Œillères 2017

Œillères by Roberto Greco
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8.2 / 1068 Ratings
Œillères is a popular limited perfume by Roberto Greco for women and men and was released in 2017. The scent is spicy-green. The longevity is above-average. It is still available to purchase. Pronunciation Limited Edition
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Fragrance Notes

Top Notes Top NotesEucalyptusEucalyptus
LavenderLavender
Camomile absoluteCamomile absolute
BroomBroom
Heart Notes Heart NotesHay absoluteHay absolute
PollenPollen
MushroomsMushrooms
FrankincenseFrankincense
CuminCumin
Base Notes Base NotesStyraxStyrax
MuskMusk

Ratings

Scent

8.268 Ratings

Longevity

8.761 Ratings

Sillage

7.860 Ratings

Bottle

8.145 Ratings

Value for money

6.612 Ratings
Submitted by Rivegauche, last update on 17.01.2022.

Interesting Facts

The photographer Roberto Greco had the fragrance made on the occasion of his photo series of the same name. 519 pieces have been made.
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Reviews

9
Scent
7
Longevity
Intersport
Translated Show originalShow translation
Intersport
Intersport
Top Review    11  
Œil, Œillères
Authors perfumery as a subject for olfactory amateur forensics. If this is, as in the case of the despite almost 20 years of existence, such a compact, manageable and especially also diversified work as that of Marc Antoine Corticchiato, so much the better. The perfumer, who up to now has kept himself sympathetically restrained as far as the number of releases is concerned (many put out as many in a year as he does within a decade), is therefore already ideally suited for such boldness.

Traces, tracks, processual thinking, at least speculatively pick up. The visible or noticeable this process, connections from one to the next or even temporally again times in the opposite direction. To stay with the proverbial author of this perfumery, also deciphering handwriting and codes. In-house, at Parfum d'Empire once the citrus-chypre base led from Tokyo to Azemour, a spirit note connects more recent releases, and also Œillères, developed by Corticchiato for the photographer Roberto Greco (who has often staged perfume bottles for glossy magazines and websites), opens a round of internal and more extensive references.

Œillères, can be considered an evolution of the hay note that was already central to Tabac Tabou (2015). The daffodils are now completely faded, the immortelle and tobacco leaf crumbs pulverized by the heat, the honey - which I see as a refinement of the nectar base from Désarmant (2013) - is reduced to a crystalline something. This decay, or rather composting, and ephemerality is what Œillères is supposed to be about, despite all the virile whirliness in details, now leaves prominent space for the hay absolute, framed in a host of Corticchiato's ingredients: Chamomile, lavender, cumin and especially styrax are present, sometimes discreetly perceptible and sometimes cleverly interwoven. Small mushrooms only briefly bring to mind Oriza's insane Chypre Mousse - which is not too far away in spirit. Fitting in this context, exotic things like broom, lime and heliotropin contribute their part, and add up to a superb atmosphere in the heat of bygone days, weeks or even more becomes perceptible.

With this multi-dimensional drydown: Œillères is more classic perfume than it initially lets on, especially in the drydown. Comme des Garçons wonderfully dry-bulky Tea (2000) from the Leaves series is close to Œillères. In an interview on the French Nez site, Greco mentions, in addition to descriptor consensus, perfumes he put up for discussion during development: Grey Flannel, Kouros, Cuir Mauresque, Knize 10: as a whole this makes sense, and although Œillères resembles none of these at first, in such a context I would have rather suggested one of Eduard Fléchier's Italian commissions. Not Etro's Gomma (1989), arguably the most herbaceous, Mediterranean and playful interpretation of the Knize leather note, but Vendetta pour Homme (1991), Fléchier's distinct Styrax / Benzoin composition for Valentino. Œillères' swathes of styrax, dry cumin, herbs and grasses are not far away. As with the work for La Parfumerie Moderne, Œillères is another candidate for Corticchiato's more perfume-heavy projects - the more experimental stuff is currently appearing in-house at d'Empire. And, sticking with olfactory forensics - the distinct cumin/benzoin combination was spun on almost simultaneously by Lutens/Sheldrake with L'Innomnable (2019), albeit succulently more opulent. Less arte povera. The question remains open for now - was there a new Cumin distillate in 2017/18, or a coincidence that, with the conifer resin consensus from Wazamba and Fille en Anguilles tested before in 2009?

Despite all the initial vehemence, Œillères quiets down surprisingly quickly, with less persistence than the opening suggests. On fabric (wool sweater, 2 ply) let the remains the next day an almost holographic abstraction of the aforementioned leather / Styrax Duefte earlier days arise, and could so also be suitable for Derby players, Bel Ami Cocktail Afficinados or Cuir Ottoman / X fetishists. And finally to be concrete, as Bloodxclat aptly suggested, hervorranged at high temperatures.
6 Replies
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Pricing
DrB1414

4 Reviews
DrB1414
DrB1414
   1  
Truly an anti-floral perfume, but in very floral way.
Oeilleres is very intriguing, complex, and unique. It starts very herbal and aromatic. I can detect the chamomile note strongly in the beginning, a note and scent that I really like. I like the way the cumin plays in the composition, together with the musk. As it develops into the heart and base, it becomes richer, thicker, almost leathery, mossy. Has a nice balance of sweet and salty. Herbaceous and resinous. It begins very dry herbal and finishes with a resinous-musky-leathery base. I can definitely see why it is labeled an anti-floral. You can almost see it as a floral, but it is not. I see the floral elements like being very dry, burnt, left to dehydrate in the sun. It makes me think of my summer holidays spent in the countryside. Enjoyed this one a lot.
EnnaNirtac
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EnnaNirtac
EnnaNirtac
   10  
Roberto Greco Œillères Perfume
It is wonderful! It is quite suitable for everyday use, especially now that we are so much after hugs and human closeness. No other perfume comes so close and human to me. Great! Impossibly warm, natural, powerful and affirming, a source of confidence, I just feel clearer, more natural, more sensual, closer with this fragrance than without. GRANDIOS!
4 Replies
8
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8
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8
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9
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Drseid

809 Reviews
Drseid
Drseid
Helpful Review    2  
The Anti-flower, Anti-mainstream Release...
Oeilleres opens with a camphoraceous eucalyptus underpinned by aromatic lavender before moving to its heart. As the composition enters its early heart, the eucalyptus remains, now joined by significant natural smelling cumin spice and a strong, almost mossy olive-oil accord supported by slightly herbaceous chamomile. During the late dry-down, the olive oil accord recedes then disappears, as does the cumin spice, unveiling a woody, leathery styrax base note, with hints of supporting soft musk through the finish. Projection is excellent, as is longevity at around 11-12 hours on skin.

Oeilleres is a tough composition to describe. There are a lot of floral components, but the composition does not smell floral at all. In truth the primary standouts begin with cumin spice that thankfully does not present itself like body odor as in many other compositions, instead coming off quite natural smelling, like one might expect to find in a spice cabinet. Another is what can best be described as an "olive oil" accord, quite similar to the one frequently found in most of the early O'driu releases by Angelo Orazio Pregoni. There is a moss-like characteristic that melds with the olive oil accord, but this is not oakmoss instead presenting closer to the smell of tree moss or maybe a synthetic version of it. Finally, the styrax (benzoin) does not present itself as balsamic and floral as it frequently does, but rather as almost a cedar wood and leather hybrid undertone that works quite well during the late dry-down. While describing Oeilleres is difficult, deciding whether the end result works is much easier, and the answer is definitely "yes." I doubt this is a composition one would reach for often, but outside of the extremely limited edition (and availability) O'driu releases you would be hard-pressed to find anything on the market similar. The bottom line is that while the $215 per 50ml bottle Oeilleres is a bit of an oddball offering that will not garner mainstream attention, the "very good" to "excellent" 3.5 to 4 stars out of 5 rated release will surely appeal to and is recommended to perfume enthusiasts who dig Odriu's early offerings and/or find their tastes bent to the more inventive side of the spectrum.
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Baltazar

1 Review
Baltazar
Baltazar
   2  
Amazing Art
What I think is that you have made a great perfume, not so conceptual like in the style of comme de garcons, but rather a unique combination that reminds me of Bandit and Salvador Dali PH. In the base the ingredients bring you into an introverted world, there is mysticism and hermitage without they're stepping on. You're just one step above all the rest.no smiles, no joy, no balloons, only you watching the world under you...great balanced aroma,not for every day and more importantly, not for everyone.Great job!!! Respect!!!
Arnefag

1 Review
Arnefag
Arnefag
Helpful Review    3  
Bravo!
The expression of "anti-flower" really makes sense here as the scent is floral without representing a specific type of flower. Instead it's the representation of the whole spectrum of a flower; earth, growth, blossom, withering and decay.

This turns Oeilleres int a highly conceptual and philosophical piece of art; a thought provoking and associative fragrance that portrays the fragile being of a flower in the perspective of our own human flesh.

Oeilleres starts off with a herbal blast of chamomile, a touch of eucalyptus and a distant lavender. Quickly it transforms by letting hay and cumin notes take centre stage, but it never turns sweaty, thanks to the earthy contributions of the mushroom and pollen notes.

Eventually a mighty styrax takes over, lending a leathery aspect to the composition.

All the way through the drydown Oeilleres transforms and morphs with my skin, all while it stays true to it's conceptual foundation. It keeps conveying its story, expressing something about humanity, which is what I love about this level of perfumery. I can't compare it to anything, it takes its own sovereign position in the span between classics a la Caron (Narcisse Noir and Fleurs de Rocaille come to mind) and avant-garde perfume art.

Superbly done, Roberto Greco and Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, BRAVO!
8.5
Scent
8
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7
Sillage
Mujo

48 Reviews
Mujo
Mujo
Helpful Review    3  
Unique fragrance
First of all thank you Roberto for sending me a sample of Oeillères. Of course curious as I am I had to seek out more info and I learned that the perfume Oeillères was part of an Art Project by Roberto.

Also had to look up what the word Oeillères actually means. As I found out oeillères are blinders worn by horses.

Now of to the fragrance. The first spray of Oeillères is a very herbal blast. I cannot really determine what it is exactly, But it's fresh and warm at the same time and very natural and animalic. Also very different from anything I smelled before, but at the same time Oeillères definitely has the Marc-Antoine Corticchiato signature. The first time I sprayed Oeillères the opening was too overwhelming, but after testing several time I must say I especially like the opening.

After the first blast Oeillères slowly transforms into a warm and easier to wear fragrance. Nothing sharp, but very balanced and refined. Oeillères smells green like fresh herbs and with my nose glued to my wrist I can definitely smell the fresh chamomile. (I might be focussed on it, because I used to pick wild chamomile when I was a kid. My mother boiled it into a brew for my older sister so she could rinse her white hair.) The chamomile is nicely blended with other herbal notes creating a lovely fragrance, although unisex I feel it's leaning more towards masculine. Oeillères also has a slight barbershop smell to it, at least the middle part does.

In the drydown the scent mellows into a warm scent and eases the animalic qualities (but is still slightly present) and it just smells nice, warm and inviting. This stage is definitely unisex. Projection is close to the skin. Very unique fragrance.
10
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9
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8
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6
Bottle
MiaSma

6 Reviews
MiaSma
MiaSma
Helpful Review    3  
summoning the ghost of Gaia
I was lucky enough to receive a sample of this creation recently.As I wasn't aware of its existence, I intentionally didn't do any research for it, to refrain myself from having any preconceptions prior to sampling it.
Upon application , I experienced a deja-vu notion of sowing/harvesting of the land.
A feeling of running full of sweat on a plantation's damp soil, plant juices(slight chlorophyll aroma), smelling a bunch of plucked field wild flowers with a prominent freshly cut chamomiles (not the dried one in tea bags) and yes pollen filling the air. It is a quite heavy statement fragrance with an unusual spin that will turn heads...either towards or away from the wearer. I am, personally, very very pleased with this perfume. Being quite dense, yet not suffocating, at various times there was aroma-molecule that I couldn't put my finger on. Later on, I was pretty much sure that I smelled immortelle flower, that kept appearing and disappearing.Lastly, during the dry down I think I detected some vetyver, with fresh clean intimate body smell.
After all this time I decided to review this sample and also look its public aroma profile.Boy was I blown away. Very intricate choice of notes, hence the unique final product.Although I am familiar with all the notes listed I wasn't able to detect almost half of them.But the other half were definitely present.
Now for my final verdict, "Oeilleres" has a primal DNA that, to me, represents life at its beginning or final stage, depending where one stands.Even then it has some elements that brighten, dare i say sparkle, the strife. It's projection is inescapable and it's longevity mammoth.I also read that its production is limited to 519 bottles, which explains it's dear price for the 50ml bottles.

Statements

RivegaucheRivegauche 3 years ago
8
Scent
9
Longevity
8
Sillage
8
Bottle
Dry flowers in summery heat, dominated by the signature of Corticchiato: Leather, animals & resins. Creative, powerful & good!
ZagoZago 4 years ago
10
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10
Longevity
10
Sillage
10
Bottle
Based on a half-green, half-animalic anti-flower.
« Anti » because it echoes the flowers without referring to any one in particular.
3 Replies

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Ich war in der Ausstellung :-)
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