09/10/2023
Kurai
375 Reviews
Kurai
Helpful Review
3
Still waters run deep
This Profumum finds itself in kind of a blind spot of the community. The note list - concise as always - may not be all that inviting perhaps. For me, though, the mentioning of magnolia as one the main notes was the reason to give it a try. I had just got acquainted with Eau de Magnolia, which managed to impress me and kept me longing for more magnolia variations.
Just like Eau de Magnolia, Eccelso is built around a crystal clear bergamot-magnolia accord. The Malle uses a shy oakmoss to break the accord's clarity. Profumum takes that blurred-clarity contrast a leap further. Here, a big fuzzy sandalwood is used to cloud the pristine blue sky.
Now, they could have stopped here and it would have been a perfect velvet-soft floral woody. Feminine and perhaps a bit shy. But no, to make things complicated they added this soapy-fizzy oakmoss (a substitute I suppose). This - together with a dry spicy note and some musks - does not only add a mind-twisting complexity but also rings a "back to the eighties" bell. Retro soapy-fougère vibes lurk from behind the fluffy sandalwood clouds. The composition is properly balanced, though, so that it does not go beyond those gentle reminders and keeps enough room for its softer side.
This retro touch as well as this added complexity - all come quite unexpectedly. A nice surprise, but it also drags the whole into the "acquired taste" territory. I would have settled for a soft floral woody personally. So I'm headed back to Eau de Magnolia.
Just like Eau de Magnolia, Eccelso is built around a crystal clear bergamot-magnolia accord. The Malle uses a shy oakmoss to break the accord's clarity. Profumum takes that blurred-clarity contrast a leap further. Here, a big fuzzy sandalwood is used to cloud the pristine blue sky.
Now, they could have stopped here and it would have been a perfect velvet-soft floral woody. Feminine and perhaps a bit shy. But no, to make things complicated they added this soapy-fizzy oakmoss (a substitute I suppose). This - together with a dry spicy note and some musks - does not only add a mind-twisting complexity but also rings a "back to the eighties" bell. Retro soapy-fougère vibes lurk from behind the fluffy sandalwood clouds. The composition is properly balanced, though, so that it does not go beyond those gentle reminders and keeps enough room for its softer side.
This retro touch as well as this added complexity - all come quite unexpectedly. A nice surprise, but it also drags the whole into the "acquired taste" territory. I would have settled for a soft floral woody personally. So I'm headed back to Eau de Magnolia.