First things first, of all the olfactory families, accords, or concepts existing in the world of perfumery, chypre doesn't tickle my fancy. Don't get me wrong, I know it's the most beautiful, sophisticated, and lesser-known fragrance family, and it's not that I despise it, it just isn't one of my olfactory tastes, to the point that on some occasions, seasons, and moods, it bothers me. In past years, any scents evocative of the chypre family intrigued me; there was no emotional relationship. I presume it's a matter of attraction-repulsion between chypre's accord and my sense of smell. For this reason, in my collection, there are almost no chypre colognes, neither modern nor old-school styled. Well, a very few fragrances that fall into such a family, and I can count on one hand, scilicet Chanel Pour Monsieur, Pour Homme Van Cleef & Arpels, Versace L'Homme, Halston Z-14, and 1881 pour Homme Cerruti.
Notwithstanding, when I saw Capucci Pour Homme on the shelf, with a retail price of 13 euro for a 100ml or 3/4oz, I could not resist and buy it instantly. A couple of spritz on my skin revealed a classic cologne, chic, in the Italian old-style, absolutely chypre in the D.N.A. since the very first note, warm and dry at the same time, and perhaps not everyone will appreciate it for what it is. For sure, it is an old-school cologne for men, for daddies like I am, not for boys or teens. I reckon this is a clear example of the barbershop fragrance: elegant, stylish, and charming. The perfume leaves behind a beautiful track, slightly nostalgic, with a certain Parisian chic air that would have been familiar to the characters of Jackie Onassis, Grace Kelly, and of course, the Duke and Duchess of Windsor.
Capucci Pour Homme commences with a blast of bitter and tart citrus notes. The lemon and lime peels are what I get most, consciously blended with a minty accord resulting from aniseed and basil leaves. It is one of the best soapy and colonial opening I have ever smelt. It is incredibly fresh and sour, and zesty fruit peels are the first notes that punch my face. It feels very natural, like a real old fashioned cologne. As soon as the sourness tones down, powdery bergamot shamefully announces itself. I like the lime and basil accord that lasts through the dry down. If you are fond of classic pillars, you will recognize in the opening a connection to Armani Pour Homme, Acqua di Parma Original Colonia, and Dior Eau Sauvage.
The top zestiness blends flawlessly with the blossoming floral-chypre heart, hot jasmine, and cyclamen accord remarkably balance the chypre accord. The Indian bay's presence adds a hint of earthy herbal, but I can smell some hearty oakmoss from the base, and, like all good chypres, it resonates a "warmth" from my skin a type of warmth that I can only smell in a well-made chypre. And believe me or not, this old gentleman is undoubtedly a good one. There is also a powderiness in it, which brings it, once more, sort of close to Chanel Pour Monsieur.
The dry down is slightly different from the listed notes. I don't get the tobacco and leather, and if there, then they are very feeble. Still, the oakmoss adds greenness and mossiness to the structure. The base is all too musky, slightly woody, and herbal. The oakmoss aroma is heavy and oriental-like at first, becoming very refined when dried, reminiscent of bark, seashore, and foliage. It imparts a wet forest floor aroma, resulting in naturalness and rich earthy, damp.
Projection and sillage are intimate, Capicci Pour Homme is not the cologne that announces you. However, it's a great everyday fragrance, mainly for evenings on balmy nights, it's classy without being pretentious, and it lasts for over seven on my wrists and chest. If you're a fan of classic men's fragrances, chypres, citrus fragrances, citrus chypres, or all of the above, you need to try Capucci Pour Homme. It is a hidden gem. It's 100% old-school green chypre and is not modern sporty citrus or aquatic fragrance whatsoever.
The contrast between the bitter citrus and earthy notes creates a pure chypre fragrance. I classify this as a spring and summer daytime scent, yet being a well-constructed chypre, it rocks you in the evenings of spring, summer, and even fall. You know what? Now that I have got a full bottle, I have a different take on this scent. I like it even more than I did before.