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Barbershop in a different way.
If a so-called barbershop fragrance wants to arouse my goodwill - others rather talk about fougère fragrances - he doesn't have it easy. Lavender, probably the most obligatory element in such a perfume, may be present, but please dose it carefully. Otherwise I'll quickly lose my mood, as I unfortunately had to find out with "masculien Pluriel" from Kurkdjian.
Herbs or generally green notes are also allowed, but please keep them present in an appropriate degree. Tom Ford's "Beau de Jour", for example, has a little bit too much of this, and the lavender is also clearly too herbaceous for me here.
I wear barbershop fragrances as long as they are consistent with lavender, which is not too herbaceous or scratchy, and the greenery - often herbs or vetiver - is neatly integrated and does not take over the complete olfactory dominance within a fragrance composition.
In the end, all this means that I have a hard time finding the right barbershop fragrance for me, which should be classic but by no means stale.
Now I recently acquired a small bottling here in the souk, which was drawn from an exciting, but somehow also rather kitschy, but almost unmistakable bottle. The name "The Tragedy of Lord George" may have a certain background (I think I once saw something on Youtube), but fortunately, there is no need to speak of a tragedy here.
Everything starts with an alcoholic prelude, which is definitely due to the brandy that can be found in this really very clear scent pyramid. It is a little bit sweetish at the beginning, which is typical for many alcoholic beverages. A bit of woodiness also resonates - reminiscent of a brewery cellar. The alcoholic sweetness fades into the background after only a few seconds, which is probably caused by the addition of shaving soap, a somewhat strange scent. This scent is strange because there are many different kinds of soap in terms of smell and ingredients. It is this soap that now provides the barbershop flair. It seems as if we are dealing with one that is based on lavender and rose. After all, I smell something subtly herbaceous, but it doesn't sting my nose at all or remind me of my grandfather's always overdosed after shave. The rose, which I also heard, captivates with a reserved, very clean and above all mature appearance. I think this is a nice contrast, with which one can counter my fear note, the lavender. Perhaps other perfumers should take a look at this as well.
By the way, the initial brandy woodiness is still present, will accompany us throughout the entire fragrance and is on the whole a really well implemented alcoholic note that appeals to me. Other waters, which play generously with rum or whiskey, do not manage this.
After we have devoted ourselves to the first two fragrances, which are of course somehow composed of several, we now turn our attention to the tonka bean, which is added a little later and succeeds in giving the still quite conservative-scented creation a twist of modernity, whereby I like to replace the attribute "conservative" with "classic", which is inevitably associated with timelessness. Through the tonka bean - not too sweet or vanilla here - Alberto Morillas underlines his, in my opinion, successful interpretation of a clean barbershop scent with a little sweetness. Here, too, all of this takes place in a controlled way. Nothing is hyperglycaemic, sticky or prescription for diabetics. There is also no prescription requirement as far as durability and sillage are concerned, because the environment is neither harassed nor slain. Some lavender barbershop competitors also know this differently. All in all, this fragrance is a good alternative for fougère-sensitive noses. I would even claim that there is a certain signature fragrance potential if - yes, if - the price wasn't there