Russisch Juchten by Parfum-Individual Harry Lehmann
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7.8 / 10     63 RatingsRatingsRatings
Russisch Juchten is a popular perfume by Parfum-Individual Harry Lehmann for women and men. The release year is unknown. The scent is chypre-spicy. The longevity is above-average. It is still in production.
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Ratings

Scent

7.8 (63 Ratings)

Longevity

8.2 (52 Ratings)

Sillage

7.6 (46 Ratings)

Bottle

6.3 (41 Ratings)
Submitted by Apicius, last update on 25.11.2020.
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Reviews

7.5
Scent
7
Longevity
6
Sillage
6
Bottle
Vrabec
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Vrabec
Vrabec
Top Review    14  
Lehmann- passion: 5 - Leather? Chypre!
Juchtenleder is an originally vegetable tanned leather from Russia, which is said to be known for its stability, quality but also for its smell.
Traditionally, it is supposed to smell mainly smoky, as it is impregnated with birch tar oil.
I ordered this one blindly, because I don't have a real leather scent yet, but I like modern leather creations. Then I like it strong, too. Courageous, I know, because this one seems to come from the founder's pen - at least that's what they say. I knew that I'd rather have an old-school perfume in my hands.

On the website "Russian Yukon" is described as "herbaceous, woody, warm".
Its primary smell is not leathery or smoky.
The top note opens up sour, biting, petrol like. Clearly reminds me of the start of Lagerfeld classic. Quite gaudy, a little medicated, I'm sick of the jawbone factory. Ouch.
Then he turns around, gets soapy and slightly chypre. Biting his nose. Something flowery tickles back there, moss maybe? Cinnamon, leather very mildly soft, almost odorless "Russian Yuchten" is clearly of a classical nature, something dignified. Something that sends you back in time. Something somewhere between aged lady and mature gentleman After a few hours it becomes soft, furry, dry. Lemon comes up.
You may also find some amber in the drydown. I like this phase best. Unagitated, fresh, clean I would classify "Russian Yukon" clearly in the chypr direction. A smell direction intolerable for me, because I feel simply too young for it. But I can respect this one as a great work of art. I have not smelled many chypre, but this one is one of the better ones.
The nice thing is that Russian Yakuza isn't a blast. If you don't overdose on it, it can smell beautiful on the right one. It's hard to imagine it on a young man or woman.
9 Replies
8
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
6
Bottle
Chizza
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Chizza
Chizza
Top Review    13  
The journey to Berlin after the perfume holics
Continued:

After I was at the meeting of the anonymous perfume alcoholics and quickly realized that my Knize Ten addiction is not a negative addiction but rather an expression of good taste, my journey continued. Of course I was old-fashioned about the young faction, but that didn't stop me from indulging my K10. In any case, it happened that I had to go to Berlin on business. A city which I looked at with pleasure on the one hand, but which also seemed mysterious to me as a person who grew up in Thalfang near Trier. I mean, where were the cows? So anyway, I got on the train to Berlin.

So there I was, lost in thought, hanging out landscapes, when a gentleman in the train compartment addressed me: "Hello? Excuse me?...excuse me!"
"Oh, I'm sorry, I was thinking." I quickly cleared my jacket from the empty seat, which I had draped on the seat next to me like a German holidaymaker's bath towel. The other passenger took a seat, casually tapped his hat brim before taking it off. So we drove a little aside under his furtive looks. Finally it became too colourful for me! "Can I do something for you, sir?", I asked. "No, no, why do you ask?"
"The way you look at me, you either want to ask me out, kiss me, or have some other similar request!" I answered boldly. He laughed and then said: "No, you misunderstand. Your perfume arouses my curiosity, it smells similar to the prelude to my perfume but different. What is it?" "Oh," I blushed slightly when I asked, "that's Knize Ten. What are you wearing?"

The guest showed me a small bottle, perfume by weight, I trimmed. "This is Russian Yuchten from a small perfumery in Berlin. Would you like to try it, Mr...?"
"Bogart, Chizza Bogart. Gladly, and you are?" "Peter Halston. My friends also call me Z-14. How does that Russian kike smell now, Mr. Halston? He sprayed a little bit on my wrist and I was flabbergasted. It actually smelled remotely like my K-10!

In the prelude like a kind of soapy leather but without the astringency of dark leather, more like the faded, worn leather, which only gently exhaled its leather scent, as if it had to be used by households in order not to release its last breath of leather too early. "Well, it's not for everybody, is it?" I asked. As if to prove it, the lady opposite us rushed out of the compartment, coughing and coughing. Peter grinned mischievously. "Well, it's not for the faint-hearted. But it shouldn't be, they have enough other scents! Take a sniff! Does the scent change already?"

I smelled again and indeed, the soap gradually retreated, remained weak, but gave a deeper insight into the leather. It now became slightly tart, as if it had been freed from the soapy water. "Yes, you are right, there is nothing wrong with that! Where did that come from?" "From Berlin, as I said. "You are travelling alone and my wife, the Ilse, will be with her parents for the next few days I'll show you the shop and if you like, I know a good bar around the corner, too!"

My forehead wrinkled, but Peter Halston guessed my thoughts. "A stylish bar with a '60s flair, not an appletini joint." Suddenly we were interrupted by a person wearing sunglasses, fancy shorts, an altogether chic yet classic person, hard to describe. He said, "My name is Mann, Otto, oud is my motto." "Ah, sorry, the oud section's one carriage down." "Oh, where am I? I usually ride the bus. It's easy to get lost." "Fragrances for friends of yesteryear." "All right, I'm off. You said one car down the hall?" "Yes, I did

"Chizza, have you noticed the scent trail? There's more. What kind of name is that anyway; Chizza?" "Sort of a stage name. My daughter, for want of fully developed speech skills, always called our son that when she was a toddler."
At some point the soap disappeared, it became gently flowery, the leather pushed itself into the foreground. Fascinating, I thought to myself. Would that have been it? As if Peter Halston guessed my thoughts again, he said: "then prepare yourself for the end later. Then it becomes pleasantly soft, almost as if the fragrance wanted to apologize for the nasty prelude. Wonderful! I have to get out of here now at the next station, too. I'll see you tomorrow, as arranged? "Yes sure, Z-14!"

We said goodbye and the last station I drove on alone. When I was about to put the book "of the happy life" in my pocket, I had to smile mildly. Even if there were probably no cow pastures here, Russian Juchten was in itself in this big city again as quaint and cute as just the farmer with his cows next to the big dairy.
6 Replies
8.5
Scent
9
Longevity
9
Sillage
Konsalik
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Konsalik
Konsalik
Top Review    16  
Instead of a petition
It is five to twelve for many friends of the perfumes of the traditional Berlin perfumer Harry Lehmann, as recently the discontinuation or reformulation of older fragrances was announced, which would no longer satisfy the corresponding EU regulations in the future. In June 2019 it starts! High time to pay tribute to a possible victim commenting - even if my relationship to this fragrance titan from Weimar years is not unbroken!

Cause I'm allergic to oakmoss. No, not literally and in the sense of the above-mentioned regulations. But in my case it is similar with oakmoss as with coriander leaves in food: All too easily this one ingredient covers all the others and spoils my pleasure. In Carons "Le 3e Homme", for example, carnation and generously dimensioned oak moss provided a chord that almost caused me breathlessness during all the test runs. The pocket sprayer moved on and I was sad because of my olfactory hypersensitivity, I wanted all (!) old carons to please me.

Lehmann's "Russian Juchten" remains in the matter of oakmoss always on this side of my "breathlessness threshold", but especially in the first hour only narrowly, so that I can "only" award 8.5 points and not 9.5 (which the fragrance itself would have deserved). He exerts me too much on most days and remains too permanently present in my own nose for me to be able to use him as often as I would like. But what else happens when you put on this ancient classic?

Immediately after spraying on, it initially appears to be alcoholic like shaving water with a distant resemblance to (highly concentrated!) Tabac Original, but at the same time extremely balsamic and thus fresh and springy-soft at the same time. The smell impression is green-brownish, somehow herbaceous and tobacco like and indeed very close to what would be scolded in the Federal Republic of our time as an old men's fragrance, if this kind of perfume (in this quality especially) would not slowly fall out of the general olfactory memory again, because, yes, because the original friends of this fragrance are so slowly following the path of all earthly things. This creates scents such as "Russian Juchten", but at least the possibility to play in the future without any previous burden (as long as he survives the reformulations/exclusions at Lehmann!). Children are also called Paul, Elisabeth and Ludwig again.

The further course of the fragrance is similarly compact and linear as with many teachers (some see this as a malus, but I find this "complex stability" extremely serious, see my commentary on "Russian Eau de Cologne"). However, the balsamic softness increases more and more, the mossy herbaceousness steps somewhat into the background and a hunch of wood (sandalwood? patchouli?!) and - here the name comes to bear - leather comes up. From this point "Russian Juchten" becomes really gentlemanly and quite elegant. Rounded in this way, the fragrance remains on the skin for many hours, whereby the Sillage can be described as quite strong: One is addressed in "Russian Juchten", which by no means applies to many perfumes.

Maintaining an almost perfect balance between angular spiciness and balsamic softness is a truly extraordinary feature of this primitive rock and anyone looking for archetypal men's scents should place at least 15 ml of "Russian Juchten" on the shelf. Best before June of this year...
10 Replies

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