Fougère L'Aube 2019

Fougère L'Aube by Rogue
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7.8 / 1054 Ratings
Fougère L'Aube is a popular perfume by Rogue for men and was released in 2019. The scent is green-fougère. It is still available to purchase.
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Perfumer & Creative Guidance

Manuel Cross (Brand Owner, Perfume maker)

Fragrance Notes

Lavender absoluteLavender absolute
BergamotBergamot
PetitgrainPetitgrain
GalbanumGalbanum
GeraniumGeranium
HayHay
Moroccan rose absoluteMoroccan rose absolute
AmberAmber
CamphorCamphor
Indian sandalwoodIndian sandalwood
Oakmoss absoluteOakmoss absolute
MuskMusk
CostusCostus

Ratings

Scent

7.854 Ratings

Longevity

7.943 Ratings

Sillage

7.145 Ratings

Bottle

7.336 Ratings
Submitted by Laurel, last update on 07.10.2021.
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Reviews

5
Scent
7
Sillage
FvSpee
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FvSpee
FvSpee
Top Review    35  
Sketch at dawn
I was supposed to like Fougère L'Aube. The bottle, label and color of the fragrance (judging by the photo) are all very pleasing to me. The name is pretty. I like cracking fougères. I have a weakness for small tinkering brands. Yatagan, Floyd, Killer Bee and Profumo gave 8 or more. I had already speculated that the fragrance might fill the void that will arise when I (soon) have used up the last remnant of my beloved and coldly adjusted clay fougères.

Unfortunately, after I finally got my hands on a sample of the not easily obtainable scent (thanks to the donor), it turned out differently: Especially in the first one or two hours I only want to run away. The swaths of camphor are so biting and quasi-synthetically stinging that I wonder if they are not rather swaths of explosive ordnance. The green and earthy chords come to me as wet, wet notes of musty, damp foliage in the transition to composting. Oily-resinous-sticky impressions, not in the sense of fresh spicy tree resin (amber in statu nascendi), but in the sense of clearer varieties, do not make it better.

In the further process the scent relaxes and my tension headache, which is clearly exacerbated by the scent. Fougère L'Aube becomes milder, rounder, almost a little sweet and camomile-soft. It is then approximately to be addressed as a beautiful scent, but not as the tart Fougère I had expected.

The word 'l'Aube is likely to have three main meanings in French: The shovel (of a paddle steamer or similar), the alb (the white robe of a catholic priest) and the dawn. The latter was certainly meant here to evoke the humid freshness of this time of day. I also find dawn apt, but rather because of the word "horror" and because I feel like firing dueling pistols at this scent in the early morning.
29 Replies
7.5
Scent
7
Longevity
6
Sillage
7
Bottle
Drseid

797 Reviews
Drseid
Drseid
   2  
Preserving The Classic Aromatic Fougere...
Fougere L'Aube opens with a tinge of slightly sharp bergamot citrus, with a moderately sweet honeyed-green petitgrain and galbanum tandem in support before transitioning to its heart. As the composition enters its early heart a fine aromatic lavender joins sharp, rosy-green geranium with a combination of the remaining green galbanum, hay-like coumarin and oakmoss from the base in support. During the late dry-down the composition stays relatively linear as the overall fern-like accord from the heart remains through the finish, with the green aspect gradually receding to unveil supporting relatively sweet, subtle sandalwood detectable in the base. Projection is average, and longevity above average at 9-10 hours on skin.

Due to IFRA regulations, real aromatic fougeres (complete with bergamot, oakmoss and "hay-like" coumarin) are a dying breed if not near-extinct. Luckily we have artisanal perfume houses like Rouge Perfumery that refuse to comply with the ridiculous genre killing IFRA guidelines, reminding us what the "real deal" actually smells like and keeping the category alive, if not still on life support. Fougere L'Aube is a fine example of what an aromatic fougere should smell like. It has all the ingredients one would expect to create the classic "fern-like" accord while never (thankfully) straying into modern fougere territory. The mossy-green oakmoss and hay-like coumarin in this case are more subdued, letting the rosy-green geranium take center stage in the heart to drive the relatively linear development. In the end, Fougere L'Aube breaks no new ground, but perfumer Cross has the classic fougere structure down to a tee, coupling great skill with the use of high quality ingredients, making for a fine outing regardless. The bottom line is the $125 per 60 ml bottle Fougere L'Aube may not plow new ground, but is one of the final true examples of a real classically structured aromatic fougere, presented wholly intact and crafted with fine skill and polish by perfumer Cross, earning a "very good" to "excellent" 3.5 to 4 stars out of 5 rating and a solid recommendation to old school aromatic fougere lovers lamenting IFRA destruction of the genre.
8.5
Scent
9
Longevity
8
Sillage
Profumo
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Profumo
Profumo
Top Review    25  
For fans of Fougère's old style a real manna!
Fougère l'Aube' is Manuel Cross' reminiscence of the old pre-war fougère fragrances, of which, with a few exceptions, none have survived: the British 'English Fern' comes to mind, as does 'Wild Fern', and the more powdery French variants: 'Pour un Homme de Caron' and 'Mouchoir de Monsieur'. The good old 'Zizanie' has unfortunately disappeared in the meantime as well as the even older 'Fougère Royale'.
But there are countless reinterpretations - Fougère is in again!

One might think that with the advent of the hipsters, not only the full beard has experienced its revival, but also the fragrance that once filled the old barbershops, and today their modern-day counterparts in the 'in' districts of Berlin and Frankfurt: shaving foam, sandalwood jars, powder and a citric after-shave that was gently slapped against the freshly - of course with a razor - shaved cheeks.
The old Fougères tried to imitate this amalgam. Manuel Cross now recognizably ties in with this tradition, whereby he does not take the more French way, namely to emphasize the powdery accents, but the English way, which emphasizes more the herbaceous, woody facets. Lavender, the pivotal point of a fougere, usually smells a little stiffer and more sharp-edged in the Anglo-Saxon fragrance concept, while in Paris and Grasse, besides nutty-powdery coumarin, it was also often given the odd animal-erotic twist.

Being part of the British tradition, 'Fougère l'Aube' is far from the lascivious frivolity of a 'Jicky' - there is no civet far and wide. Only a tiny bit of costus slumbering in the background gives the fragrance a shy eroticism. But lavender, galbanum, geranium, bitter-peel citrus notes and lots of oakmoss are dominant. Especially the combination of lavender and galbanum characterizes this fragrance and makes it a representative of a rare species, the green 'Fougères' This bitter-herbal liaison is beautifully suffused with the rosy freshness of geranium and the effervescence of citrus notes. They really lighten up the fragrance: barbershop, and the morning sun shines brightly outside! Manuel Cross has bedded this high-contrast kaleidoscope on a powerful dose of uncastrated oakmoss, which can develop its entire moist, mossy-bitter-ink-like fragrance spectrum in full glory. It is accentuated by a little dusty-dry hay, a hint of camphor, which gives this scent a little twist into the medical world, and a - as already mentioned - shy portion of animalism.
All the aromas are blended in the typical rogue manner: a little rough and here and there a little rough, but that's how 'Fougère l'Aube' keeps its charm as a nice, somewhat chubby nature boy - more like jeans and full beard than pantalon and twirled moustache.

Speaking of 'Moustache': the old Edmond and Therese Roudnitska fragrance could have been a source of inspiration for 'Fougère l'Aube', which lacks galbanum. Otherwise I find them quite similar.
With the addition of galbanum, Manuel Cross also builds a kind of bridge to the green-aromatic scents of the 70/80s: to 'Alliage' and 'Devin', 'Halston 1-12' and 'Eau de Campagne' - green chypre, but, as already mentioned, green 'Fougères' are rare. There are plenty of aromatic fougères, not to mention maritime and ozone and recently woody-ambered ones.
But green, and not chypre?
The good, old 'Sir-Irish Moss' is still around: green-spicy and definitely better than its reputation, but the rogue scent doesn't seem so old-fashioned after all.
Really modern but also not. But it is definitely a beautiful new interpretation of an ancient fragrance concept.

For fragrance enthusiasts with a penchant for reminiscences of the good old days, 'Fougère l'Aube' is a true manna!
10 Replies
9
Scent
10
Longevity
8
Sillage
9
Bottle
Berlinbreeze
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Berlinbreeze
Berlinbreeze
   5  
Golden dewdrops sparkle upon lush green ferns
"Golden dewdrops sparkle upon lush green ferns. Fougere L'Aube is cool and fresh, like the brisk air that surrounds the glow of the morning sun."

This is how perfumer Manuel Cross describes his 2019 fragrance Fougère L'Aube. The "Dawn by the fern" begins strongly accentuated with lavender, unmistakably accompanied by bright, citric notes. For me a nice, but also intensive start. The oak moss it contains is again not IFRA-compliant; Cross remains true to its motto "Bureaucracy Destroys Art! The rose again remains hidden on my skin, not so the sandalwood. All in all, it was a pleasure for me for many hours, with initial high projection power. Even if "Mousse Illuminée" remains my favourite from California so far, I'm sure that this fougère scent will always get on your skin! The decision to buy came from a sample, I am looking forward to this further gem in my collection
8
Scent
5
Longevity
7
Sillage
8
Bottle
Jcelello

3 Reviews
Jcelello
Jcelello
   2  
Not novel, but brilliant
This smells a fair deal like Green Irish Tweed to my nose. Let’s get that out of the way. It is way better smelling, lasts longer, and has a much better evaluation. I have no problem having both in my collection, and abhor redundancies. Rogue Perfumery is my current obsession. Even if I haven’t loved every fragrance from the house, I respect them all immensely. This is one of my favorites from the collection. Manuel Cross is a major talent.
1 Replies

Statements

BoBoChampBoBoChamp 1 month ago
8.5
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
Initially uplifting and citric spicy bitter/green, a rather dry and clean spicy-green Fougère, balanced by a smooth, musky earthy-woody base
RisingChaosRisingChaos 3 months ago
7
Scent
5
Longevity
5
Sillage
Opens dry, sharp green and aromatic as a minty geranium, camphor, and light rose come in. Sharp, crisp, dry forest. Camphorous ELDO YOSLY.
MrLimuzinMrLimuzin 6 months ago
Creed Green Irish Tweed ¯ _(ツ)_/¯
BlackfleeceBlackfleece 1 year ago
Fougère L'Aube offers high-quality and classic style. Unfortunately, its prominent geranium note just doesn’t work for me.

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