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Souk
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Notes01/30/2019
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Feel the Wrath of the Broadsword of Tonka-Zukka!
The assumption already expressed in my statement that this is a variation of the "Héritage" theme adapted to the modern taste of fragrance was not invalidated even after some further test runs. On the contrary, the impression has intensified. More precisely: It seems as if the aim was to reproduce the basic scent impression of the Guerlain classic with as few components and a broad brushstroke as possible, so that the olfactory centre of the user simply has less work to understand what is being offered.
Now one could say that in 2016 a company had to "fortitude" (i.e. "strength" in the sense of "steadfastness") in order to recreate and bring to market a somewhat outmoded composition such as "Héritage", especially as the provocatively short list of scores seems very proud and convinced by its own imaginative power ("We have a clear vision and take only the bare essentials!") - as does the bottle, which at the same time appears aristocratic and archaic and defenceless! However, when looking at the current bestseller lists, the perfumer seems to have lost his steadfastness, so that he took the precaution of pulling out the proven vanilla tonka sugar syrup broadsword to neuter the listed tobacco and patchouli content. And so it is this vanilla sweetness keeping everything in check that separates "Fortitude" from "Héritage" by a clear trench (as well as the absence of the coriander note, which I always assumed constituted the character of "Héritages", but there are probably countless possible workarounds; what do I know as a layman...).
That sounds like a rip now, but it's not a rip. I'm not always in the condition for Guerlain's cryptic-complex exploits. Some days are just too prosaic for that. And Fortitude smells good yes.
PS: "Héritage" minus coriander plus vanilla... Hmm, what's that supposed to give a rough estimate of the thumb, gentlemen? That's right, I did. In this respect, this fragrance is by no means a pure men's fragrance, but also something for the lady who would like to have another variation from the wide cosmos of the "Shalimar" cousins in her closet.
Now one could say that in 2016 a company had to "fortitude" (i.e. "strength" in the sense of "steadfastness") in order to recreate and bring to market a somewhat outmoded composition such as "Héritage", especially as the provocatively short list of scores seems very proud and convinced by its own imaginative power ("We have a clear vision and take only the bare essentials!") - as does the bottle, which at the same time appears aristocratic and archaic and defenceless! However, when looking at the current bestseller lists, the perfumer seems to have lost his steadfastness, so that he took the precaution of pulling out the proven vanilla tonka sugar syrup broadsword to neuter the listed tobacco and patchouli content. And so it is this vanilla sweetness keeping everything in check that separates "Fortitude" from "Héritage" by a clear trench (as well as the absence of the coriander note, which I always assumed constituted the character of "Héritages", but there are probably countless possible workarounds; what do I know as a layman...).
That sounds like a rip now, but it's not a rip. I'm not always in the condition for Guerlain's cryptic-complex exploits. Some days are just too prosaic for that. And Fortitude smells good yes.
PS: "Héritage" minus coriander plus vanilla... Hmm, what's that supposed to give a rough estimate of the thumb, gentlemen? That's right, I did. In this respect, this fragrance is by no means a pure men's fragrance, but also something for the lady who would like to have another variation from the wide cosmos of the "Shalimar" cousins in her closet.
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