Chypre Palatin (2012)

Chypre Palatin by Parfums MDCI
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8.4 / 10     255 RatingsRatingsRatings
Chypre Palatin is a popular perfume by Parfums MDCI for men and was released in 2012. The scent is chypre-spicy. The longevity is above-average. It is still in production.

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Fragrance Notes

Top Notes Top NotesClementine, Galbanum, Hyacinth, Labdanum, Lavender, Thyme
Heart Notes Heart NotesGardenia, Iris, Jasmine, Plum, Rose
Base Notes Base NotesBenzoin, Castoreum, Oakmoss, Leather, Everlasting flower absolute, Styrax, Tolu balm, Vanilla

Ratings

Scent

8.4 (255 Ratings)

Longevity

8.5 (193 Ratings)

Sillage

7.2 (197 Ratings)

Bottle

8.3 (175 Ratings)
Submitted by Kankuro, last update on 09.08.2019
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Reviews

10.0 7.0 9.0 8.5/10
Floyd

0 Reviews
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Floyd
Floyd
Greatly helpful Review    11
The faces of the Palatine
I saw you coming out of a magnificent carriage from afar, down outside the gates of the castle. You seemed youthful and bold as you rushed through the gardens approaching, for a brief moment swirling the scent of ripe Hespirides, bitter herbs and lavender up to my window.
As you entered the hall, you held a luxuriant bouquet of flowers in your hands, but I could only catch its scent for a moment, for you quickly put the bouquet aside. Well-groomed you stood now before me, seemingly flawless your face seemed, cleansed with the finest rose soap, but rigid at first, as if it were covered with resins and wax, bitter and sweet at the same time, even. For half an hour we stood like this, face to face I tried to decipher you, only I could not. Good you are, yes, noble and grown up, but I could not see your facets.
Then I saw this expression in your eyes and you started to remind me of your little brother. I smelled the leather of your jacket, which in contrast to your brother's leather seemed to be covered with balsamic-honey-like sweetness, contrasting your animalistic, sparkly, bending-hilly gaze, iridescent for several hours before your face became gentler and milder, like warm, fragrant resins and soft vanilla, resting in a bed of oakmoss. Then you began to let go of me, left me completely after twelve hours.
You are beautiful, yes, balanced and sublime, never loud, but it is your younger brother who touches my heart, the leather rider, the "Cuir Cavalier". He is very similar to you, but he is more impetuous, yes, dirtier and raw, darker and deeper in his soft traits. I can see its facets, read it like a book.
8 Replies
9.0 8.0 9.0 10.0/10
DufterMann

0 Reviews
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DufterMann
DufterMann
Greatly helpful Review    13
For some a veritable confusion, for me the Holy Grail
Introduction:
I think it's been about 2 months since the lovely Parfumo TalkingHead sent me a few drops of his Chypre Palatin. The perfumer and the numerous good reviews here, especially from the people whose opinions very often agree with my own, naturally aroused my interest. Why I could only now overcome myself to write a comment worthy of the scent from my point of view, probably already explains the headline. We are definitely dealing with a fragrance that couldn't be more complex.

Bottle and packaging:
The outer packaging of the Chypre Palatin does not at first suggest a high-priced fragrance. A little bit unkind cardboard, on the front a sticker in a punched frame, where only the most important things can be seen: Name, brand, eau de parfum, content, vaporizer/ natural spray. Opening the OVP welcomes an even more cardboard box with MDCI lettering and a folding mechanism made of cardboard to secure the bottle. To be honest: unkindly implemented, just fulfils its purpose, but definitely works better when I look at other high-priced fragrances from my collection. If you then free the bottle from its gloomy home, you hold a very heavy glass bottle with a beautiful yellow-red bobble in your hand, MDCI in golden writing on the front, an equally golden lid that sits firmly on its spray head of the same colour, on the back in the same font is then still Paris printed and on the underside are then the most important information, which also stand on the packing and besides the address of CM Création & Diffusion (like those stand to MDCI, I could not find out however due to lacking French knowledge). Who now believes that I give the perfume 9 points in the category bottle, despite its lousy packaging, only because of the beautiful fragrance, is wrong. The bottle is very beautiful and above all of high quality, the atomizer does its job perfectly and MDCI apparently wanted to impress its customers with a beautiful presentation.

Description of fragrance:
Shortly after spraying on you are welcomed by a green, fresh cloud, the clementine gives the scent a little liveliness, the smell of sage candies spreads in my nose, slight hints of the top note of Chanel No 5 have an effect on me, which I attribute to aldehydes
(little side note: to make sure, the wrist of the fragrant woman just had to hold out again).
The top note lasts for some time, the clementine says goodbye and the scent becomes sharper and in the background the sweetness is also slowly noticeable, but at the moment still very, very quiet. The leather slowly emerges under the spicy note and fights for supremacy. But from a distance I still smell the ointment note, which still doesn't seem to want to admit defeat. Gradually the sweetness increases more and more, the ointment note is no longer present at all and the vanilla now takes over, slightly animal underlaid, but the green character is still maintained by the oak moss. Oakmoss and vanilla now walk hand in hand through the spice garden and conjure up a truly beautiful smell in the nose, where I still haven't had enough of it even after 2 months. There are a few scents that have managed to give me this feeling, but Chypre Palatin manages to keep this happiness for some time.
At the time I met him, unfortunately there was no bottle in the souk, the cheapest retailer price with 195 Euro plus shipping was unfortunately also no bargain, but I just had to have him and wrote Talking Head again. "If you can part with your Chypre Palatine. I've got to have it." He diced out a prize, the stars were good for me and a few days later the almost full bottle arrived together with beautiful further rehearsals. I can't say it enough, but you know how grateful I am to you for that.

So far, not a single fragrance I have tested has been able to bring in so many compliments, despite its complexity and the fact that most people around me are mainly used to designer fragrances. From "What is that nice aftershave?", to "You always smell good, but what is that you're wearing", to "You should also buy that perfume. The DufteMann smells so good today" everything was there. Chypre Palatin was also the trigger for the fact that I have tried Chypres more often lately. But no one really knocked me out. Through your comments I will definitely give Mitsouko a chance and Apicius' contribution was also very informative for me despite the scathing. Then I will now look further at the Oriental Chypres, if there is something else for me at.

Over and Out Your ScentMan
9 Replies
8.0 8.0 8.0 9.0/10
Jarrock32

10 Reviews
Jarrock32
Jarrock32
Helpful Review    2
Modern chypre perfection
Perfect, you can smell every note, nothing harsh or overwhelming, just smooth breeze of tangerine and vanilla vibe with some suede and fizzy aldhehydes rounding the composition between natural sweetness and tangy chypre feelings. After 30 minutes or 1 hour, comes closer to the skin and the leathery aspect takes a glorious leadership, with everything you could smell before but now in the background, and the leather simules how skin can smell luxurious and heavenly for itself. A true masterpiece concept.
Sadly everything goes down too fast, and in three - four hours, become a skin scent without the initial magic.
Masterpiece anyway.
1 Replies
jtd

484 Reviews
jtd
jtd
Greatly helpful Review    6
Chypre Palatin
International Fragrance Association (IFRA) restrictions on materials have made the chypre the bellwether in the reformulation debate. Limiting the quantity of oakmoss that may be used and the type of bergamot allowed, the IFRA have knocked out two legs of the chypre tripod. The limitations have pushed perfumers to reconsider composition and materials-producers to search for novel chemicals and botanicals.

The question remains: is it possible to make a true chypre perfume today? And if so, how? I don’t know the engineering of perfume composition enough to say what’s under the hood of the current lineup of chypre perfumes, but there seem to be a few strategies. Chanel go the route of re-creating the geometry of the composition so as to suggest the chypre. Thierry Wasser has apparently fiddled with the forces of the nature and reconfigured the chemical structure of oakmoss (Mitsouko) and reanimated the chypre. Vero Kern, god knows how, simply makes a chypre with Onda.

The wonder of the chypre is that you smell bergamot, oakmoss and amber at the same time that the totality of the perfume rises above the materials. Chypre Palatin has some of the characteristic elements of the chypre. It has great sillage in the headnotes, a raspy heart and a warm, leathery drydown. Like a chypre its evolution is gradual but substantive. Overall, though, it’s simply smells like the sum of its parts.

Chypre Palatin lacks this synergy and therefore lacks soul. In a go-big-or-go-home attempt to deceive, Parfums MDCI would have us believe that Chypre Palatin is not simply a chypre, but a ‘palatial’ one and they charge accordingly. ($250/75 ml) Despite Parfums MDCI’s goal of high art in perfume, a big-name perfumer and an emphasis on the finest materials, Chypre Palatin swings and misses. It is a chypre in the way a tofu steak is meat and carob-chip cookies are satisfying. It doesn’t appear like an attempt to reinvent the chypre so much as a ploy to fool the buyer.

from scenthurdle.com
1 Replies
ColinM

516 Reviews
ColinM
ColinM
Helpful Review    7
Pointless and pedantic
Yet another MDCI scent I don’t get the value of. I tested this twice, the first one some months ago, then some weeks ago, just to see if my nose “grew better” and I could be able to get the good of this scent. I didn’t, it still smelled exactly as much dull as the other time. Here’s what I get: an aldehydic floral-fruity chypre, soapy and talc, with citrus top notes and an artificial rendition of musky-civet notes with dark woods, restrained and quite understated. Surely elegant, classy, pleasant to wear, radiant and obscure at the same time... just like dozens of others. My “problem” with this and other similar fragrances (Roja Dove, Bogue), which despite being niche just stand on the shoulders of previous mainstream giants, is that I can’t help not taking this as a mere ghost of a chypre, pedantically duplicating that type of structures and accords, just with a more contemporary allure due to nowadays’ ingredients – this meaning lighter, more synthetic, more plain. More bright in a way, and that may be positive. I am ok with this, as there is plenty of uncreative perfumes just reiterating these and other styles on purpose; I just don’t get why paying so much for this, and why this shall be considered niche, which shall be the “élite avantgarde” of perfumery. The materials smell ok to me, the rip-off work is fine, the persistence is crap, where’s the plus justifying the incredibly high price? Not questioning other peoples’ money choices, but I am clueless on the reason why one should even just look for this. Nice and compelling in the least interesting meaning ever for me.

5,5-6/10
5.0 7.5 8.0/10
Efemmeral

18 Reviews
Efemmeral
Efemmeral
4
She's a Keeper
Glorious. Elegant, complex, far too distracting in her beauty. Direct, businesslike herbs ride on the killer curves of plum and castoreum. There's such a buzz and warmth about her with labdanum and vanilla, a throaty laugh and earthy humour, but woe betide those attracting her acerbic wit or the crack crack of her fine fine leather.

If she takes the reins, (and you should let her) enjoy the ride of the florals: gardenia, I swear, and jonquils and roses. The depth and smoothness of iris. Blissful ride to end with the comfort of balsam and resin. I want to wear it *forever*.
7.5 5.0 7.5 9.0/10
Pipette

63 Reviews
Pipette
Pipette
2
Chypre Palatin - my Chypre
Designed for the men, maybe. But what makes this scent so wearable for the ladies is the creamy floriental vibe. Green and mossy - certainly, it starts like that. Close to the skin, the nose perceives strong notes, but the projection is soft and mild. And so clean at the same time. Clean as in "modern". I was never sorry that certain vintages were discontinued, they were not for me anyhow as I don't really like oakmoss. Too stuffy, too harsh. Well, if in the course of reformulation rules a replacement oakmoss ingredient was used here, that is just fine with me, because this is what makes the scent wearable for me.

There is another Chypre which I have been testing, "Chypre Mousse" by Oriza L. Legrand. There are miles of difference between those two Chypres. The latter is more an experience of hefty green notes in nature (forest thicket) whereas "Chypre Palatin" is elegant, modern, demanding attention with the subtle sillage, and rewarding for the wearer herself.

Price is a factor, but the sample of 12 ml is big, so there is time to envison a precious full bottle later on. I love perfumes that are unique and costly. They are then reserved for special occasions. I could see myself wearing "Chypre Palatin" sitting in a concert and while being attentive to the musical accords, be surrounded by long lasting smooth green scent accords, a total immersion in beauty.
10.0 5.0 7.5 6.0/10
Drseid

670 Reviews
Drseid
Drseid
Very helpful Review    6
Is This *Really* A Throwback Chypre?...
Goes on with a blast of either tarragon or lime-like aldehydes with maybe just a hint of orange well in the background, barely detectable. The scent almost immediately turns mild to moderately powdery, most likely due to iris being a key heart note and it makes its appearance extremely early, while hanging around throughout. The powdery iris couples with rose and jasmine before joining with a small amount of oakmoss peeping into the scent's heart from the base notes. The oakmoss remains in the base, while also featuring a decent dose of castoreum that is well-integrated, and a powdery vanilla that sweetens the scent just a tad, while never veering into the "too sweet" territory. Projection is average, while longevity is average to above average.

Chypre Palatin is billed as a "throwback" vintage chypre, but I have to respectfully disagree. I find it quite modern, and that is my biggest problem with it. The powdery nature of the scent just does not remind me of the best chypres of old, instead Duchaufour plows new ground in having Chypre Palatin remain classy and elegant in its mild powdery nature throughout but it just does not mesh with my tastes. I personally like my chypres heavier on the oakmoss and lower on the powder showing a bit less polish and a bit more "spunk." While I won't be buying a bottle, I can see why many folks who have tried this have really fallen in love with it as it is top quality. If you like powdery modern scents Chypre Palatin is absolutely worth a sniff and maybe even a purchase if you can afford its relatively lofty price tag. I give Chypre Palatin a solid "good" rating and 3 to 3.5 out of 5 stars.
1 Replies
10.0 7.5 7.5 7.0/10
Gold

468 Reviews
Gold
Gold
Helpful Review    6
Skanky Huge Retro Chypre
I was so keen on trying this perfume that I spent 12 Euros on a German website for a decant of this stuff, hailed as the "ultimate new chypre" by many perfume-lovers. Alas, I can't share any of the enthusiasm. "Chypre Palatin" has strong topnotes which produce a totally unpleasant effect - I have to say that the topnotes are vomit-inducing. Hyacinth and sage, galbanum and lavender plus clementine don't seem to merge, the result is a weird cacophonic accord. To my great relief, the fragrance becomes better the longer you wear it (it reminded me of "Eau de Rochas"), but it's not in the least outstanding. The flowers (iris, gardenia, rose) add some warmth, but the drydown is marked by a strong dominance of benzoin and castoreum, which convey an animalic touch to the composition. You could also call it skanky or dirty. Oakmoss is there, too (yes, it's a chypre), but the entire composition feels like the attempt to revive an old genre by adding up as many ingredients from the perfumer's palette as possible. The French word "empilement" used by Elléna occurs to me in this context: Duchaufour piled one ingredient on the other but didn't achieve any harmony.
"Chypre Palatin" is a difficult and retro kind of fragrance. It seems to embody the gloomy and harsh parts of the "chypre genre", completely ignoring the elegant and sophisticated qualities some landmark chypres possess (think Mitsouko, Givenchy III or Jubilation 25). This new chypre lacks proportion and in spite of the excellent quality of the ingredients used, it's a proof of the fact that snobbery in perfumery is pointless. A 50 ml refill bottle of "Chypre Palatin" will cost you about 210 Euros. I'd rather spend my money on a bottle of Bottega Veneta, to choose a contemporary mainstream example, not a vintage or a classic. A huge ripoff in my book, this new EdP by MDCI Paris.
1 Replies

Statements

Q8baggio 2 years ago
citrus goodness...smooth sweet Ambery chypre ...perfect new take on chypre .+4
7.0
8.0
9.0
10.0
Hermesh 4 years ago
A modern classic. Stylish and elegant. Duchaufour's masterpiece!+1
10.0
7.5
10.0
10.0

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