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The gates of perception
Today is my fifth perfumo birthday and this is my 80th comment. When I signed up here and just owned a perfume, I never thought I'd get so much into this topic. So it's all the nicer to be able to look back on the experiences I've had and take some insights with me. This can be explained quite well with the example of Nisean:
1) Both your own preferences and olfactory perception change over time. It is therefore worthwhile to retest some fragrances with a longer time interval. If I had not done so, I would not have Portrait of a Lady and Nisean, for example
2) Even brands that at first seem uninteresting can still launch fragrances that you like. Parfums de Marly has a lot of gourmand/sweets to offer - a category I don't like at all. I am also not very enthusiastic about horses. And yet, with Percival and Nisean, I have two fragrances of the brand in my collection.
3) To estimate realistically the sillage/projection itself is basically impossible. Your own perception has its limits and the nose - or more precisely the brain - quickly adapts certain scents, so that you often do not even notice them properly. Although Nisean lasts quite long, I initially classified it as rather skin-tight, but through feedback from other people I realized that the performance is much better.
4) Sometimes names or background information on perfumes make people adopt certain trivia. So I would never have known before that 'Nisean' refers to an Iranian horse breed that is long extinct, but because of its large, robust physiognomy and speed has long been in great demand...
(The list could of course be continued.)
And how does Nisean smell now? - Overall less complex than the listed notes might suggest, but still interesting and balanced enough. Immediately after spraying on, lime and grapefruit are already perceptible, but rather sour and not so typically refreshing, as the woody and resinous side, which essentially makes up Nisean, is revealed right at the beginning. As so often, the fresh facets here are less intense on my skin than on paper. Saffron is very present in the first hours and gives the fragrance a pleasant spiciness without being too demanding. I would never have recognized floral notes in the blind test, because the qualities that best describe Nisean are woody, dry and balsamic. Patchouli is one of the dominant notes, but in the form of the fragrance Akigalawood, it is much cleaner and less earthy than usual. Sandalwood also contributes a warm woody note, but does not appear creamy as is sometimes the case. Cistus / labdanum gives Nisean a darker, resinous quality, which fortunately is not accompanied by a thick amber chord.
Probably certain synthetic fragrances were still used here, which prevent Nisean from becoming too heavy and dark. That's why it doesn't bother me that the progression - apart from the top notes - is quite linear. I find it pleasant that no too strong spice, no flowers and above all no turgid sweetness destroys the fragrance. I find Nisean calming, yet strong and somewhat dark. But who knows... ...maybe my perception will change...