Top Notes
Lemon
Cardamom
Mugwort
Rosemary
Heart Notes
Lavender
Violet
Base Notes
Patchouli
Cedar
Musk
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Collection
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Notes05/18/2021
WildGardener
250 Reviews
WildGardener
2
Heart of Darkness
The first time Jean-Louis Sieuzac’s Heart of Darkness appeared was in Or Black.
It contained a version of the engine oil accord which was one pillar of Fahrenheit, the other being violet leaf (Grey Flannel 1975) and this may, or may not, be tucked away in the herbal notes found in the original Or Black.
Modern Or Black is a dark fougère with aromatic, molasses, fruity, fizzy, and classic chypre elements, but that would suggest it’s more complex than it really is. There is more decoration, but at core, it’s actually quite simple, a leathery fougère. But, because it’s a deep, and deeply blended hybrid, and thanks to its dark tonality, it has an air of mystery that evades pigeon-holing.
It’s a fine perfume, but when either version is compared to the original Fahrenheit, it’s obvious Or Black isn’t of the same level. Or Black is a first sketch, Fahrenheit the finished masterpiece.
Which isn’t to say Or Black is a bad work, far from it. It’s outstanding, and the 2014 version has new vigour compared to the old - and by now - slightly faded juice of the original.
At first I criticised the new one for its harsh alcohol overtone, which implies it was rushed out too soon, and the budget price would corroborate that. But now it’s matured, the new version of this saturnine fougère is thoroughly excellent.
It contained a version of the engine oil accord which was one pillar of Fahrenheit, the other being violet leaf (Grey Flannel 1975) and this may, or may not, be tucked away in the herbal notes found in the original Or Black.
Modern Or Black is a dark fougère with aromatic, molasses, fruity, fizzy, and classic chypre elements, but that would suggest it’s more complex than it really is. There is more decoration, but at core, it’s actually quite simple, a leathery fougère. But, because it’s a deep, and deeply blended hybrid, and thanks to its dark tonality, it has an air of mystery that evades pigeon-holing.
It’s a fine perfume, but when either version is compared to the original Fahrenheit, it’s obvious Or Black isn’t of the same level. Or Black is a first sketch, Fahrenheit the finished masterpiece.
Which isn’t to say Or Black is a bad work, far from it. It’s outstanding, and the 2014 version has new vigour compared to the old - and by now - slightly faded juice of the original.
At first I criticised the new one for its harsh alcohol overtone, which implies it was rushed out too soon, and the budget price would corroborate that. But now it’s matured, the new version of this saturnine fougère is thoroughly excellent.
HugoMontez
