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Notes03/23/2019
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Konsalik
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Konsalik
Instead of a petition
It is five to twelve for many friends of the perfumes of the traditional Berlin perfumer Harry Lehmann, as recently the discontinuation or reformulation of older fragrances was announced, which would no longer satisfy the corresponding EU regulations in the future. In June 2019 it starts! High time to pay tribute to a possible victim commenting - even if my relationship to this fragrance titan from Weimar years is not unbroken!
Cause I'm allergic to oakmoss. No, not literally and in the sense of the above-mentioned regulations. But in my case it is similar with oakmoss as with coriander leaves in food: All too easily this one ingredient covers all the others and spoils my pleasure. In Carons "Le 3e Homme", for example, carnation and generously dimensioned oak moss provided a chord that almost caused me breathlessness during all the test runs. The pocket sprayer moved on and I was sad because of my olfactory hypersensitivity, I wanted all (!) old carons to please me.
Lehmann's "Russian Juchten" remains in the matter of oakmoss always on this side of my "breathlessness threshold", but especially in the first hour only narrowly, so that I can "only" award 8.5 points and not 9.5 (which the fragrance itself would have deserved). He exerts me too much on most days and remains too permanently present in my own nose for me to be able to use him as often as I would like. But what else happens when you put on this ancient classic?
Immediately after spraying on, it initially appears to be alcoholic like shaving water with a distant resemblance to (highly concentrated!) Tabac Original, but at the same time extremely balsamic and thus fresh and springy-soft at the same time. The smell impression is green-brownish, somehow herbaceous and tobacco like and indeed very close to what would be scolded in the Federal Republic of our time as an old men's fragrance, if this kind of perfume (in this quality especially) would not slowly fall out of the general olfactory memory again, because, yes, because the original friends of this fragrance are so slowly following the path of all earthly things. This creates scents such as "Russian Juchten", but at least the possibility to play in the future without any previous burden (as long as he survives the reformulations/exclusions at Lehmann!). Children are also called Paul, Elisabeth and Ludwig again.
The further course of the fragrance is similarly compact and linear as with many teachers (some see this as a malus, but I find this "complex stability" extremely serious, see my commentary on "Russian Eau de Cologne"). However, the balsamic softness increases more and more, the mossy herbaceousness steps somewhat into the background and a hunch of wood (sandalwood? patchouli?!) and - here the name comes to bear - leather comes up. From this point "Russian Juchten" becomes really gentlemanly and quite elegant. Rounded in this way, the fragrance remains on the skin for many hours, whereby the Sillage can be described as quite strong: One is addressed in "Russian Juchten", which by no means applies to many perfumes.
Maintaining an almost perfect balance between angular spiciness and balsamic softness is a truly extraordinary feature of this primitive rock and anyone looking for archetypal men's scents should place at least 15 ml of "Russian Juchten" on the shelf. Best before June of this year...
Cause I'm allergic to oakmoss. No, not literally and in the sense of the above-mentioned regulations. But in my case it is similar with oakmoss as with coriander leaves in food: All too easily this one ingredient covers all the others and spoils my pleasure. In Carons "Le 3e Homme", for example, carnation and generously dimensioned oak moss provided a chord that almost caused me breathlessness during all the test runs. The pocket sprayer moved on and I was sad because of my olfactory hypersensitivity, I wanted all (!) old carons to please me.
Lehmann's "Russian Juchten" remains in the matter of oakmoss always on this side of my "breathlessness threshold", but especially in the first hour only narrowly, so that I can "only" award 8.5 points and not 9.5 (which the fragrance itself would have deserved). He exerts me too much on most days and remains too permanently present in my own nose for me to be able to use him as often as I would like. But what else happens when you put on this ancient classic?
Immediately after spraying on, it initially appears to be alcoholic like shaving water with a distant resemblance to (highly concentrated!) Tabac Original, but at the same time extremely balsamic and thus fresh and springy-soft at the same time. The smell impression is green-brownish, somehow herbaceous and tobacco like and indeed very close to what would be scolded in the Federal Republic of our time as an old men's fragrance, if this kind of perfume (in this quality especially) would not slowly fall out of the general olfactory memory again, because, yes, because the original friends of this fragrance are so slowly following the path of all earthly things. This creates scents such as "Russian Juchten", but at least the possibility to play in the future without any previous burden (as long as he survives the reformulations/exclusions at Lehmann!). Children are also called Paul, Elisabeth and Ludwig again.
The further course of the fragrance is similarly compact and linear as with many teachers (some see this as a malus, but I find this "complex stability" extremely serious, see my commentary on "Russian Eau de Cologne"). However, the balsamic softness increases more and more, the mossy herbaceousness steps somewhat into the background and a hunch of wood (sandalwood? patchouli?!) and - here the name comes to bear - leather comes up. From this point "Russian Juchten" becomes really gentlemanly and quite elegant. Rounded in this way, the fragrance remains on the skin for many hours, whereby the Sillage can be described as quite strong: One is addressed in "Russian Juchten", which by no means applies to many perfumes.
Maintaining an almost perfect balance between angular spiciness and balsamic softness is a truly extraordinary feature of this primitive rock and anyone looking for archetypal men's scents should place at least 15 ml of "Russian Juchten" on the shelf. Best before June of this year...
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