08/31/2018
DasguteLeben
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DasguteLeben
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Heart of Fougère
On the one hand, the most classic Fougère, so very old school that one might not believe it is a current natural perfume, especially as the durability is phenomenal. The powerful moss notes (up yours, IFRA! ), lavender, cistus rose, vetiver, frankincense and tonka coumarin create an intense, wafting wall of green, hay, dry and herbaceous mist - really impressive. In the middle of this jungle Dr. Livingston sits in a hipster outfit and sips an espresso. This perfectly fitting portion of zeitgeist saves the fragrance from an irony-free retroness despite its genius and makes it a Fougère sister in the spirit of neoclassical chypres like Ma'ai from Bogue - truly impressive. Although I have now brought the jungle into play myself, the Conrad association of the title is actually not coherent for me: this is no Or Black (a really dark Fougère), no place of disinhibited ferocity like Conrad's colonialism-saturated African phantasmagoria, but rather what Gentleman Joseph C. would have worn to the flawless suit in the early twentieth century. But perhaps that says something about the state of our synthesized fragrance culture, in which Axe's soup is "male," cotton candy perfume "sexy," and every touch of physicality is "ihhbääh. Be that as it may: Heart of Darkness, no; Heart of Fougère: yes - really impressive!
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