two things simultaneously, and I sometimes think people who use air-fresheners & really believe they work must be unable to do so.

But what I am getting at here is that I tend to try to convey the 'outer shape' or the 'hull-shape' of the fragrance, rather than its inner workings. But the analysis below is thoroughly fascinating.

I also see it stated in the same review that this perfume has made 'quite a splash', whereas I say " ... I don't know how it has gotten beneath the radar ... ". Presumably I've missed it somehow. Still, Planet Perfume _is_ vast - and rapidly expanding!

But! And this is a point I'm working up to: I don't find it marred at all! To my mind, this is heavy machinery- and meant to be heavy machinery! It seems to me that its very raison d'être is to deliver heavy olfactory freight, and good reason to be well-pleased that the freight is indeed delivered, and is indeed the heavier & girthier beams that one requires to bear the load one's proposed structure is intended to. Basically, I would not have this 'fume any other than what it indeed is. Perhaps another 'fume like this, but modified as the previous reviewer suggests, would also be an excellent 'fume; but it would not be _extraordinary_ in the way this one is: and I would _no way_ have it that this 'fume not exist - as it is now.

01/03/2016

5
Scent 10
Longevity 5
Sillage 5
Bottle

Drseid
764 Reviews

Drseid

Helpful Review 3

Heavy Animalics Are Marred By Additional Dirty Spice...

Salome opens with a honeyed musky orange before quickly moving to its heart. As the composition enters its early heart, the initial musky orange turns into indolic orange blossom, as an absolutely huge amount of starring dirty cumin spice enters, joined by co-starring animalic hyrax, with dirty jasmine and slightly powdery carnation in support. During the late dry-down the dirty florals and the cumin recede and finally vacate, leaving the remnants of the animalic hyrax and now moderately powdery carnation to join hay-like coumarin through the finish. Projection is average, but longevity outstanding at well over 15 hours on skin.

Salome has been making quite the splash on the perfume scene since its release last year in 2015. One of the frequently mentioned standout attributes claimed is its heavy use of animalics, and this reviewer definitely concurs, for better or for worse. The key animalic attribute used in the composition's heart is hyrax. The best way to describe hyrax is an animalic hybrid with characteristics of musk, civet and castoreum. In the case of Salome, the musk aspect comes out early, and as time passes the smooth castoreum facet takes control in the late dry-down with the civet relatively subdued throughout. If the liberal use of hyrax isn't animalic enough for you, the perfumer adds indolic jasmine and orange blossom to the mix for an increased dirty nature to the composition. While one might think all these indoles and musky animalics would be too much to handle, surprisingly they work to a relatively large degree, especially late when the castoreum-like facet of the hyrax controls. Unfortunately, there is a big show-stopper here, and it is in the form of an extremely large amount of dirty cumin spice that shows up seconds after initial application and dominates through the early heart, not completely vacating until the late-dry-down. This dirty spice is wholly unnecessary and overpowering to the extreme. It is as if the perfumer wants to dare the wearer to see just how far over the line they can go before crying "Uncle". For this writer, the animalics, while not really to my taste were tolerable, the indolic florals while additionally not to my taste were surprisingly interesting, and the powdery carnation never got too powdery to call it a day. Unfortunately, that dirty cumin used was just too darn much, particularly when added to the already overly dirty animalic mix. At the end of the day, Salome is the kind of composition one can appreciate as a work of art, but wearing it is quite another thing and this writer *wears* perfumes. The bottom line is the $160 per 50ml bottle Salome is definitely a departure from the common, bland "fresh" compositions of today, but while its heavy indolic florals and deep musky animalics are tough to wear but never overly-so, its dirty cumin absolutely is, earning it an "average" 2.5 stars out of 5 rating and a neutral recommendation. Setting aside the rating, if deep musky animalics with dirty cumin spice work for you, absolutely give Salome a try as it is bound to impress (though I would argue many vintage spicy animalic perfumes smell better, are much more wearable and can be had for considerably less money with some effort), but if heavy animalics, indoles and dirty spice are not your thing, this one will scare the heck out of you!

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