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M for Moriander?
Mr. Wuchsa calls for fifteen euros for a sample of "M". At Jovoy in Paris, I simply estimated that about 2 ml were filled for lukewarm. And I hadn't even asked for the initiative. I had been offered a sample of a backbencher Kurkdjian (Rêve en Cuir by Indult; see there, also more about Jovoy) and then the question arose whether there was anything else I could do. Oh, well, before I get hit... how about "M"? No problem. I hadn't bought anything, by the way. Great Service.
To the fragrance: Very mild citrus fruit, hardly noticeable. A little scratch à la rosewood, on the threshold to eugenol. A hint of smoked ham, patchouli roughness, a hint of vanilla sweetness. Cinnamon fits when you know it. Leather from the patchouli corner, but especially from the Labdanum corner. A little warm-seasoned and of old-fashioned solidity. To what extent this actually goes together with this "Alter-Aston-Martin-Leder"-talk (for such crap points should actually be deducted), I do not know of course.
Soon the citrusiness penetrates again more strongly, in addition something spicy. Lemongrass? And coriander green. I think a good piece of fresh vetiver is also involved. Yeah, let's forget the lemongrass for his sake. But not the coriander. Everything dims off from a softening, ambery sweetness, which might equally go back to Labdanum. All in all this seems very familiar to me, I just can't remember where it came from.
Coriander (meanwhile including seeds) and vetiver become the predominant impression of the first hours. Labdanum is present, but too quiet to set a possibly even animal counterpole. It's a little creamy. Besides there is a scratchy accent, other spices come to the fore: perhaps carnation or pimento; cinnamon is now clearer. And the Rosenholz/Rosengeranien idea is by no means out of the race. The typical floral however is little more than a swab.
Around midday, the leather is fed from a patchouli-Labdanum spring. This is quite sweet natural, yet undoubtedly leathery. Very well done, just splashing around somehow. So I have my head free to think about whether - spinning on the Aston Martin stuff - the "M" should have anything to do with Mr. Bond's boss. Alternatively Moriander, Metiver, Mabdanum or Manille could be considered. Or ziMt. for the rest of the day, they all drift along in varying proportions of weight, gradually drifting further towards sweetness. Matchouli cockroach in the underground I still imagine.
Conclusion: Noble and undeniably highly becoming for gentlepeople. Unfortunately the finger snap effect fell victim to the whole solidity. In my view, "M" does not stand out sufficiently clearly from other candidates to justify such an ambitious price.