Translated Show originalShow translation
Finely spiced and seasoned orange peel
I first heard about the Parfum d'Empire brand some time ago. But I didn't know any fragrances from this house at first.
But since there are so many wonderful, helpful and generous sniffing noses here, sooner or later a sample from this fragrance house should land with me. A few months ago I tested Cuir Ottoman, which I did not like at all (leather, aha). And with that I was finished with the brand.
But after the excellent description of our highly appreciated Yatagan to Azemour Les Orangers, I put the fragrance on my watch list, but did not actively search for the scent at first, as other impressions came up in the meantime.
But now the opportunity arose to test the fragrance extensively.
The direction citric-green is always a very important factor for me, I like citrus fruits and green scents very much
But there is a lot more to Azemour Les Orangers than that.
The Parfum d'Empire house, founded in 2002 by Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, is based in Paris. Born in Morocco, Mr. Corticchiato was an enthusiastic show rider until he decided to study chemistry and to immerse himself in the world of fragrances.
What pleases me is the fact that not every year a lot of fragrances and countless offshoots are brought onto the market, but that a certain amount of time passes until new releases are made.
This is probably also due to the fact that the fragrance house is still completely owned and not run by one of the big corporations and the perfumer has much more freedom and time to create fragrances.
With Azemour Les Orangers he has created a homage to his homeland.
This is already noticeable in the prelude, when the strong scent of orange peel emerges, sunny and fully ripe, and almost immediately an oriental spice of coriander, pepper and cumin mixes into this pleasant scent. Now cumin is a rather difficult spice. I appreciate it in fine doses in chili con carne and when I prepare taboulé, I always add a touch of cumin to the salad, and a hint of cumin should be added to the yoghurt and mint dip. But the spice should be used with care, otherwise it can be terrible.
This cumin note develops quite sweaty with some, I have already noticed this with some fragrances.
Here I do not notice any sweaty note, the spice is finely balanced and not disturbing.
If the fragrance starts out quite fresh at first, it develops somewhat darker and warmer notes after a while, contracts more, light floral tones are added, not conspicuous, more suggestive ones. In addition, a more dry spiciness, mossy and grassy notes develop.
And green-spicy the fragrance then also sounds out.
None of this is highly complex, but remains subtle and unagitated.
It seems to me that the scent passes from summer to winter in its course. The citrus fruits represent the captured sunshine, the floral and herbaceous notes the autumn and the warm spicy components the winter.
So I see the areas of application of the fragrance almost more in the cooler season, even though it is not heavy overall.
The shelf life of Azemour Les Orangers is about 7 hours, after about 2 hours the fragrance becomes body-hugging. From the very beginning it does not spread a room-filling veil of scent and even one or two too many sprayers are no drama The prices are not the cheapest, but still reasonably moderate. And you notice the very good workmanship and the high quality raw materials that have been selected for the fragrance.
I have also read some less enthusiastic texts here in the comments. This is understandable, since this direction does not necessarily suit everyone and the spices are not everybody's cup of tea And since our noses and tastes are all as different as the many different characters here, opinions differ widely.
I always tell myself that if I don't like a fragrance, there is more left for those who do. Or vice versa
Whether Azemour Les Orangers will ever move in with me, I can't say yet. But I'll keep it in mind It has been noted that the fragrance has probably been declared one of the best fragrances of recent years. That is of course gratifying, but I cannot say anything about that because I do not deal with perfume critics myself. I still trust my own nose :-)
I would also like to take up another example of oranges with spice, Déclaration by Cartier. For me, this fragrance is an outright abomination, dull and musty. It puts me on the run It's not like that here.
I thank Yatagan very much for this really beautiful fragrance experience!