40 Rogue by Rogue Perfumery
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40 Rogue is a new perfume by Rogue Perfumery for women and men and was released in 2019. The scent is floral-spicy. It is still in production.

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Fragrance Notes

Citrus notes, Aldehydes, Fruity notes, Basil, Tarragon, Carnation, Rose, Narcissus, Oakmoss, Musk

Ratings

Scent

6.6 (10 Ratings)

Longevity

7.4 (7 Ratings)

Sillage

6.9 (7 Ratings)

Bottle

7.0 (7 Ratings)
Submitted by Epimedes, last update on 30.06.2020.
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Reviews

4.5
Scent
4
Longevity
4
Sillage
7
Bottle
Drseid

738 Reviews
Drseid
Drseid
   0  
Should 40 Love Be Resurrected?...
40 Rogue opens with an odd, dark narcissus floral and rotting orange fruit led accord with underlying green oakmoss before transitioning to its heart. As the composition enters its early heart the rotting fruit gives way to an aldehydes spiked floral accord that is predominantly carnation with just a hint of rose. As time passes, the aldehydes become more and more assertive, as they meld with the carnation to become co-stars over time. During the late dry-down the aldehydes finally vacate to leave the remnants of the carnation to pair with only slightly animalic musk through the finish. Projection is below average, as is longevity at around 7 hours on skin.

This is a tough review to write... Not because the notes are particularly complex or difficult to pin down. No, it is tough because 40 Rogue is supposed to be a resurrection attempt of the long since discontinued 40 Love pour Homme by Jean Desprez. Not having sniffed 40 Love it is difficult to comment on whether the resurrection attempt is successful from a replication perspective. On this, I can only say that the aldehydic carnation accord is quite recognizable to a similar accord in many Desprez compositions I *have* sniffed. So maybe 40 Rogue succeeds in its attempt? Having said that, while potentially succeeding to resurrect 40 Love, if it smelled like this stuff, what a stinker it must have been! The open is completely off-putting, with its very bizarre mixture of narcotic florals and rotting fruit. While the open is horrific, the aldehydic carnation development which is substantially more appealing and near-surely on point to the original still is not much of a lure, nor is the musky late dry-down. Add in some relatively poor performance metrics and from a pure smell perspective 40 Rogue flops and is the least appealing offering from the house to the nose of this writer. The bottom line is the $125 per 60 ml 40 Rogue may be successful in its attempt to resurrect 40 Love, but if 40 Love smells like this "below average" 2 to 2.5 stars out of 5 rated mini-stinker, I would think it better off left dead, yielding an avoid recommendation to everyone except fans of 40 Love.
9
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
8
Bottle
Maggy4u

75 Reviews
Maggy4u
Maggy4u
   0  
Tribute, No. 1.
40 Rogue is not Alibaba and the 40 rogues. 40 Rogue is a tribute to 40 Love pour Homme by Jean Desprez, a fragrance that was released short after WW2, in 1947. A holy grail - not only of perfume history. Manuel had a vintage sample analyzed in order to at least guess the mixing ratios as a starting position.

Over time, decayed ingredients were supplemented with their original ingredients. Few had to be replaced with synthetics. As a result, 40 Rogue contains the resurrection of an icon.

The fragrance itself plays mainly with three floral components: carnation, roses and jasmine. These result in a slightly soapy aura in a fragrance that is reminiscent of spicy oak moss, musk and dark green herbs. It consciously touches the vintage barbershop and vintage masculinity.

This revived classic manages to last over 8 hours and is clearly more moderate in its animalism than its vintage heritage. Manuel wanted it exactly this way.

The homage even revives the vintage label of 40 Love in color in style. But it says Ressurection No. 1.

Looking at Manuel's skills, I hope for many more numbers (after no 1) and scents that he will bring back to life.

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by Maggy4u
by Maggy4u

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