For long, very long time, I was nuts about nut fragrance and looking for the perfect nut perfume.
"Nut" as perfume is actually not an easy matter, as I naively thought first. Hazelnut, apparelled with a little creaminess and sweetness, in the end simply smells like nougat. Nougat is very tasty, but not „nut“. And nougat fragrance on the skin is only bearable with greatest gourmand-tolerance (for instance: "Coeur de Noisette" by Sinfonia di Note). The hazelnut note, to avoid a gourmand-overkill combined instead with bitter and woody accents, gives a wonderful scent, but not truely nutty and only for men ... not a little unisex, no matter what the marketing declares (for instance: "Forêt de Becharre" of Nez à Nez or "Aomassaï No.10" by Parfumerie Generale). Nutty, but not hazelnutty, not nut-nutty, only quasi-nutty, are pistachio scents, I found. The sunny, fresh pistachio of "Lentisques" by 06130 excites me regularly. As well pistachio ice-cream ("The Iceberg Fragrance" by Iceberg) and the supposedly (but not really) extremely sensual porn-pistachio of "Nuda" by Il Profvmo could win my favour, but the nutty supernut was not found. I could not crack this nut, so I gave up the search.
Until there was the meeting of Parfumo-members in Hamburg in November 2011. The skillful and odoriferous group visited as well the wonderful master-niche-shop „Lubner“ and there finally I found the true nut fragrance: Praliné de Santal.
The name (praliné) promised the already-known nougat, but no… ! There was it! The pure, true, clear hazelnut!
This fragrance is nut! Nut, nut, nut! Such a supernutty nut, real nuts can´t be so nutty. The substance of nut itself - the hypernut!
In the top note this hypernut is accompanied by a shortly lasting bergamot and a hint of light and bright flowers. After just a few minutes, the central, dominant, abundant hypernut becomes darker and darker and a little bitter. It is roasted! This effect is achieved by dusty and dry wood. The name-giving sandal is easily recognized and the cedar is flanking. The fragrance gets darker and drier in the course: Ultimately dark and ultimately dry. Still, this ultimate nut is very shiny. The hazelnut is not simply a component that gives its part, but the pivotal point of PdS. Without any compromise.
There is a certain degree of salinity when the middle note developes and a slight smokiness. But I cannot smell the pretzel-association reported by other Parfumo-members.
With the drydown PdS becomes less loud and outgoing, but stays still very distinct hazelnutty. It calms on a smooth and warm cushion of sandal and (not mentioned above) amber.
PdS is (even if you have not carried an unfulfilled nut-lust for long time) a beautiful winter fragrance. Very dark, very dry and woody, soft and warm. A scent like black-brown cashmere-wool. PdS is very sensual and has depth. The development is surprisingly not monochrome, unfolds in several chapters the in fact multi-dimensional appeal of nut.
My 100% testing is not only a result of my own nut-desire, to which I can now abandon myself licentiously. I recommend very much testing this artfully composed, exciting and beautiful hypernutty fragrance!