Le Cri de la Lumière (2017)

Le Cri de la Lumière by Parfum d'Empire
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Le Cri de la Lumière is a popular perfume by Parfum d'Empire for women and men and was released in 2017. The scent is floral-powdery. It is still in production.

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Fragrance Notes

Ambrette, Rose, Iris

Ratings

Scent

8.2 (33 Ratings)

Longevity

7.6 (28 Ratings)

Sillage

6.7 (28 Ratings)

Bottle

7.4 (27 Ratings)
Submitted by Michael, last update on 21.08.2019
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Reviews

7.0 7.0 8.0 8.5/10
Serenissima

0 Reviews
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Serenissima
Serenissima
Greatly helpful Review    19
the goddess of light
The two fragrances of Parfum d'Empire, which I have been able to get to know so far, I really liked in their peculiarity: "Wazamba", the slightly different frankincense fragrance, and "Ambre Russe", which always reminds me of a small buzz that softens everything a bit.
So of course I was very curious when Yatagan sent me a bottle of "Le Cri de la Lumière".
What would expect me here?

"La Cri de la Lumière" really lives up to its name: it's light!
No warm, soft light - no, this light is bright, almost glistening!
As if one were looking over an untouched, sunlit blanket of snow: the shadows created by this light are not black, but deep dark blue!
First of all one would like to close one's eyes to this abundance of light.
So at the end of this fragrance course the goddess of light is probably also in bright backlight!
Whether it brings good or less good will be seen.

"La Cri de la Lumière" opens like a lace cape: light, transparent and amazingly flowery.
The roses in full blossom of beauty exude their scent almost lavishly. In my opinion, these are not heavy, red blossoming tea roses, but the elegant, fragile yellow tea roses - just as I remember them from my childhood and youth: a fragrance that floats and doesn't hit the drum!
(I am sure: Fragrances can do that too - just these deep, full-bodied rose fragrances!)
In addition there is an iris, which here really is an equal partner of the rose: both flower scents unite in the most harmonious way.
Already now "La Cri de la Lumière" has an astonishing clarity (even more sensitive souls than I would call this perfumed fabric "cold"!).
To counteract this, a good portion of the strongly eroticizing musk seed oil - Ambrettesamen - was added.
Under normal circumstances "La Cri de la Lumière" would fly around my ears now: too much eroticism for me old woman!
But amazingly: the coolness of the blossom scents seems to neutralize this hot fire - a lively but not excitingly flowing fragrance is created.
That now even a certain powderiness can not deny. As clear and transparent as at the beginning, this fragrance is no longer: it has practically lost its innocence!
That makes it more interesting of course (not quite so undercooled boring!).
It reminds of a slightly blushing marble statue (oh, she is blushing!)

The Sillage is a little weak on the chest, the shelf life pleasant; this fragrance fades slowly in a friendly and quiet way: it gives pleasure to spray after.
The again so sympathetically round bottle form invites almost to touch.

Yatagan reports on my statement that Luca Turin has chosen "La Cri de la Lumière" as one of the most beautiful fragrances currently available.
Now for me Signor Turin is not the "God of Fragrances" he seems to be to many.
Some of his judgments seem a little harsh to me; many things are incomprehensible to me.
Maybe my senses here are as bulky as I am myself sometimes - with easily fold-out spines!
But anyway, in this case, I can agree with him. "La Cri de la Lumière" has something extraordinary that makes this fragrance an elegant, unobtrusive companion at all times of the day.
It only seems to be a fine veil that hovers around its wearer, and yet this fragrance composition has a presence that is imprinted on its surroundings in a very pleasant way.
It's like a light "raise your head, trace something attentively, listen ...".

"La Cri de la Lumière" is there; a fragrance that cools, that warms, that protects - yes, that becomes part of the whole!
It reminds of a well-fitting garment, a well-fitting shoe.
The "goddess of light" seems to live here in the bottle and is always there when we need her!
I am afraid that in future we will have to make frequent efforts in this direction ...
7 Replies
jtd

484 Reviews
jtd
jtd
Very helpful Review    6
le cri
From the first sniff of Cri, you’re drawn directly to the center of the perfume. Perfumer Marc-Antoine Corticchiato even factors in the volitility of the alcohol burning off and uses it to segue into a lustrous accord with the olfactory dynamic of an eau de vie. The topnote is like the scent of Poire Williams brandy or Slivovitz, where the fruit is pressed so far into the alcohol that it is reduced to essentials. It’s neither juicy nor sweet and has an incisive slant. My note from first sampling Cri de la Limière reads, “Super fruity but dry as fuck.” Not the loftiest of insights, but apt. The Poire Williams note is the perfect backdrop for a sleek iris note. Woody, rooty, cool to the touch. Matching iris to the desiccated fruit brings out the vegetal nature of ambrette.

Cri de la Lumière is a closely tailored perfume that holds to a tight dynamic range. Rather than broaden the composition the musk accord focuses it, though the perfume sidesteps the strictness that a minimalist approach can impart. The rosy, fruity facets of ambrette are balanced by a plastic quality that gives a deliberate synthiness to the perfume. The fruit appears embedded in clear lucite and the slightly peony-like berry/rose gives a transparent pink sheen to the perfume. The effect is perfectly calibrated and though subtle, is durable. The fruit gives Cri de la Lumière a stained-glass effect and despite the specificity of the fruit notes, the perfume reads as fairly abstract.

The perfume’s woodier side reveals itself periodically like a bit of slip showing. Once I spotted it, I couldn’t stop looking for it to reappear. This sort of diversion is a good example of how Corticchiato’s perfumes engage the wearer. Whether in a forceful perfume like Tabac Tabou or a more watercolor one like Osmanthus Interdite his perfumes reward your attention with engaging olfactory shapes and transitions. The perfume plays subtly with the animalism found in musk ambrette. (Musk ambrette smells like a sweaty, imaginary fruit.) Of the various dimensions of the material, the animalic feature is among the most durable. Corticchiato doesn’t hide the material’s ‘skin’ side but he does nest it fairly deep into the perfume, where is is a quiet foil to the plastic, acrylic details.

from scenthurdle.com
6.0 7.0 7.0 7.0/10
Gandix

0 Reviews
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Gandix
Gandix
5
Businessman - with that you sell everything ( you mean )
Starts dry, with a short alcohol prelude, then becomes iris-woody, with musk strokes; only much later is some rose added and some ambrette and lets the scent become somewhat unisex.

Speed handkerchief, I can understand this cover very well, but while pondering about this smell, I had another picture in front of my eyes.

Somehow it smelled clean, but it didn't smell like detergent either. I have to think about freshly ironed shirts. And trousers with creases. So not this steam, but this perfectly styled outfit. Just like a bank manager would go to work - the businessman.
There's something trustworthy about the fragrance. This businessman would sell you anything from the most unnecessary insurance to the most expensive credit Fast
Because after about an hour the rose and the artificial ambrette appear.
The fragrance becomes pompous and the businessman turns out to be a little greasy when you ask him questions...
more lies and deception,
more appearance than being.
You didn't fall for him. He says goodbye with a red head,
pulls out his tempo handkerchief and wipes his sweating forehead.

Too bad. I thought it would be the perfect scent for real businessmen.
2 Replies
7.0 8.0 9.0 7.5/10
Augusto

0 Reviews
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Augusto
Augusto
4
Cri comes from shrieks (or vice versa)
After the discovery of Equistrius I am first of all fire and flame for PdE. So, I tried the next one right away:

When sprayed on, AugustA hears a bright, loud scream. One would almost need sunglasses for the nose, so brightly the light breaks through into the coolness of the morning. Gleißend bright, loud, these flowers. Yeah, it's heading towards screeching. But it doesn't always have to be gentle.

Appearance, breakthrough through the dark, no slow sunrise for connoisseurs. Lots of sky, air, light, everything very open to the top, no grounding. The scent takes you up with it, with power. Fascinating and also exhausting, I mean too much for the sensory perception limited to smell. One should actually see pictures of it, glistening bright sunbeams, white clouds in the bright blue sky, orchestral music. No ground contact.
Acids and aldehydes? They lie down bit by bit, become a little calmer until it finally reminds you earthly of detergent.

The departure embodied by the fragrance, the excessive radiance and glare is still visible after hours and the cry of the new morning, which has defeated the night, is unmistakable. But unfortunately also a little bit always the same persistent tone.
It's a constant on my eardrum, no matter how well this scent is made.
2 Replies
10.0 7.0 9.0 9.0/10
Fqjcior

10 Reviews
Fqjcior
Fqjcior
Very helpful Review    6
A female Masterpiece from a masculine Master Perfumer.
The latest perfume proposal from Marc-Antoine Corticchiato – Le Cri de la Lumière – is a very feminine and sensual perfume, at the same time surprisingly modern as for the rather classic style of this talented perfumer. It also amazes me with its unusual construction and delights with distinct evolution on the skin.

Le Cri de La Lumière (Cry of light – what a poetic name!) is made of five essential notes/ ingredients. Intro owes its unusual sound of ambertte seed known as vegetable musk. This essence from the seeds of Indian hibiscus (Abelmoschus moschatus) has an unusual, slightly botanical, slightly musky and at the same time subtly fruity character, which can be smelled in its full splendor in Peruvian Ambrette from Essenze Zegna series. Also here, this note is expressive and smells very natural. Forwarding it to the head phase of the fragrance was a rare and brave step. This ingredient usually builds a perfume base – like musk – deepening and fixing the main note. Here it plays its main role at the beginning what can make the opening of Le Cri de la Lumière surprising and quite demanding. We immediately know that this is a perfume addressed to more sophisticated users, as is the entire Parfum d’Empire offer.

For an untrained nose, this aroma may be an obstacle that cannot be overcome. Well, that would be a shame, because Le Cri de La Lumière – like a well-written book – reveals its next chapters over time. The further, the more beautiful they are and lead to a truly charming finale.
Ambrette has been combined here with a very natural note of iris that matches it naturally. This extremely precious ingredient adds seriousness and sophisticated elegance to the initial phase. Iris is unique in its kind, refined, powdery-floral-earthy. In a word – amazing, immediately introducing the aura of chic, refined elegance and distance. After next two quarters nostrils begin – quite unexpectedly – smell the aroma in its provenance as classical as the iris but given in a much more contemporary way. From now on, Le Cri de La Lumière gradually loses his serious face and begins to smile flirtatiously…
Here, in its heart a beautiful and stunningly fragrant Turkish rose was planted. It was then poured with a large portion of musk on a subtle wood foundation, approaching to the signature of one of my absolutely favorite women’s perfumes – For Her from Narciso Rodriguez! Say what you want, but this work by Christine Nagel and Francis Kurkdjian is a genius perfume and completely timeless in its overwhelming femininity! It is true that Corticchiato presented this wonderful, extremely feminine and sensual chord in a slightly less spectacular and more cautious manner, but still very beautiful.

If someone did not survive ambrette and iris intro, she/ he will not be lucky enough to experience the beauty of the heart of this scent. Therefore – I beg you – do not judge this perfume after the head notes or even after the first 3-4 quarters, because in this case that would be an essential error!
Le Cri de La Lumière was created for you to slowly, step by step, contemplate and admire its changing aroma. The aforementioned charming rose-wood-musky chord persists on the skin for quite a long time, slowly fading out, not being, however, for a single moment clamorous or intrusive. Elegance and moderation is here above everything.

Le Cri de La Lumière enchanted me. This perfectly designed perfume contains various faces of femininity – from the somewhat wild, uncouth, through proud and intimidatingly beautiful to the romantic, passionate, sensual and smiling. The last one is in its majority in Le Cri de La Lumière. And that’s probably why I like this perfume so much…

main notes: ambrette seed, irys, turkish rose, musk, woods

launched in: 2017

perfumer: Marc-Antoine Corticchiato
1 Replies
8.0 4.0 6.0 7.5/10
StellaDiverF

211 Reviews
StellaDiverF
StellaDiverF
3
Sparkling Gemstone
After a brief whiff of a waxy, faintly rooty, lipstick-like iris, Le Cri de la Lumière soon bursts into a dazzlingly bright light of ambrette. It has a somewhat starchy, grainy texture, underscored by the iris lurking around. There is also an astringency over the steamy, clean vegetal musk, swinging back and forth between the alcoholic taste of pear liqueur, and the fizzy, faintly soapy aldehyde.

If ambrette and iris make the main body of the glaring white beam of Le Cri, it's the rose and a green nuance that transform it into an opalescent gemstone. The rose here is slightly tart, reminiscent of the wine-like facet of a classic rose-patchouli accord but much, much softer and less saturated in tone. In the Fragrantica interview, M. Corticchiato talked about using a cleaner version of patchouli and vetiver, and creating a lightweight moss-like greenness thanks to other innovative materials. I'm unable to perceive patchouli or vetiver in a distinctive manner, but the mossy greenery without its heaviness is spot on to describe the green nuance that I smell in Le Cri. Actually, Le Cri reminds me of a rose version of Heeley Chypre 21, which also focus primarily on a clean, vaporous white musk and a diaphanous mossy greenery.

This olfactive firework doesn't last long, though. After about 2 hours, Le Cri is already a gentle, smooth clean white musk with a drop of sweet pear juice. To be clear, the musk here doesn't evoke laundry detergent to me, but reminiscent of the sensual smell of skin freshly out of bed.

Afterwards, Le Cri retains this innocent, pure clean musk skin scent until the end. It stays close to skin for the most of the time, and lasts about 7 hours on me.

Le Cri de la Lumière aims to interpret the light with its perfume, and I think it succeeds beautifully with this radiant, crystalline composition. Its first 2 hours let ambrette shine like a glowing star among other supporting notes, demonstrating that one can make a clean fragrance without sacrificing its nuances or sophistication.

However, as smooth and versatile as the dry down is, I'm still a bit disappointed by the quick departure of the gleaming ambrette. Moreover, I was not touched by it on a personal level like with many other creations from Parfum d'Empire, probably because this type of clean, aldehydic floral green musk is ultimately not my cup of tea.

That being said, Le Cri is definitely among the better-made perfumes in this genre. If you enjoy sparkling, pure white musk with a nod to classic aldehydic and chypre perfumes, I think Le Cri de la Lumière is worth considering at least a test.
1 Replies

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