Spell 125 Papillon Artisan Perfumes 2021

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7.5 / 1061 Ratings

Spell 125 is a new perfume by Papillon Artisan Perfumes for women and men and was released in 2021. The scent is green-resinous. It is still available to purchase.

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Perfumer

Liz Moores

Fragrance Notes

White ambergris

Siberian stone pine

Hemlock fir

Omani green frankincense

Ylang-ylang

Indian sandalwood

Ratings

Scent

7.561 Ratings

Longevity

7.954 Ratings

Sillage

6.956 Ratings

Bottle

7.839 Ratings

Value for money

6.321 Ratings

Submitted by BeScho, last update on 26.04.2022.

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Reviews

09/17/2021

6.5
Scent 7
Longevity 5
Sillage 7
Bottle 5
Pricing

Lioncourt
44 Reviews

Lioncourt

2

Green darkness, smooth... maybe weak.

For me it is a mysterious smell with a certain greeness and slightly dark although it does not reach the master in that field that is Anubis. In this case there is an attractive point, a salty undertone somewhere.

Unfortunately, for my taste in this type of perfume, it has insufficient power. I like to transmit strongly and far what this type of fragrance represents. But in this case it remains as something more intimate, close.

If you want something magnetic and that attracts everyone to you, you should try Bengale Rouge, for me the masterpiece of seductive magic that Papillon has. However, at least my bottle of this perfume (2021) is very powerful in silage and lasting.
This is not the case with Spell 125, which is low-key and intimate due to its performance, at least on my skin.

08/02/2021

9.5
Scent 10
Longevity 7
Sillage 10
Bottle 10
Pricing

Josefka

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Josefka

Top Review 20

Incense - a circle closes

With her seventh fragrance, released on 7/7 of this year, Liz Moores of Papillon Parfums has clearly come full circle. Because undoubtedly Spell 125 takes reference to one of the first fragrances of this house: Anubis.

The name Spell 125 refers to the longest passage in the Egyptian Book of the Dead. In the presence of the god Osiris, the soul of man is weighed there, and only if it weighs lighter than a feather can man's journey towards paradise continue. But before that, he has to appease 42 (divisible by 7!) other gods. No wonder that the spell No. 125 is the longest of the Book of the Dead.

But back to the scent. Right off the bat, a wonderful blend of pine needles and incense floats around the wearer. But I'll say it right now, this is not just any incense. This is some of the best frankincense (green frankinscense or in this case, Ottoman green frankincense) I've smelled to date. It has all the nuances, from citrusy tones at the beginning to light smoke in the middle to darker tones at the end.

The forest notes have already been rightly compared to a spruce needle bath here in the statements. Together with the incense, they form a never cheap-looking, very valuable fragrance. Swiss stone pine is also known to promote falling asleep - so that also fits the theme. I haven't come across hemlock as a scent before, here it's quite beguiling and I like to let it take me to North American forests. There is also some citrus involved at the beginning, as I said, which I attribute largely to the high quality incense. The myrrh also contributes some sweetness, but the fragrance never becomes too sweet.

I've always had my problems with Anubis, and especially with its afternoon marmaladey note. I like dark scents, but this was too humorless even for me. Spell 125 now is Anubis in something lighter for me. Spell 125 is also dust-dry, where Anubis tends to greasiness.
Only from the afternoon, it also becomes a little greasier, ambery and even a little dirty, which I find very successful (but I'm also into dirty scents). By the evening, this rather wicked undertone has evolved into the actual theme - very well done. Nose sticks enthusiastically to the wrist, so it should be.

For a long time I've been looking for that one scent that smells like sun baked dry woods, the kind you get from the west coast of the US. I'll keep looking, but this one is close again.

Verdict: A very big scent from Liz Moores, perhaps her best yet

10 Replies

07/28/2021

9.5
Scent 8
Longevity 6
Sillage

Verbeene

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Verbeene

Helpful Review 9

the legacy

She met him in the forest. The bright sunlight dripping through the pine needles painted moving patterns in his white hair. As always before a conversation with him, she was excited.
His eyes, clear, deep, and very calm, like mountain lakes in a rugged landscape, seemed to see more of her than even she knew.
His attention acted on her like a maelstrom that swallowed up everything inane.
She swayed- the silence seemed to deepen.

Then suddenly he raised his eyes. "I bequeath you the forest"

something crumbled into her open hands: earth, tree bark, peace.
"I can't accept this. You know I'm on the road half the year..."

He was silent.
"I bequeath to you the care of this healthy forest. You will need it more than it needs you.
You have no choice."

7 Replies

07/25/2021

6.5
Scent 10
Longevity 6
Sillage 7
Bottle 6
Pricing

Drseid
818 Reviews

Drseid

2

A Slightly Flawed Spell...

Spell 125 opens with a fine, radiant frankincense with underlying coniferous green pine before quickly transitioning to its heart. As the composition enters its early heart the frankincense remains, first in support of the pine now coupled with slightly sweet leathery green coniferous black hemlock , then taking the fore again after about 30 minutes, as a faint, near-transparent doughy floral accord and a hint of the slightly sweet, smooth sandalwood rising from the base join the conifers in latent support. During the late dry-down the coniferous aspects gradually recede, leaving the frankincense and sandalwood tandem to dominate through the lengthy finish. Projection is good and longevity outstanding at nearly 24 hours on skin.

Spell 125's note list is just about as compelling as possible... frankincense, multiple coniferous greens, florals and sandalwood. I went into trying my sample prepared to love it, and certainly it has a lot of merit. Alas, while the radiant frankincense open is heavenly smelling, it somehow doesn't quite mesh with the coniferous green elements in the heart as much as I would have expected. There also is the dough-like aspect resembling yeast that is just a tad off-putting that takes you out of the spell 125 is trying to cast on the wearer. Then the perfume shifts gears to the sandalwood and the incense again during the late dry-down that seemingly lasts forever and smells great. On the whole, one has to call the perfume a success, but with a little more tinkering of the key heart accord it could have been really special, and that is a bit of a shame. The bottom line is the $215 per 50ml bottle Spell 125 captures the wearer in its captivating frankincense driven web, but the spell dissipates when the conifers and florals join-in, still yielding a "good" to "very good" 3 to 3.5 stars out of 5 rated moderately successful effort and a modest recommendation.